Notes on a Pattern - Full Bust Adjustment Tutorial McCall's M8240

This is my muslin

It has been a while since I did a Notes on a Pattern.  

This top is all over social media.  I hesitated to make it for fear of the front placket not being perfect.  To help myself, I researched for some tutorials to get a flawless placket.  I did find a few on Instagram that were helpful.  An easy fit.  My other concern was with the FBA adjustment.  Could I get away without adjusting?  So for my wearable muslin, I decided to use the molly t-shirt front pattern as a sloper for the FBA. 

Well, it didn't exactly work to my liking.  The center front hem is slightly higher than the rest of the hem. So, I did the next best thing:  I made a traditional FBA for the best fit.  Today, I am posting a FBA tutorial for this McCall's pullover.

Below is my tutorial:

Step 1 - Draw the lines to prepare for the slash and spread of the pattern sections.

Step 2 - Cut along the line 1 and spread the desired amount of the adjustment.  In this instance, the amount is 1".

Step 3 - Cut and spread line 2 at the bust area to bring balance back to the side.

Step 4 - fill in with tissue paper along line 1 and 2.  Tape in place except for the lower right portion severl inches above the hem.

Step 5 - Cut and spread line 3 to true up the hemline.  Then fill in with tissue paper.

Step 6 - trim tissue paper all except for the bust area.

Step 7 - Fold the dart in half to trim tissue paper.  True up the bust dart along the side seam.

That's it for the basic traditional full bust adjustment.  I hope this information/tutorial is helpful.

Happy Sewing!

C

Notes on a Pattern McCall's M7978 - Blouse

 

Here's another project that is in the works.  I've wanted to make this top for a few years now.  Early April, I made a muslin.  And over two years ago, I did the tissue paper fit adjustments.  Sometimes I start and stop, start and stop, working on a project.  But this time, I hope to finish this one with a very nice blouse that fits well.  I wonder how many of us do that. Lol.

Anyway, this Notes on a Pattern details the fit adjustments.  My hope is that the information is useful to other sewists with the same/similar fit adjustments.  

To begin, let me start with the design/style of the blouse.  I think it is a good silhouette for me.  The "V" neckline is great for my inverted triangle shape.  The midriff gives me a little more definition at the waist and the ever so slightly flounce helps with the lack of noticeable hips.  So I think it's good for me.

A, B, C, D tops have gathered front and back, self faced yoke, button and loop closures, forward shoulder seams and gathered sleeve variation and band. B: Flounce. A, B, C: Cuffs. D: Sleeve band, neck band and ties in one.  The pattern comes in sizing groupings (6-14) and (14-22).  I used size 16 with modifications, of choice.

Most of my likes about this pattern is related to how it will help enhance my figure.  I also like the gathers and the fullness of the long sleeve view.  Additionally, it is a pretty easy blouse to sew, and there are no difficult constructions steps that I see.

The photos and drawing are true to the pattern.  So there are no concerns there.

Now, let's get to the fit adjustments.  I'll start with the full bust adjustment the front, a surplus bodice.  For the surplus bodice, I simply slashed and spread the appropriate amount for me.  To do so, I had to determine the needed amount of width and length being careful not to create too much fullness to gather under the bust.  I really didn't need to add any width to the front midriff pattern pieces.  

Next, for the upper back, I added a little length to balance it out with the front bodice.  The lower back midriff pieces, I did a sway back adjustment to remove additional fabric to pool at the lower back area, then adding the length at the bottom to balance out the hemline.

The last thing I adjusted was the neck band and the tie.  For this pattern piece, I needed to add some length to the neckband part only, slightly less than what I added to the front bodice.  Less to reduce the chance of gapping at the fullness of the bust.  The difference in the front bodice can be eased in.  See neck band/tie photo slash above the tie section of the pattern piece.

As for the sleeve length, I wasn't too concerned about making that adjustment for the muslin.  Most of the time it's a matter of adding an inch in the lower half of the sleeve.  Easy.

So, this is it for the Note on a Pattern for McCall M7978.  Now, I need to get to work on the actual blouse.

More later.  Stay tuned.

Happy Sewing,
C

Many Sewing Projects All At Once

Good morning Sewing Friends,

I wanted to post a short update on the many projects that I am currently working on.  During the past few months, most of my sewing time has been on pattern fit adjustments and making muslins to check the fit to make sure it's good.  Often I do several fit adjustments at the same time.  Then once everything is good, I move to the next step of making the actual garments.

