Notes on a Pattern - Burda Style Jacket 7321

 

Hi Sewing Friends,

Today's post is "Note on a Pattern" for Burda Style Jacket 7321.  For starters, I cut the pattern pieces at size 18 instead of 16.  I wanted to test to see if a larger size would give me a better fit.  I've noticed that some Burda Style sizing/cut run smaller than the Big Four.  

I made most of my usual fit adjustments:  FBA, swayback back, lengthen the sleeves, and slightly forward shoulders.  This jacket is short.  The hem is at the upper hip area. I prefer a longer jacket for this style.  So I lengthen the jacket by 2 inches above the waist.

My muslins fit pretty well, with the exceptions of the waist area.  It fits, but I like a little more move.  So, I will just an inch or two along the side seam.  Truly, though, adding the 2 inches to the length of the jacket may have something to do with the snug fit.

On the muslin, you can see that I transferred all of the markings. I wanted  to have a complete visual of the jacket; the location of the buttonholes and pockets as well as the grainlines. The back looks very good.  I like the darts at the shoulder for better shaping on me.  I didn't make a prominent shoulder blade adjustment.  That may also attribute to the snug fit.

There are a few drag lines in the upper chest area, which I will address.  I'm excited to make this jacket.  I think the style and the fit are good for me.  So with that said, I think I am off to a good start on making this jacket.

So, stay tune for updates on this jacket project.

Happy Sewing!

C

Notes on a Pattern - McCall M7929

Today's "Notes on a Pattern" is for McCall M7929.  

I couldn't skip this step in the fit process.  I wanted to be sure about the fit before I cut into my fashion fabric.  Luckily, the changes that I initially made to the tissue pattern were very close to what is needed to make this top work for me.  

In these notes, my main focus was the fitting the front bodice.  My muslin is a combination of view B and D.  It helps me to see how it all comes together and how it will look on me.

Below are the tissue pattern changes.  Here I made a full bust adjustment (FBA).

For the bodice back, I made swayback adjustment and I adjusted the back pattern for a zipper closure instead of a button closure.  Please forgive the pencils and pens.  I used them to hold the pattern pieces in place.  On both front and back I raised the neckline a little.  I hate how low pattern fall on me.

Now, to look at the outcome of my changes.  For the FBA, the bottom edge of the cup is now longer than  the midriff.  To reduce length,  the excess needed to be removed.  So on one side I made a dart and the other I ease in the excess.  I liked to dart better.  So, in my fashion fabric I will make a dart at the lower section of the cup.  

The back is very good with this muslin.  So I don't think I need to make any more substantial changes.  Maybe a little tweaking here and there.

The next is to determine whether to make the top or add a skirt to the top for a dress.  Stay tuned.

Happy Sewing!

C

Easy Simplicity Pullover Top - S9679 in Review

I've had Simplicity S9679 in my pattern collection for a while. I am just getting around to sewing it.  Of course, I had to do my usual fit adjustments; FBA and swayback.  In this review, I paired it with a TNT pants pattern S8389.  It is a go-to for an easy fit and sew coordinate.  

So let's begin the pattern review of Simplicity S9679

Pattern Description:  Misses' knit top with sleeve variations.

Pattern Sizing:  4 - 20; I used size 16 with modifications.  I made view B.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, it did.  Slight changes to address the adjustments made.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Yes,  the instructions were typical; nothing difficult or confusing in them.  

Was the construction easy?  Yes, the top went together with ease.  The most tedious part was finishing the opening across the upper chest and back.  This step required you to take your time.  This area is a focal point of the top.  I used some steam a seam to hold everything in place as I sewed.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  For this version of the top I have likes and dislikes.

 Likes -

• The seaming and the opening at the upper body. 
• The slant of the neck opening.  It adds interest to what would a simple pullover top.

Dislikes -

• Finishing of the armhole.  I added a binding to finish it.
• The armhole fit.  I could have created the problem when I slightly rise it.  But this is something that I noticed in other tops that have a sleeveless and sleeved version that used the same front and back pattern.  For my next version I'll try to address that.

