Thursday, May 29, 2014

Hotter Than July In Marigold Tribal Print Twill and Mustard Striped Washed Silk



Summer has finally arrived in Chicago.  Well, at least it feels like summer.  Last weekend temperatures were in the 90's with a lot of humidity.  HOT! This Mood Fabric project was the perfect kick off for my summer wardrobe.



At first sight, I fell in love with this Marigold Tribal-Print Twill by Oscar de La Renta.  This funky tribal medium weight twill has a stiff drape and is great for pencil skirts and shorts.  I decided to pair this with a sassy little Burda skirt featured in the Burda magazine February 2011 issue.  I only glanced at the construction details.  This is a very basic pencil skirt with a high waist, flounce and long darts that meet in the lower center back of the skirt.  The hardest part about it was inserting the flounce.  Of course, I added a few inches to the length.  Burda suggest lining this skirt.  I didn't.  There is no transparency.  The lining is not necessary with the weight of the fabric and the warm/hot time of year.

My inspiration for this outfit came from Stella Jean's Spring/Summer collection of 2013.   I like the bold prints she used in her collection.  Her fabric choices are vivid, but do not take away from the silhouette.

I wanted to try a few new style options to jazz up the wardrobe a bit.  Initially, I thought to avoid a high waist skirt since my torso is short and my legs are a mile long.  But I said what the heck, worst comes to worst, I can trim the waistband if needed.  However, that wasn't necessary.  I like it. 

First, I am wearing my tribal print skirt with a white twist front blouse.   This is the "safe" look. 

Now I'd like to review the blouse.  I used this beautiful mustard striped silk by Marc Jacobs to complete my Stella Jean inspired outfit.  The cotton silk blend has a crisp hand and sews with little effort.   I used Butterick 4659-A.


This pattern has been on my list for a couple years.  It's a typical princess seam blouse with sleeve variations.  It comes in three lengths with a curved hem.  I preferred a straight edge.  So I used  the length of A and straightened the hemline.

The other changes made are:
  - FBA
  - Made five buttonholes instead of four.
 - Made a broad shoulder adjustment (which I didn't really need).  I had to trimmed the excess away.   No sway back adjustment, which I think I needed.  But it does not look too bad.
 - Added an half inch to the center front from the edge of the collar to the hem.
 - Top stitch along the princess seams and where the edge of the sleeve meets the flounce.
 - The side front and back are cut on the bias.


Next, I'm wearing it similar to the inspiration outfit with the blouse on the outside.

Notice I didn't try to match the stripes.  I think it looks just fine.  This blouse can easily double as a light weight jacket to be worn over a tank top.  It is crisp and does not loose it's shape.

I am very pleased with how this outfit turned out.  I plan to use both patterns again.  I recommend both fabrics and patterns.

Finally, I'm wearing the blouse with a white cotton skirt, Butterick 5566.

So, I hope you like the outfit and my fabric choices.  If this is your style or if you want to try something new, both fabrics are still available at the Mood online fabric store.

Happy Sewing!
Cennetta

 

Tuesday, May 27, 2014

Thank You!

Hello everyone,

Thank you for your words of encouragement.  I really appreciate your visits and comments on my blog.  This weekend was extra long for me.  I took two floating holidays to help me jump start the sewing mojo and to write a few reviews. 

Yes.  I'm finally getting back into the swing of things.  This week I'll review a few things sewn over the past week or so.  Also, I will be publishing a series called, "Notes on a Pattern".  In this series, I will share my thoughts on patterns in my collection. 

This week, expect to see my first entry to the "Notes on a Pattern" series and at least two pattern reviews.

Happy Sewing!
Cennetta

Wednesday, May 21, 2014

MY DD in New Look 6120



Okay, I'm starting with this New Look dress that I made last year for my DD.  It has been reviewed many times.  So most of you have read about it or made it yourself.  It's very easy to make. The style resembles "Rhonda's Perfect Travel Dress""Perfect Travel Dress", which I made last winter.




 New Look 6120  

Pattern Description:
New Look Workroom from Project Runway, Misses’ dress with kimono sleeves, neckline variations and belt.

Pattern Sizing:
8 - 16; I used size 8; no modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Nothing difficult; very easy. I beginner can make this dress with no problems.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
DD picks this one a while ago. As for me, I like the kimono sleeves and the belt. No dislikes.


Fabric Used:
crinkled polyester from Vogues Fabrics in Evanston. Purchased last year.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
No changes.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I don't think I will sew it again. But I do recommend it.



Conclusion: Easy as 1, 2, 3. BTW- DD made a fascinator to wear with this dress.

Has Anyone Seem My Blogging/Sewing Mojo?


It's seems as if I lost the drive to blog and review sewing projects.  This is bad.  Although I have so much material, I don't know where to start.  My mind is on new things to make and projects from last year and early 2014 are fading to black.



Posts are being written in my mind, never coming together on the blog. I'm in a state that I don't like.  Last year.  That's right, last year I penned a few reviews, but never published them.  Maybe I'll post one of them to see if that kick starts the ole mojo.

Happy Sewing,
Cennetta

Tuesday, May 6, 2014

Successful Upgrade!!

Words cannot express how I've felt all day! Finally we have a viable upgrade installed! And to top that off, the business owners approved it! Life is good and soon things will normalize at work. Soon, I've have more time to be creative. I'm thankful and relieved.

To all of you who continue to come to my little place in cyberspace, I'm grateful and appreciate your visits and comments. The last two posts were about garments made for the Pastor's annual dinner. I still have a few more vacation garments to review. It's been so long since I've had a chance to review anything, I thought is it worthwhile at this point. Also, thought about the things I didn't review from last fall/winter. Well, time will tell. My mind is currently on new projects. Anyway, I will see how it goes.

