Zipped Pockets and Pant Leg - Sew Cargo Crazy - Tutorial

I wanted to post a little tutorial on how I made the zipped pockets for my second pair of cargo pants.  


Zipped Pockets -

It was so easy to add the pocket zipper detail.  Here's how:  

• First, I determined the length and width of the pocket and the zipper opening.  It's up to you on the size of the pocket.  I just cut some them and adjusted the width and length according to the area placed on the pants.  The front zipper is 6" and the back is 5".  
• Next creating the welt pocket window for the zipper.  I drew the rectangle on an interfaced "welt", about 2" longer than the zipper and 2.5" wide.  The height of the window is 1/2" with the cutting line in the middle, at the 1/4" point.
• I stitched on the drawn stitching line using machine stitch length at 2.  The stitching has to be exact with no back stitching.
• Slash along cutting line.  Turn the welt to the inside of the pocket. 
• Pressing is super important.  Open each of the long ends of the welt and press.  Then press the entire welt to the wrong side of the pocket.  You should have a nice rectangle opening for the zipper.  

• Evenly position the zipper from the wrong side of the pocket and pin it in place.

• Stitch the zipper in place.  I did two rounds of stitching to show up the contrasting thread.

• For the back pocket I added a stripe of fabric to the top using the wrong side of the fabric to create a contrast band. This creates the illusion of a top opening pocket.  It's actually stitched all the way around with the zipper being the actual opening.

• The final step is to secure the zipped pockets to the pants.
• *Note before I was happy with the opening of the pockets, I practiced a few times just to make sure. ;-)

Front Lower Leg Zipper -

These were added to emulate the inspiration pants.  I like the idea of being able to adjust the width of the pant.  The leg zippers should be placed and sewn before the front and back pant legs are sewn together.

• First, I had to determine the length of the pants.  To prevent them from bunching up, the hem should be at the ankle or shorter.  The top of the zipper is at the edge of the hem.
• Next, I marked the front center of the pant leg with pins the length of my zipper.
• Using the marked front center, starting at the lower edge each zipper tape is placed an inch apart (each 1/2" from the center).  For the opposite end of the zipper, it's is 2" apart (each 1" from the center).  Each side is pinned in place.
• Finally, sew two rows of stitches to secure zipper to the pants.  Now the front and back pant legs can be sewn together.

I hope this was helpful.  Stay tuned.  My next pair of cargo pants will post soon.

Happy Sewing!
Cennetta

Easter Dress for DD - Simplicity 8015

Its been awhile since I made by DD a dress.  Lately she has been more interested in casual pieces.  So it was a surprise to me when she asked me to make her what we call a "princess dress".  So,I paired Simplicity Project Runway pattern S8015 with Mood's exclusive "The Snail's Bounty Stretch Cotton #MD0107".  The fabric is something a little different from the usual brocade or silk fabrication.

This is a simple dress with princess seams, full skirt, and 3/4 length sleeves, with front and back facings to finished the bodice of the dress.  My preference is to completely line it.  So I did by adding lining to the facings and cutting the skirt lining the same as the skirt. 

The pattern comes in sizes 4 to 20.  I used size 12 with modifications.   My dress did look similar to view D without the contrast. 

My fit changes included a small FBA.  DD has a pigeon chest that is slightly rounded just above the bust area.  I also made square shoulder and swayback adjustments.  Finally, I lengthen the skirt of the dress about two inches.

The construction of the dress was easy and the instructions typical.  Of course, I changed a few things to suit my own taste.  The dress is completely lined except for the sleeves.  I hand picked the zipper and added seed beads.  I thought about adding a few beads to the eye for the snails on the bodice.  But by the time I finished hand stitching the lining to the zipper, waist and hemming the full skirt, I decided to press it and hand it over to the little lady.  It was Easter Eve and she wore this dress to church the very next day.

There are no real dislike about the style or construction of the dress.  No over the top likes either.  What I like is princess seams, which makes fitting a lot easier and a full skirt.  This is a good look for DD.

The snail fabric has a slight sheen to it.  The name includes stretch, but it really didn't have stretch in it, to me.  Not like a typical stretch woven.  To finish the dress, I used ivory pongee non-static lining from Vogue Fabrics in Evanston.  Both were easy to sew and press.

This is a easy dress to sew.  The seaming makes it easy to fit as well.  The style is basic and  you can mix and match the bodice, skirt and sleeve with other patterns.  I could make it again to get some mileage out of the fit adjustments made.  Will I use it again?  Maybe.  Do I recommend it to others?  Yes.

In conclusion, the little lady is happy.  I was happy to make it for her.  It looks great on her.  That's it, that's all.

Happy Sewing!
C