The Brocade Makes The Jacket - Butterick B6915

A little over a year ago, I briefly mentioned my work on the muslin for the jacket of this pattern.  Since that time, I did more tweaking of the pattern and decided to use a beautiful brocade that I purchased from Mood Fabrics several years ago during a visit to New York.  

I thought the style of the jacket was the perfect match for the brocade.  Granted I did want to reduce any chance of something going wrong or turning out wonky before I cut into my fabric.  I really love the fabric and wanted to make something special with it.   

We are now in the hot, muggy days of summer.  It was 94 degrees when I took the photos of me wearing my outfit.  Though the coloration of my new suit is bright and cheery, it is perfect for the fall/winter season.  

Pattern Description:  Classic two-piece suit with a twist.  Lined jacket draws asymmetrically across the body and fastens with three buttons.  Jacket features flap detail at front.  Pants come in ankle length and includes invisible zipper on the side.  View C are wide leg pants.  I made view A and B.

Pattern Sizing:  It comes in two size groups (8 - 16) and (18 - 26) I used size 16 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, my outfit does look like the drawing and the suit that the model is wearing.  

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were typical and easy to follow.  There was nothing confusing about them.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  

Likes -

• The asymmetrical style line of the jacket.
• The pleats at the neckline of the jacket
• The princess seam.

Dislikes -

• The one piece sleeve.  I prefer a two piece sleeve for a suit jacket.  These sleeves were snug and there was too much in the sleeve cap for my fabric.  When I made the muslin the amount of ease in the sleeve cap was easy to work into the armhole.  But in the brocade it was slightly difficult.  I had to set the sleeve three times.

Fabric Used:  My fabrics were purchased at Mood Fabrics during a trip to met up with several sewing friends (Carolyn, Andrea, Gaylen)  in New York.  My jacket fabric is a silk brocade and the pants is a medium weight polyester satin.  

 
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I made several pattern adjustments beginning with the full bust adjustment and my usual back adjustments.  I also lengthen the sleeves and added an inch width to the upper arm area.  For the pants I had to lengthen the leg and crotch.  Sorry no photo of that adjustment.

After making the adjustments and a muslin, I still needed to make a few tweaks as I sewed.  Below is a photo of me fitting the lower half of the jacket along side of photo of the finished outfit.  See the difference in the flare of the peplum.  I ripped it all out and reduced the peplum along the sides. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I think once is enough.  But, I do recommend this pattern to others.  You should make a muslin before cutting into your fashion fabric.

Conclusion: I'm pleased with how this suit turned out.  I'll probably wear it the first chance I get when cooler weather returns.  This pattern is not difficult to sew. It's time consuming and you should take your time and enjoy the process.

Cozy Stretch Velvet - New Look N6687

I wanted a cozy, black velvet top for the winter season.  When I saw the stretch velvet at Joann's, I really didn't have a pattern in mind.  I just knew I wanted something new and cozy for the season.  After returning home from the store, immediately I tossed the fabric with several other fabrics into the washer.  This velvet washes and dries beautifully.  Love it.

My pattern choice for my velvet top was New Look N6687.  I thought the match up was okay.  Not perfect though.  The fabric for the top used on the envelope appears to be lighter and has more fluidity.  

This pattern top, view A,  may be described as a knit top with a asymmetric neckline, ruched side and long sleeves.  

It comes in sizes 6 to 18.  I used size 16 with a few modifications.

My version of the top looks very much like the drawing and photographs on the envelope.  Because of the heavy fabric, my version does not have as much drape.  Also, the length of my top looks a few inches shorter.  

The instructions were typical and easy to follow.  It's important to transfer all markings, notches and circles.  There was nothing confusing in the instructions.  The top quickly came together.

What I like about this top is the neckline and the ruching.  A change in the neckline of a basic t-shirt is always welcomed.  The ruching helps add interest to the waistline while camouflages that little fluffy area that a few of us have. Lol

As far as alterations of the pattern, I didn't change/alter much.  In the bust area, I added just a bit more width and I lengthen the sleeves about an inch.  Lately, I've been feeling a little lazy when it comes to doing a FBA.  The good thing is it turned out just fine.

I think I will make this again.  Next time I will make it slightly longer.  Plus I will do a better "FBA". Lol  This is a pattern that beginners can make, and I do recommend it.  Surprisingly, there aren't many postings online by sewists who have made it.