Happy sewing!
Cennetta

Monday, April 14, 2014

Ms. Bell of the Ball in Butterick 5556


Every year I know that I’m going to make Ms. Paulette’s dress for the Pastor’s Annual Banquet. This year was no difference except I got started about two weeks later than usual and I did not help her with shopping for the fabric and notions. Ms. Paulette was on her on with the exception of a few phone calls.

Because I got a late start, I didn’t make a muslin to check the fitting. This is definitely a no, no for me. I like to confirm the fitting adjustments and design preferences before cutting into the fashion fabric. But like I said I started late having only to weeks to complete the entire project.

One good thing is I’ve sewn for Paulette for many years and know where changes are needed. The second good thing is the changes are few and not drastic: A little added here and a little removed from there. She is really not hard to fit. More often than not, she will select a vintage pattern. She likes dresses from the 40’s and 60’s. Many have details that you do not see in dresses today, like shoulder and sleeve darts or belt made in the fashion fabric.


So without further ado, here is my review of Butterick 5556.  

Pattern Description:
MISSES' DRESS AND BELT: Lined dresses A, B, mid-calf, have semi-fitted bodice and gathered, flared skirt, winged or stand-up collar, below elbow kimono sleeves, side zipper and side front pockets. B: sleeve cuffs with slit. Self-fabric belt has purchased buckle. Purchased petticoat. I drafted and made the petticoat.

Pattern Sizing:
8-22; I used between 18 and 20.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes it did. At one point I thought I had made a mistake with the waist darts. They were too long. But I look at the drawing on the envelope to see that they were as intended. So I did not lower them.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
I did not have any problems following the instructions. The skirt had eight panels. I marked each on the wrong side so I could keep track of which ones were to be gathered and to identify the front panels for the pockets.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Paulette selected this pattern. She likes everything about this dress: the full skirt, the collar, the sleeves, and the fabric belt.

Fabric Used:
A polyester I believe. The weave is similar to shantung with lengthwise stretch. She made her purchase at a local store at Roosevelt and Desplaines. I can always count on Paulette to purchase nice fabric.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Alterations:
  •  Added 3 inches to the length of the skirt. 
  •  Cut between size 18 and 20 along the sleeves.
  •  Cut size 18 at the bust area
  •  Cut size 20 at the hips. 
No design changes.
Improvisation:
  • I couldn’t find the belt backing at any of my local stores and didn’t have time to order any. So I used faux leather belting to substitute for it.
  • I drafted and made the petticoat. It was pretty easy. I used some cling free lining and crinolines to make it. Sorry I don’t have pictures of it.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
One of my sisters loves her dress and would like one too. I do recommend it to others. I was very pleased with the results and so was Ms. Paulette.

Conclusion: This is not a quick project. Plan to spend some time getting the gathers just right. And settle into the yards and yards of hand sewing on the skirt. Be careful not to mix up all those skirt panels. In the end, you will have a beautiful elegant dress.

 Happy Sewing!
C

Friday, April 11, 2014

Green with Envy - Ralph Lauren's Vibrant Green Viscose Matte Jersey - Vogue 8921



Vacation wardrobe interrupted to showcase my latest Mood Sewing Network project. So here goes.., After seeing Episode 5 of Being Mary Jane, I was determined to find a vibrant green fabric to make a similar dress.  I searched the Mood online fabric store to see if there was something close to the color.  The first few searches turned up nothing I really liked.  Then in early March, Mood posted new arrivals to their store.  There was a huge selection of green textiles for the choosing.  I was one happy sewist.



So with my Mood allowance, I selected Ralph Lauren's Vibrant Green Viscose Matte Jersey. Seriously it's a great fabric.  The recovery is excellent; the color is rich; and it is easy to sew. And perfect for my inspiration dress.  While Mary Jane's dress was a sexy sleeveless little number, Vogue 8921 was good for me.  I wanted a similar silhouette with modest and long sleeves (still chilly in Chicago).  This pattern has been on my list for a while.  After seeing Erica Bunker's version, I was sold on making this dress.






Vogue describes this dress pattern as: Misses' Dress - dress has fitted bodice with waist and front shoulder pleats, back zipper: Necklines, drape B, sleeves B, C: Narrow hem. The sizing listed is 6 through 22. I used size 14 with modifications.

For the most part my dress looked like the pattern and had a similar silhouette as the inspiration dress. The instructions appeared to be very easy, but I did not read them. The construction techniques were similar to other patterns that I have sewn in the past. I did notice that stitching two or three rows was recommended instead of serging the edges. I never do that, and I always manage to forget to say that in my reviews. View C calls for 2 3/4 yards.  I ordered 4 yards and had less than a foot left.  Maybe it's because I lengthen the sleeves and skirt.  But to me the yardage seems a little off.  I recommend you get a little more to be on the safe side, especially if you are tall like me.

I've had the pattern a while.  But I am just getting around to it. I like:
  •  pleating at the shoulder and waist
  • "V" neck - great for my body type.
  • simple


I did make a few alterations.  As usual:  a FBA (only half of what I normally make and similar to the FBA done for V8825.); prominent shoulder blade adjustment (shoulder darts); sway back adjustment; and added 4" to the length of the skirt and 1 1/2" to the length of the sleeves I wanted them to fall on my hands.

I don't know if I will sew the pattern again.  I made this dress for the Annual Pastor's Banquet.  This is a nice dress that an intermediate beginner should be able to sew with no problem. 

I'm really pleased with the outcome of this dress. 



Happy Sewing!
C

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