New Look Bag Pattern NL6425

 

One of my many creative interests is making bags.  I made these two tote bags in early December, last year.  My hope was to make matching cosmetic bags.  This effort was two fold:  stash busting and Christmas gift giving.  Well I was successful in the stash busting, but I didn't finish the cosmetic bags to complete "my gift idea".  So, these two beauties are still taking up space in my sewing studio.  BTW- I still plan to give as gifts.

I used New Look NL6425, view A and B, with modifications.  New Look didn't give any view descriptions.  These are really basic lined tote bags.  There are no inside pockets.  

The instructions are the easiest.  Nothing confusing in them.  Great pattern for beginners to try.  I like that these totes came together quickly.  

The little tabs at the bottom were just a little challenging.  I wanted to get the placement just right for the pattern design of the fabric.  I think it good, not perfect.

From my stash are two remnant heavy cotton fabrics that I purchased at JoAnn's several years ago.  The straps are also from my stash.  They have been waiting to be used for over 15 years.  I am thrilled that I finally used them.

These totes do look like the illustration on the envelope with the exception of the straps.   I also, added a covered cardboard insert to help keep the shape of the bottom of the bag.

My changes were basic:  straps, strap loops, and bottom insert

These are very easy totes to make.  This pattern is a great template to make a variety of different bags:  appliques, patchwork, overlays, etc.  The possibilities are endless.

I recommend this pattern to all level sewists.

  

The Shirt Project Continuous with McCall's ME2052

It's been almost a decade since I started my little "Shirt Project".  And I've made a variety of button down or button up shirts since it all begin.  The process is similar from shirt to shirt; but occasionally, there is something new and interesting about it.

Today's installation of "The Shirt Project" is McCall's Know Me ME2052.  It is designed by Beaute' J'Adore.  The point of interest is the longer sleeve double cuff.  

Pattern Description:  Misses' button down shirt with collar and collar stand.  It has longer sleeves with double cuff.  The pants are a jean style cropped pants with inlay patches on the front and back legs. 

Pattern Sizing:  I used a size 16 with very small modifications

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, it did.  


Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were pretty easy to follow.  I did a few things different.  

• Burrito method for completing the back yoke.
• Finished the top stitching on the front before completing the hem.
• I followed my own method for placing the buttons and buttonholes making the sure a button was placed at the fullness of my bust.  Then continuing with the rest at an appropriate spacing.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I really like the double cuff and the oversize style.   

Fabric Used:  The fabric was purchased at the Discount Warehouse on west 21st in Chicago,  It has been in my stash for a year or so.  I bought is to make a shirt. I pre-washed and dried it shortly after I purchased it.  So, it was ready to sew when I pulled it from my stash.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I really didn't change much.  I just added my usual inch to the sleeve length.  NOTE:  these sleeves fall slightly over the hand.  

Next time:  I will interface half of each cuff to reduce thickness.  Also, I'll reduce the circumference of the collar.   

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes and yes.  I already have another cotton blend ready to cut and sew.  

Conclusion: I enjoyed making this shirt.  I also, recommend it to others.  It is an average sewing level shirt.  Great wardrobe builder with a unique twist.

Happy Sewing!

C

Tunic Delight - Vogue V1937 - Sandra Betzina

 

Pattern Description:  Misses' Dress and Tunic:  Pleat front A-line dress or tunic with back yoke.  View A has side seam pockets, contrast collar, cuffs and hem facings.  View B has lantern sleeves, contrast upper sleeves, yoke lining and hem facings, stitched to outside.  Purchased trim.

Pattern Sizing:  A - J corresponding measurements included.  I made view B (tunic), and I used sizes E and F.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, it did.  The sleeves were slightly longer on me than on the model.  It could be related to the sizing.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Yes, the instructions were easy to follow.  Sandra Betzina also included some tips for making bust and back adjustments along with some construction tips.  Note:  I still need to tack down the front pleat.  

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I have a few likes:  The lantern sleeves are beautiful; the trim around the neckline and below the yoke, and the contrast at the hem.

No real dislikes.

Fabric Used:  I used an Ankara fabric that I purchased at Djenne Collection on 95th Street.  The contrasting fabric is a basic cotton from JoAnn's. All fabrics pre-washed and dried.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I made a few small changes:

• I made bias tape for the trim instead a purchasing a fancy trim.  This first tunic was to test the pattern and the design for me.
• The sizing - I tweaked the fit between sizes E and F.
• I added 1/2" across the shoulder blades for prominent shoulder blades.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I think I will make the tunic again in one of the recommended fabrics.  I used a crisper fabric because I was going for more of a dashiki look.  With a crepe or silky fabric the tunic will hang closer to the body and have more drape than my version of it. I also want to make the dress.  And yes, I do recommend it to others.  I do suggest that you should transfer all markings especially on the front of the top.

Conclusion: I enjoyed making this tunic.  It was not difficult to sew and the instructions were good.  The finished top really looks great.  I hope to post pictures of me wearing it soon.

Thanks and Happy Sewing,

Cennetta

 

Summer Dress - Simplicity S9597 and S9552

Happy Friday everyone!

Summer officially arrived about a week ago,  But let me tell you, it has been summer in the Midwest since early June.  The midwestern heat accompanied by the humidity and high pollen is no joke.  We already had temps close to 100 degrees.

All my Chicagoland sewing sista's  know to prepare early before the heat.  This summer dress had been in the works before I actually selected the fabric.  Starting with all the fit adjustments, I like to be ready to just cut and sew.  Such was the case with this beauty. 

Before I get started with the pattern/project review, be warned that this is a lengthy blog post.  So I'm starting with a lot of pictures of the actual dress.  This was a fun project, and I will get a lot of wear out of it.  So, excuse me for the lengthy post. 