Today, I'm posting a few of the muslins that I've completed.  My hope is to post a "Note on a Pattern" and make the garment.  So, here is a preview of some of my upcoming projects.  

McCall M7978 - Blouse

Butterick B6915

Simplicity S9783

Winter Is Coming!

"Winter is coming."  That's a famous line from the "Game of Thrones".  In the movie it means that something bad was about to happen.  In this instance, it literally means "winter is coming." Lol

It's time to start making "our" winter coats.  In my effort to "get ready", I decided to take a look at some of the coats that I've made over the past 15 years.  So this post is to take note of my coat making journey as well as inspire others. 

So here goes!

Butterick B6244 (2016)

Butterick B6385 (2018)

Burda Style Mag 10-2008-101 (2016)

Burda Style 6462 (2019)

Burda Style 6462 (2019)

Kelly Anorak Jacket (2021)

McCall M7254 (2019)

McCall M7480 (2017)

Simplicity S2057 (2020)

Simplicity S2508 (2021)

Simplicity S2812 (2011)

Simplicity S4356 (2011)

Simplicity S9388 (2021)

Simplicity S9388 (2021)

Vogue V1060 (2012)

Vogue V1216 (2011)

Vogue V1262 (2013)

Vogue V8212 (2016)

Vogue V9037 (2016)

Are you planning a coat project? How many? What fabric and color? Please share.

Happy Sewing!

C

January 2022 - End of the Month Sewing Review

I owe this new approach to reviewing my sewing activities to my friend, Carolyn, over at "Diary of a Sewing Fanatic."  Carolyn has been doing this for quite some time now.  I really like the idea of posting mini recaps of my sewing journey.   This may be better for me than waiting until the end of the year for a grand post about all my makes of the year.  Following this practice will give me 12 mini recaps that I can draw from at the end of the year.  Then hopefully, I will find it easier to post an end of the year review.

After the holidays, I'm happy to stay at home and sew.  I'm encouraged and excited at the close of the year to start making new goals, new plans for a rewarding year of accomplishments.  This attitude is no different for things I want to make.  Usually, I decide what I'd like to make in December for January.  By the first of the year, I cut out a few garments to start.  Something easy.  

This helps get the mojo going after all the holiday season cooking, cleaning, and decorating.  So, this year I started with three knit tops.  I cut them all out on the same day.  I made the black velvet top first, as I thought it would be the prettiest of the three.  Then, I moved on to sew up the second and third tops.

Black Velvet Top - M7836 - View C 

This is actually my favorite, and it is a good compliment to the black leggings that I made last year.  So, I was off to a great start with a pretty top and something new to wear with the black leggings.  My fabric came from JoAnn's.

Ribbed Knit BS6990 - View D and M8238 - View B

The next two tops, I've made a few times before.  Especially, the Burda Style turtleneck BS6990.  It is a TNT.  This is the fourth time I've made it.  And McCall's M8238 - View B.  I just had to try it again.  From bodice to pullover knit top.  Both are great staples, and I will get a lot of wear out of them.  Fabric from FabricMart Fabrics.

Beige Polyester Suiting - V1294 - View B

Black and Ivory Floral Blouse - NL6560 - View D

My next two projects were not the quick and easy two-hour projects.  I wanted to add some details to a plain pair of pants.  I selected V1294.  These pants are well drafted and good for a sloper/TNT pant.  Welt pockets are still a challenge for me.  I don't know why as I've made them several times.  For these pants, I added them to the back.  They turned out perfect.  Happiness.  So, this was my challenge project for the month.  It was also a Minerva Fabric sponsored project.

My Coordinate of choice is also a Minerva sponsored project.  I've wanted to make this blouse for a while.  I like it paired with the subtle pinstriped beige pants.  Both the bold and the subtle show up in this outfit.  My new blouse is floating and feminine; it can be worn with a few other garments in my wardrobe.  That's another sub-goal of mine.  Is to create more mixing and matching instances in my wardrobe.

Black Faux Suede with Fleece Backing V1515 - View A

My final garment made for the month of January is a pullover vest made of faux suede from JoAnn's.  Unfortunately, this is my least favorite make of the month.  Nothing to do with the construction, but the style on me is not that great.  So, this one I will gift to someone.  

This sums up my sewing projects for the month of January 2022.  In total I completed six garments.  The majority are knit tops: fancy and staples.  Love my new neutral feminine blouse and pants.  There is only one not in love with project.  Pretty good for the first month of the year.

Til next time!  Enjoy!

Cennetta