Thursday, July 11, 2019

Zipped Pockets and Pant Leg - Sew Cargo Crazy - Tutorial

I wanted to post a little tutorial on how I made the zipped pockets for my second pair of cargo pants.  

Zipped Pockets -

It was so easy to add the pocket zipper detail.  Here's how:  

  • First, I determined the length and width of the pocket and the zipper opening.  It's up to you on the size of the pocket.  I just cut some them and adjusted the width and length according to the area placed on the pants.  The front zipper is 6" and the back is 5".  
  • Next creating the welt pocket window for the zipper.  I drew the rectangle on an interfaced "welt", about 2" longer than the zipper and 2.5" wide.  The height of the window is 1/2" with the cutting line in the middle, at the 1/4" point.
  • I stitched on the drawn stitching line using machine stitch length at 2.  The stitching has to be exact with no back stitching.
  • Slash along cutting line.  Turn the welt to the inside of the pocket. 
  • Pressing is super important.  Open each of the long ends of the welt and press.  Then press the entire welt to the wrong side of the pocket.  You should have a nice rectangle opening for the zipper.  

  • Evenly position the zipper from the wrong side of the pocket and pin it in place.

  • Stitch the zipper in place.  I did two rounds of stitching to show up the contrasting thread.

  • For the back pocket I added a stripe of fabric to the top using the wrong side of the fabric to create a contrast band. This creates the illusion of a top opening pocket.  It's actually stitched all the way around with the zipper being the actual opening.
  • The final step is to secure the zipped pockets to the pants.
  • *Note before I was happy with the opening of the pockets, I practiced a few times just to make sure. ;-)

Front Lower Leg Zipper -

These were added to emulate the inspiration pants.  I like the idea of being able to adjust the width of the pant.  The leg zippers should be placed and sewn before the front and back pant legs are sewn together.

  • First, I had to determine the length of the pants.  To prevent them from bunching up, the hem should be at the ankle or shorter.  The top of the zipper is at the edge of the hem.
  • Next, I marked the front center of the pant leg with pins the length of my zipper.
  • Using the marked front center, starting at the lower edge each zipper tape is placed an inch apart (each 1/2" from the center).  For the opposite end of the zipper, it's is 2" apart (each 1" from the center).  Each side is pinned in place.
  • Finally, sew two rows of stitches to secure zipper to the pants.  Now the front and back pant legs can be sewn together.
I hope this was helpful.  Stay tuned.  My next pair of cargo pants will post soon.

Happy Sewing!


  1. They are beautiful! I love the fabric, and the zippers. So much loveliness!!!

    1. Thank you so much, Vanessa. These were fun to make. I have enjoyed the cargo challenge. It was an opportunity to be creative and to explore pocket design options. Always fun.



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