Monday, December 30, 2013

Butterick 5928 - Still Needs A Little Work


I hesitated on posting a review for this jacket because I wanted to try it again to work out the kinks. I wasn't completely satisfied with the shape of the sleeves, the finished hem, and the fit in the bust area.

It is rated as very easy. There are some elements that I think may be challenging for a beginner: it's a lined jacket with two pivot points at the neck area that require accuracy for balance across the shoulders and neck area.

 I couldn't find any reviews on it in blog land or on Pattern Review. So I guess I'm the first person to post a review on it. Maybe ours have tried it but have not shared their experience. That being said, I hope my review is helpful.  

Pattern Description: MISSES' VEST AND JACKET: Fitted, lined vest or jacket has front extending into drape and back collar, shoulder pleats, princess seams, and shaped hemline. Lining shows on hemline.  

Pattern Sizing: 6 - 22; I used size 14 with "not enough" modifications.  

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did. I made view A with the sleeves of view D.  

Were the instructions easy to follow? There was nothing difficult or confusing about the instructions.  

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? From the moment I saw it in the Butterick pattern catalog, I knew I would make it. I liked the draped collar and the back peplum. These were the two design elements that drew me to this jacket. I disliked some of the construction steps: #25 Stitching the front, neck and lower edges to the lining. You can't understitch to ensure that the jacket is slightly pulled to the inside. The inside of the drape shows in one of the smooth pleats along the front.  I ended up rolling and pressing the edges slightly to the inside so the lining would not show. #28 Baste armhole edges together. I like to set the sleeve in the jacket to the jacket only. Then attach the lining. Finally, I didn't like to one piece sleeve. I think it should be two pieces. Just my personal preference.  

Fabric Used: I purchased this nubby mystery blend (definitely some natural fibers included)from the Textile Warehouse. It was priced at $6.00 per yard. Because it was stained on the edge, I got it for $3.00 per year instead. It has a soft hand and feels good against the skin.  


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I made my usual FBA and back adjustments (swayback) not included in the illustration, plus I added width to the sleeve. All of which did not proof a great fitting jacket. Above the fullness of the bust, there is a little fabric "bunching". I don't like it and it just doesn't feel right. Maybe a bigger FBA would help, but I think I'll end up with a lot of excess fabric above the bust. Second, either there is issue with the shape of the sleeve or I have more fat on the back of my upper arm than I care to admit. Third, there is too much ease in the sleeve cap.  

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I think I will. The issues cited are minor and can be tweaked. This first try is not a total failure. I can wear the jacket. In fact, I received a lot of compliments when I wore it earlier this month. For those who plan to make it, make a muslin first. Choose a fabric similar to your fashion fabric.  

Conclusion: I don't agree that this an very easy pattern to sew. That implies a beginner could sew with no problems. Average may be a better rating, given it is a lined jacket and there is some pivoting required around the neck that could be challenging for a beginner to get sharp points and balance between the two pivot points. Make a muslin before you cut into your fashion fabric.

10 comments:

  1. Miss Cennetta, I never even looked at that pattern until you showed it. Wow, what a great jacket! I'm sure your next version will be exactly like you want it but this one looks great in the pictures!

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  2. I love this suit on you! The drape is very elegant. And you can always keep refining, even as you enjoy all the versions.

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  3. You're very accomplished at fitting. I'm sure your next version will be perfect.

    The skill rating of patterns seems completely arbitrary to me. What some companies label as 'easy' is oftentimes misleading and just wrong. Sewers should assess their individual skills and see if a pattern is doable.

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    Replies
    1. Thanks, ladies.
      L, I agree, each sewist must assess their skills to determine if a pattern is doable.

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  4. I agree with above, never notice that pattern. it looks great on you

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  5. I hadn't noticed this pattern either. I think it is sleeper and will become very popular. It's a great combination of fitted and feminine. I think yours looks lovely.

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    Replies
    1. Thanks, Audrey. I was surprised that no one had reviewed it.

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  6. That collar is very flattering but I agree that those corner points are a pain to sew properly, especially for a beginner. Love the color on you!

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  7. Wow, beautifully made jacket! I know that fitting is very personal, and if don't like the fit, then you would know best, but I don't see any excess bagginess above the bust and it doesn't seem too tight in the arm. I hope maybe you like it more with time, and best of luck with the next version.

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