In conclusion, this is a nice staple knit top to try.  The neckline and the ruching add interest to a basic t-shirt design.

So that’s it for now.

Happy Sewing!

Mixing It Up With Simplicity Cardigan S8992 and Vogue Pants V8859

My little collection of TNT patterns is growing.  It's the simple style lines and easy sewing that makes some of these patterns extremely valuable to me.  Vogue V8859 pants I've made at least a dozen pair so far.  And I don't see myself retiring this one any time soon.  I love these pull-on pants.  As for Simplicity S8992, I've only made it once before.  The dress is below.  This could quickly become a TNT.  It is part of Simplicity's "Pattern Hacking" collection.  I like it a lot too.

I started this project with making the pants.  I wanted to add a tuxedo style stripe down the sides.  Like I said to try something new.  Personally, they turned out to be a great looking pair of pants.  After I finished them, I saw that I had about 3/4 yard of the knit fabric left.  So, I attempted to "squeeze" out a little cardigan.  But of course, I had to use another fabric for the stripe and the sleeve to complete it.  The difference in fabric didn't matter.  In fact, they complement each other.  

In the end, I not only made another great pair of pants, but I also have a nice little cardigan to match.

Just to provide some details on the fabrics, I purchased the ponte knit from Vogue Fabrics last winter.  I only bought two yards which was more than enough for the slim pull-on pants.  The ribbed black knit (used for the sleeve and the stripe on the cardigan) came from Joann's.  It was a remnant from another project.  

Also, for the cardigan I used snaps and buttons for the closure.  I didn't want to make buttonholes.  So, I sewed on snaps and sewed buttons to the right side of the front closure.

I like how the outfit turned out.  It is definitely an early fall project.  The ponte knit is too heavy for summer weather. Lol I'll save this outfit for the right time and weather conditions.  

Happy Sewing!

C

January 2022 - The Month of Knit Top M8238 Burda Style 6990 M7836

My last post was a pattern review on McCall M7836, View C.  I didn't have any photos of me wearing the top at the time of the view.  Since then, I had an opportunity to take a few photos along with photos of two other knit tops that I made the same week.

Before I talk about the other knit tops I made, here are a few pictures of me wearing M7836, View C.

I'm wearing a pair of McCall 8244 leggings that I made sometime in October, I think.  I didn't bother to review them.  They were super easy. I was just waiting to show them with a new top or tunic.

You know I really try to maximize my use of patterns that I like.  So, my little collection of TNT patterns is growing.  Lol. I made another version of M8238-B and another of Burda Style 6990-D.

M8238-B

I just made a little minor change of making it a little smaller for a closer fit.

Burda Style 6990-D

Minor change to this one too.  I didn't have enough yardage to make the sleeve one piece.  So, I added a cuff like to make my desired length. 

Happy Sewing!

C

First Garment of the Year! McCall M7836

Today I'm sharing my first sewing project for 2022.  This is the third top that I've made from McCall 7836.  The second one hasn't been reviewed yet.  I gave it to my sister early last year and almost forgot I made it.  

My initial plan was to make all the views.  But now I don't think I'll make view D.  My favorites are this view and view A.  I'll probably make them again.

This top was made to wear with a pair of leggings that I made a few months ago (I'll review them later this month.).   

I used size 16 with only a design modification.  The sizing was good for me without making a FBA.

For the most part, my top looks like the top the model is wearing on the envelope.  The top was easy to sew and it went together with no problems.

There are a few little things to look out for.  The notches on the two front and two back patterns do not line up.  See photos below.  No biggie, just line up the top and the bottom edges and sew them together.  It comes out even.  There was nothing confusing in the instructions other than that.

My likes:

• Drop shoulders
• Mock turtleneck
• Cold shoulder and the drape of the sleeve

Dislikes:

• Once I finished the top, I didn't like the width of the shoulder opening. It was too wide for me.  So I decided to make a braided strap to kind of control how wide the opening falls and to make it easier to wear with a traditional bra.  I think the strap adds a little more style to the top too.

The fabric I used is a stretch polyester velvet that I purchased at my local JoAnn's Fabric.  It washes and dries beautifully.  And it was also easy to sew.

I will probably make this again.  It's stylish and is a great top to wear with leggings or close-fitting pants.

I do recommend it to others.  This is not a new pattern.  And I think many sewists in the online sewing community have made it.  For sure I will make this one again.

Happy Sewing!

C