Wednesday, September 26, 2018

Multiple Cup Size Pattern vs. Manual Full Bust Adjustment

I know that title is a mouth full and may be poorly worded.  But I wanted to discuss my experience with trying to take advantage of multiple cup size patterns.  I wondered if others have a similar experience where there is some pulling across the chest about mid front armscye.  Feel free to comment.

So here we go..,

I have quite a few multiple cup size patterns in my collection.  Most I have not used yet.  But there are at least a hand full I have tried.

This summer I had created an overly ambitious list of sewing projects that I wanted to complete.  Two of them were patterns that have multiple cup sizes.  I may have hesitated to make them because of my past experiences with using the desired cup size pattern that are included.

McCall 6696 Dress

I really like McCall's 6696 set of dresses.  They create a more defined waist, have different skirt options, and a slip.  My hope is to make views B, D, and E.  Sometime in the near future.   When I was organizing my summer sewing projects, I decided to analysis the difference between the manufacturer's cup size and my adjusted pattern (cup A/B).  My findings were inline with how garments fit using the designated cup size.

There is enough width cross the chest area, but the fit is not uncomfortable near the armscye, about 2/5 of the way down from the shoulder seam.  That is, the area starting just above the fullness of the bust.  So from the small circle to the front single notch.  Additionally, for me the length isn't quite enough.

Below is a picture of McCall 6696 my adjustment of pattern front cup size for A/B and the manufacturer's version of the cup size C/D.  One on top of the other with my FBA of A/B on the bottom.  Note - The shoulder seam (my adjustment) is a bit too long. That's an easy adjustment.  Also, a few inches below the bust dart, less width is needed.


This is food for thought with determining the best way to address your FBA needs.  This dress will stay on my "To Make List" now that I have taken the time to make my FBA.

Happy Sewing!

NOTE:  This is my experience, not the "standard" or the "gospel".


  1. Thanks for posting this! I learn so much from everyone else's sewing practices. This is helpful for sure. I hope you make one of those dresses, the style lines are super cute.

  2. yes I find the cup size patterns with darts to be awkward, usually the darts are too big or in the wrong place. The cup size patterns for princess seam garments though are usually very useful and the shaping is more accurate.

    1. Thanks, Beth, for chinning in. I'm hoping that this post helps others who may use the multiple cup size patterns.



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