I used two patterns to make this summer dress,  Simplicity S9552 for the bodice and Simplicity S9597 for the skirt.

  

 

Pattern Description:  The top S9552-Lined crop top has princess seams, button front straps and separating invisible back zipper.  Wrap skirts have flounce variation, large side front pocket and button closure.  The Skirt S9597- Mimi G's misses' flared ankle length dress and jumpsuit with buttoned back bodice has a shaped midriff tier and cut out dipped back with elastic.  I used size 16 with a lot of modifications.

Pattern Sizing:  Both have size ranging from 6 to 24, which is great. 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  The silhouette was close to the Mimi G pattern. Some of the details were different.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Yes, they were easy to follow.  And of course, I had to create a few of my own as a result of my changes.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I really like the silhouette of Simplicity 9597.  The elasticize back drop waist was interesting.  I didn't like that it was so low and the back bodice band showed too much of the softer side of me. Lol.   As for Simplicity 9552, I actually bought this pattern first and had intended to make the views worn by the model.  The princess seam bodice made the FBA easy to do.  I wasn't interested in showing a lot of exposed midriff.  That was an easy fix.  Overall, I liked the majority of S9552 design lines with the exception of the short bodice.  And the S9597 it's the skirt that I like the most.

Fabric Used:  The fabric I used is a cotton shirting that I bought during the Frocktails shopping day from The Textile Warehouse on West 21st Street in Chicago.  It was only $3.95 per yard.  A good deal for a Robert Kauffman fabric.  I pre-washed, dried, and pressed it right away.  It has a crisp, dry hand and it breathes.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  As I said, I made quite a few changes.  Let's start with the bodice.  

 

FBA-

 First, I did a full bust adjustment and made a muslin to check the fit.  It was low, so I added about an inch to the top.  I also added about an inch to the side back to balance out the side front and back pieces.  Sometimes the FBA produces so much additional width, the side seam is not where it needs to be.  So, adding more width to the side back offers some room to adjust or take in both side front and back equally.  

 

NOTE:  I made the FBA without considering the length of the bodice of the MiMi G pattern.  Before I attached the S9552 bodice to the S9597 skirt, I cut it to my desired length, which was about two inches longer than the original  bodice of S9597,  I wanted to cover up that little roll on my side back. Lol

 

Back Closure of Bodice- 

I made the button loops for the back closure, same as S9597.  Because of the added length, I had to add two more loops and buttons.

 

Bodice Straps-

With the added inch at the top of the bodice, I didn't need the full length of the straps.  I didn't cut them off though.  I left the length as a design element.  Also, the buttons for the straps are different from the back closure buttons.  I didn't have enough in my stash, and I just did not want to go to the store for more buttons.  Maybe later.

 

Skirt-

I added a few inches to the bottom tier of the skirt.  The low back of the skirt gave me pause.  So I shorten the length of the elastic to draw it up closer my natural waistline.  This was done for comfort and modesty. Wink, wink.

 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I would recommend both patterns to others,  I plan to make the views the model is wearing for S9552. These are good summer outfit patterns for all level sewists.  Definitely, if you have a full bust, do a FBA for a better fit.  You may have to tweak it a little bit, but it is worth it.

Conclusion:   I enjoyed making this dress and will enjoy wearing it throughout the summer.  Throw on a nice hat and sandals, it’s a great vacation outfit.  Also, great for all the festivals around town. 

 Happy Sewing!

 

C

 

It's Almost Summer - Still Making Masks, Bonnets and Non-Surgical Caps

Thirteen weeks into the Covid-19 lock down and I'm still making masks.  Last month I added on bonnets and non-surgical caps.  I'm not complaining.  There is a need, and this is my way of helping.  I'm finding out that there are so many more family members, near and far, that are essential and front line workers than I knew of.  Again I'm happy to help. but I must strike a balance between helping and satisfying my personal sewing dreams.

What's interesting is that the production sewing of these protective goods has me thinking of all types of gift ideas and small sewing projects for my sewing students.  So, this experience has been beneficial in more than one way.

Today, I would like to share a few pictures and comments on the bonnets and caps that I made recently.  Folks want to be stylist in this pandemic.  So, many want matching head and face gear.

For the bonnets I used  Simplicity S1020.  Super easy pattern.  Three pieces, one size fits all.  You can easily adjust the elastic for a tighter fit.  This bonnet (made only four so far) sews up quickly.  Other uses:  Chef hat or sleeping bonnet.  These can be worn in general to protect/cover your hair.

Pictured above is Erica, dental assistant for Dr. Irvin B. Watkins.  Her dread locks are very long and this style of cap is perfect for her.  She also has a matching masks.

For the non-surgical caps I used Butterick B4946.  Again, a super easy pattern that sews up quickly, Great for beginners.  Three pieces, one size fits all.  You can use bias hem tape to finish the lower back edge of the cap.  Or you may create your own bias tape to finish it.  I did both.  But I prefer creating my own bias tape in the same fabric.  Also, at the crown I used to different methods to finish them.  For the first set (eight caps), I did something like  a French seam.  For the second set (13 caps) I pressed the seam allowance towards the hat section then I top-stitched it down.  The second method I like better.

Pictured below is Venus, CNA, at Oak Trace. She works at the same facility as my baby sister.  Venus loves the matching cap and mask set.

This month, I'm hoping to finish reviewing other projects that I finished in April and May.  Also, on my cutting table are a few jackets, dresses, and pants.  So as we get to our "new normal" I'll work more on my wardrobe additions and less on protective gear.

Stay safe.

Happy Sewing!

C