Fabric Used:  I used a ribbed knit from Fashion Fabric Fabrics.  I love the chartreuse color of it.  The stretch recovery could be better.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  

• FBA - I used my molly t-shirt pattern to make it.  You can see where are made changes along the sides and at the lower front armhole.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

• Swayback adjustment - I first cut the lower back into two pattern pieces.  Next, I made the tuck on each pieces and added at the hem.  I added seam allowance to both patterns where they would be joined.   I didn't make a prominent shoulder blade adjustment.  It appears to be okay without it. 
• I shorten the opening to eliminate any gapping.
• I cut binding out of the fashion fabric to finish the armhole.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I plan to sew view C. And yes, I recommend it to others.

Conclusion:  I enjoyed making this pullover top.  It is a change from the typical t-shirt style pullover.  You can dress it up or down.  It's easy to sew for all sewing levels.

Happy Sewing!

C

The Brocade Makes The Jacket - Butterick B6915

A little over a year ago, I briefly mentioned my work on the muslin for the jacket of this pattern.  Since that time, I did more tweaking of the pattern and decided to use a beautiful brocade that I purchased from Mood Fabrics several years ago during a visit to New York.  

I thought the style of the jacket was the perfect match for the brocade.  Granted I did want to reduce any chance of something going wrong or turning out wonky before I cut into my fabric.  I really love the fabric and wanted to make something special with it.   

We are now in the hot, muggy days of summer.  It was 94 degrees when I took the photos of me wearing my outfit.  Though the coloration of my new suit is bright and cheery, it is perfect for the fall/winter season.  

Pattern Description:  Classic two-piece suit with a twist.  Lined jacket draws asymmetrically across the body and fastens with three buttons.  Jacket features flap detail at front.  Pants come in ankle length and includes invisible zipper on the side.  View C are wide leg pants.  I made view A and B.

Pattern Sizing:  It comes in two size groups (8 - 16) and (18 - 26) I used size 16 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, my outfit does look like the drawing and the suit that the model is wearing.  

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were typical and easy to follow.  There was nothing confusing about them.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  

Likes -

• The asymmetrical style line of the jacket.
• The pleats at the neckline of the jacket
• The princess seam.

Dislikes -

• The one piece sleeve.  I prefer a two piece sleeve for a suit jacket.  These sleeves were snug and there was too much in the sleeve cap for my fabric.  When I made the muslin the amount of ease in the sleeve cap was easy to work into the armhole.  But in the brocade it was slightly difficult.  I had to set the sleeve three times.

Fabric Used:  My fabrics were purchased at Mood Fabrics during a trip to met up with several sewing friends (Carolyn, Andrea, Gaylen)  in New York.  My jacket fabric is a silk brocade and the pants is a medium weight polyester satin.  

 
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I made several pattern adjustments beginning with the full bust adjustment and my usual back adjustments.  I also lengthen the sleeves and added an inch width to the upper arm area.  For the pants I had to lengthen the leg and crotch.  Sorry no photo of that adjustment.

After making the adjustments and a muslin, I still needed to make a few tweaks as I sewed.  Below is a photo of me fitting the lower half of the jacket along side of photo of the finished outfit.  See the difference in the flare of the peplum.  I ripped it all out and reduced the peplum along the sides. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I think once is enough.  But, I do recommend this pattern to others.  You should make a muslin before cutting into your fashion fabric.

Conclusion: I'm pleased with how this suit turned out.  I'll probably wear it the first chance I get when cooler weather returns.  This pattern is not difficult to sew. It's time consuming and you should take your time and enjoy the process.

Many Sewing Projects All At Once

Good morning Sewing Friends,

I wanted to post a short update on the many projects that I am currently working on.  During the past few months, most of my sewing time has been on pattern fit adjustments and making muslins to check the fit to make sure it's good.  Often I do several fit adjustments at the same time.  Then once everything is good, I move to the next step of making the actual garments.

