Wednesday, January 6, 2010

First Project of the Year - V8594 - Shift or Sheath PTIII



This is one of the dresses that I featured in a blog post "Do You Shift or Sheath" in late summer 2009. It's also the second of three sheath dresses that I planned to make. The third I will make next summer (V1118).

Vogue rates this pattern as easy. But I think it could have been rated average because the dress is fully lined and there are multiple pieces to it, in particular the back of the bodice and skirt.

It's recommended for body figures: inverted triangle and hourglass.

Pattern Description: Misses' Dress: Mid-knee or below mid-calf length, lined dresses A - F have fitted bodice with extended shoulders forming cap sleeves, two neckline variations, princess seam variations and midriff fron, tapered skirt side back seaming details back zipper and slit. A: contrast midriff fron, side back sections and middle skirt back sections. D: purchased flexible trim at neck. Purchased belts.

I made view B.

Pattern Sizing: 9 to 24. I made the muslin size 16. It was too big. So I scaled it back to a size 14 with modifications. Details: neck and shoulders 14; bust 16 with additional FBA; midriff and skirt 14. More on the change below.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? There is nothing confusing about the instructions. The challenge is in collecting the design lines and making sure the dress fits.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Everything. I like the look of this dress. It's my favorite silhouette. Nothing to dislike.

Fabric Used: My sewing buddy, Pauline gave me about five yards of this fabric. It feels and looks like a poly blend (suiting)?

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Yes. I made a few. Details in this blog post.

I also change the zipper application, inserting a lapped zipper. Truth be told I purchased an invisible zipper, tried to install it with the wacky invisible zipper foot kit (green, blue, red, & white). It kept coming apart; so I ditched the invisible zipper. Is there a better IZFK available? Please let me know...., much appreciated.



Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes; I plan to make it again in the summer (View D).

Conclusion:
Cute dress that can be worn as jumper (borrowed from EricaB), with a jacket or just by itself. It's not a difficult pattern to sew, but be careful with line up the design lines. I missed it just a little bit on the side of the skirt.




Parting Shot - Me next to my new dress form, a gift from my sister.


Goals are coming. ;-)
Happy Sewing!
C

34 comments:

  1. I have a muslin cut and ready to sew for this dress and I am a little worried about it, so I'm pleased to see that yours looks so wonderful! That might just be my task for this coming weekend. As for invisible zipper feet, I struggled for a year or so with the plastic one and eventually found one made for my sewing machine. It cost $15 and has changed my sewing life completely. I only use invisible zips now because I get much better finish than with a lapped zipper. I don't even have to press the zip flat as some instructions tell you to. Check with a dealer who stocks your machine brand; I'm sure they will have one that fits your machine. Your lapped zipper application is pretty impressive, though!

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  2. I've admired several versions of this dress. Yours is quite lovely and fits you very well.

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  3. I don't know what type of machine you use, I'm a Singer woman myself (lol), but I bought a Brother invisible zipper foot that didn't cost much money (less than $20) and it fit my low shank vertical machine fine.

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  4. P.S. Not that I am the invisible zipper queen by far!

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  5. Your dress fits you perfect and looks wonderful on you.

    What a wonderful gift. What did you name her? :)

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  6. I like the fabric for this sheath dress and the way you pulled the whole outfit together. Your dress form is the perfect gift for you, enjoy!

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  7. Faye - I have two Singer machine and the representative recommended that I use the "kit". I'm shopping for a new machine; my favorite died on me a few weeks ago.

    Ann - I forgot to add the name of my new dressform. Her name is Rochelle, which is my sister's middle name.

    Thanks, everyone, for the compliments. I did wear my new dress Sunday.

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  8. I love all the seam details! Looks lovely on you.

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  9. Wao what a great detail, your dress looks so stunning on you

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  10. Beautiful dress- you look fabulous!

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  11. Congrats on getting the dressform as a gift! And I use my cording foot on my Janome 8000 and my regular zipper foot on my Janome 6600 to insert an invisible zipper. I never could get that plastic foot thingy to work.

    Cute dress, btw! *LOL* I'm so busy talking about everything else!

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  12. You are a master at altering patterns to achieve the best fit possible. Where did you learn how? Fantastic dress.

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  13. What a great winter look! I have a Kenmore, and the zipper foot that Sears sells looks just as untrustworthy as the red-yellow-blue kit that I've also struggled with. I found some instructions on the web for ironing the invisible zipper tape flat and using a regular presser foot (or was it the regular zipper foot?) and it resulted in the neatest, most professional finish I have ever achieved with a zipper!

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  14. That looks totally awesome- the entire ensemble!!! I've been wanting to make a dress like that and wear with long sleeves, and thanks to you I just HAVE to now! That is such a fabulous look on you, wear it often!

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  15. Gorgeous dress! You are "sheath dress type",defiantly.
    It looks fabulous on you!

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  16. Your dress looks terrific on you. Nice sewing, as always. As for invisible zippers, you can use a pintuck foot to insert them.

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  17. Your new sheath is gorgeous - the fit is wonderful and I love that beautiful shade of grey. That dress form is a great gift - you have a generous sister!

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  18. * Great dress! I especially love that pop of fuschia underneath - such a great color combo right now.

    * The very first zipper I ever did was an invisible zipper using a regular foot with this tutuorial.
    http://www.simplicitynewlook.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=92
    Not sure if what I did was correct, but even my instructor thought it turned out well. Maybe give it a shot?

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  19. Lovely dress and it fits perfect!

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  20. What fabulous seaming! It is so flattering on you. I wish I knew how to do lapped zippers--I put an invisible in everything because it's the best thing I do.

    I use my buttonhole foot (came with my Bernina) for invisible zippers. It has grooves on the bottom for doing a corded buttonhole, and the grooves are perfect to catch and unfold the invisible zipper teeth. I find it better even than an invisible zipper foot. I found this on the Bernina website: http://www.bernina.com/product_detail-n25-r13-i55-sEN.html where the little video shows the underside of the foot, but I think it's not the same as my foot; I feel like the grooves are spaced further apart on mine. I am sure there is a foot like this for most machines and it's not too expensive. You can always try and return if it doesn't work for you!

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  21. Thanks, everyone for the compliments and tips on how I can install a better invisible zipper. I never thought to use other feet for the installation. Each time I've put in an invisible zipper I used the universal one purchased at JoAnn. It takes at least three tries to get it inserted. This time I didn't have the patience and decided I wasn't going to keep using the universal one. Thanks again,
    C

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  22. Beautiful dress! I need to go make more sheaths, too. :) I usually follow the instructions on the invisible zipper package, which says to iron flat and then use a zipper foot.

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  23. Very nice and versatile, too. I love it with the hot pink turtleneck, for that pop of color.

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  24. This dress is fabulous. The fit is perfect! I think that's what really makes it. You look stunning.

    I thought that pattern looked like an "average", too. I couldn't believe that it was an "easy".

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  25. Happy New Year to you, too. :-). Looking forward to seeing more of your projects (like this one). Nice colors and nice fit on you. Thanks again.

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  26. Happy New Year to you, too! Nice colors and this is a nice fit. You're already on a roll! Looking forward to seeing more. Thanks for your comment.
    :-)

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  27. I love this dress, I love that you wore it with pink too!
    its really makes shows up the design features.

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  28. I'd love to see you try a picked zipper. I'm a convert now—they're easy and they look really cool. Perfect for all the fabulous dresses you make, including this one.

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  29. Lovely dress! It fits you like a glove. Enjoy your new dressform.

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  30. Cenetta it's so amazing! What and incredible dress!

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