Plush Warm Faux Fur and Burda Style Magazine Coat

It is no surprise that it is too cold to breathe outside.  This year is no different from any other year.  We can count on single digits with sub-zero windchill temperatures in January.


I am so happy that I finally made my Chocolate/Black Faux Fur coat.  It's super warm and cozy, perfect for the breathtaking arctic winds that have found their way back our fair town.  This soft faux fur has been sitting waiting for me for over a year.  I must admit, I was a little apprehensive about making my coat.  Because I wanted it to be just right.

The wait was worth it.  My coat is just right for me: the fit, color and style.  Faux fur coats and denim are on trend.  So that how I'm wearing my new coat today.  See more trend styles on my blog, here.

The pattern that I selected is from Burda Style Magazine, October 2008, View 101.  Burda's descriptions are just as sparse as the construction details.  The high collar is perfect for my long neck. The overall silhouette is a-line with the hem hitting just above my knee.  The no fuss raglan, bell 3/4 length sleeves makes sewing them super easy.

The sizes are 36(4/6) to 44(14).  I used 14 with modifications.  My coat looks similar to the photo in the magazine with the exception of the thickness of the faux fur.


Let's not talk about the instructions.  I decided not to follow them.  So I just used some basic construction techniques that I've learned over the years.


Some tips to consider if you plan to sew this coat:

•  Adjust stitch length to 3mm when sewing the faux fur
• Used a jersey machine needle, size 14
• Because of the backing of the faux fur, I decided to interface the entire coat with Pellon apparel interfacing - SF101 black shape flex fusible.  Be careful not to crush the pile.
• I did not heat press any of the faux fur seams.  I just finger pressed them.
• Used a crepe back satin for the lining.
• The same pattern pieces are used for the lining.  Be sure to trim the lining accordingly to properly fit/join front facing and the neck facing.  
• For me, the pockets are a little high and too small.  You may want to test the replacement before sewing them.
• Make sure you pick the fur out of the seams so there is no interruption in the fur.

Fit Adjustments:

•  FBA.  I know you are probably thinking why.  I think I needed one.  My first placement of the dart was too low.  So I moved it up about an inch and curved it a bit.  

• Broad shoulder adjustment on the back coat and back sleeve.

• Added two inches to the length of the coat
• Added a few inches to the length of the sleeves, but used the added length to create a deep hem.

I may or may not make this coat again.  With Burda I would probably lean towards making it again for all the work involved with tracing the pattern.  The style of the coat is exactly what I wanted.  That is my "like".  My dislikes are: tracing the darn Burda pattern and the lack of construction guidance given in the magazine.

Overall, my coat turned out very well if I may say so myself.  I did notice some incorrect placement of a few of the snaps.  That's an easy fix, which I will correct immediately.

That is all for now.

Happy Sewing!
Cennetta

Fur and Denim

My first thoughts of a fur coat is often associated with a vision of a elegant dress or pant suit underneath.  But Marie Claire shows a different perspective in it's August 2015 issue.  The colors are bold and beautiful.

 Fur and denim is a great weekend outfit.

This second look is so 70's.  The shoulder wide collar, the over the knee boots, and the fringed purse.  I couldn't do the short, shorts though.

 These jackets also remind my of the 70's.  Cute, but a little to youthful for me.

Of course all of these looks are a little pricey.  But I can get "a look" for less with some faux fur. Lol

In my Mood Fabric stash, I have a yardage of faux fur that would be a great for a faux fur project this fall.

I'm thinking of using Burda Magazine, October 2008, coat 101 style.

Happy Sewing!
C

Hotter Than July In Marigold Tribal Print Twill and Mustard Striped Washed Silk

Summer has finally arrived in Chicago.  Well, at least it feels like summer.  Last weekend temperatures were in the 90's with a lot of humidity.  HOT! This Mood Fabric project was the perfect kick off for my summer wardrobe.

At first sight, I fell in love with this Marigold Tribal-Print Twill by Oscar de La Renta.  This funky tribal medium weight twill has a stiff drape and is great for pencil skirts and shorts.  I decided to pair this with a sassy little Burda skirt featured in the Burda magazine February 2011 issue.  I only glanced at the construction details.  This is a very basic pencil skirt with a high waist, flounce and long darts that meet in the lower center back of the skirt.  The hardest part about it was inserting the flounce.  Of course, I added a few inches to the length.  Burda suggest lining this skirt.  I didn't.  There is no transparency.  The lining is not necessary with the weight of the fabric and the warm/hot time of year.

My inspiration for this outfit came from Stella Jean's Spring/Summer collection of 2013.   I like the bold prints she used in her collection.  Her fabric choices are vivid, but do not take away from the silhouette.

I wanted to try a few new style options to jazz up the wardrobe a bit.  Initially, I thought to avoid a high waist skirt since my torso is short and my legs are a mile long.  But I said what the heck, worst comes to worst, I can trim the waistband if needed.  However, that wasn't necessary.  I like it. 

First, I am wearing my tribal print skirt with a white twist front blouse.   This is the "safe" look. 

Now I'd like to review the blouse.  I used this beautiful mustard striped silk by Marc Jacobs to complete my Stella Jean inspired outfit.  The cotton silk blend has a crisp hand and sews with little effort.   I used Butterick 4659-A.

This pattern has been on my list for a couple years.  It's a typical princess seam blouse with sleeve variations.  It comes in three lengths with a curved hem.  I preferred a straight edge.  So I used  the length of A and straightened the hemline.

The other changes made are:
  - FBA
  - Made five buttonholes instead of four.
 - Made a broad shoulder adjustment (which I didn't really need).  I had to trimmed the excess away.   No sway back adjustment, which I think I needed.  But it does not look too bad.
 - Added an half inch to the center front from the edge of the collar to the hem.
 - Top stitch along the princess seams and where the edge of the sleeve meets the flounce.
 - The side front and back are cut on the bias.

Next, I'm wearing it similar to the inspiration outfit with the blouse on the outside.

Notice I didn't try to match the stripes.  I think it looks just fine.  This blouse can easily double as a light weight jacket to be worn over a tank top.  It is crisp and does not loose it's shape.

I am very pleased with how this outfit turned out.  I plan to use both patterns again.  I recommend both fabrics and patterns.

Finally, I'm wearing the blouse with a white cotton skirt, Butterick 5566.

So, I hope you like the outfit and my fabric choices.  If this is your style or if you want to try something new, both fabrics are still available at the Mood online fabric store.

Happy Sewing!
Cennetta