Today, I'm posting a few of the muslins that I've completed.  My hope is to post a "Note on a Pattern" and make the garment.  So, here is a preview of some of my upcoming projects.  

McCall M7978 - Blouse

Butterick B6915

Simplicity S9783

Pattern Favorite - New Look NL6824

Birthday Dress!

I'm delighted to share another addition of my birthday dress project.  I've used New Look 6824 FIVE times.  And this is the second time I used it for a birthday dress.  The first one was a ivory crepe satin with a lace overlay.  That was in 2008.  I was a smaller person then. Lol

Here is a link to all my posts on New Look 6824.

Patterns can be easily altered, which is fantastic.  For this fifth installation, I just graded it up as I cut.  This was a super quick make.  I needed a pink-ish dress for our church Annual Women's Conference.  This was the first time our main "color" wasn't white.  I went digging through boxes and bins looking for this fuchsia wool that I purchased at Fishman's Fabrics years ago. Lucky for me I had already paired it with a China silk lining.  Both were neatly stored in a plastic bag.  No moth wholes, just perfect.

I didn't really have anything in mind when I purchased it.  So now, it is a Jackie O-ish dress that is so me.  It sewed up fast.  No problems at all.

Parting Photo:  Pink was the color this year.  All because of the new Barbie movie.  I wasn't my goal to make three pinkish outfits this summer.  There is a collage of my three pink outfits that I completed this year.

 

Daisy Dress McCall M8103

 

Summertime is in full affect here in the mid-west, and it can be challenging to look polished, cool, and comfortable when temperatures are in the upper 90's and the humidity is 95 percent. It feels like a sauna.  So, the best thing is to go with the flow, look your best, and enjoy the summer months while they are here. In no time at all, it will be September, which will usher in another season for us.

My comfort look is soft and floaty. It provides comfort and style for the season. And that is how I feel wearing my latest summer dress.

I used McCall Daisy M8103 to make my latest summer dress.  With the slightest breeze, the skirt dances in the wind.  That is one of the things I love about it.

I purchased the fabric from Joann's a few months ago. They may still have it in stock. It's a cocoa brown guaze type viscose fabric. It is very soft and easy to handle.  There is one small draw back though. It is very loosely woven and has the tendency to "grow" throughout the project. So be careful.

I used size 16 with modifications.  This pattern comes with multiple cups sizes for the upper front. This may save a little time for most sewists. For me I used the D cup. But I hate the one huge dart. It never turns out like intended.  So, I tweaked the pattern a bit and created three darts in the upper front bodice.

There are many qualities that I like about this pattern.  The one that drew me to the pattern is the flounces. Love them.  They do take a lot of time to finish.  I devoted one sewing segment to finishing the hem and attaching the flounces to the waist and hem of the skirt. Another like is how the skirt is attached to the bodice. The faux wrap crosses over the entire front of the body. So there is no worry of "exposure". Wink, wink.  The separate cup size pattern pieces are a plus too. All of these things, in addition to the floaty fabric, made this a loveable sewing experience.

Now, I do have a few dislikes. The expansion of the fabric during the entire project was annoying. I had to keep making adjustments as I went along. Oh yeah, I did make a muslin. The fabric that I used was tightly woven and didn't present the challenge that I experienced with my fashion fabric.  It would be wise to do some stay stitching on some pieces to hold the shape. 

Other changes I made:

• Adjusted the shoulder straps
• Raised the upper front and back armsyce.

I did not lengthen the skirt. But compared to the photo, my skirt is longer on me than the one on the model. Overall, I think my dress looks like the dress on the envelope.  

I'm happy to have this new edition to my wardrobe. And with some restrictions being lifted, I also have something new to wear to upcoming events. Happiness.

This is a great summer dress pattern to try. Be ready to spend some time constructing and finishing the flounces. Other than the fitting this is where I spend the most concentrated time. 

I may make it again. But in the meantime, there are several other dresses I planned to sew this summer. Til next time, enjoy your summer, and I hope you are able to make something that you love.

C