Friday, November 22, 2019

Notes on a Pattern - Simplicity 8982

Hi everyone,

It's been ages since I posted and even longer since I posted Notes on a Pattern.  Anyway, today I'd like to give some details on my pattern adjustments, talk about my likes and personal preferences using one of Simplicity's popular patterns for the Fall 2019 season.  It is also the "SewYourView" challenge pattern for November.

Simplicity S8982

Easy to Sew Misses' Dress or two-piece top and skirt. Designed and sized for stretch knits only. Dress is below-knee length with long sleeves. Top has straight or cuffed sleeve options. Pull-on skirt is elasticated at waist. Two length options. (description from the website.)

The pattern is available in two size groupings (6-14 and 14-22), which is pretty good for range of sizes available.  Because the pattern is so simple, you can easily grade it up if needed.

The instructions are pretty typical, no problems with understanding or following them.  I must confess, I didn't look at them until after I made my first top and skirt.  But because I'd wanted to do a Notes post, I decided to read them.  They are easy and all level sewists can follow them.

Looking at the drawing and the modeled view of C and D, the skirt appears to be tapered below the hip.   But the skirt pattern is exactly like the drawing, straight from the hip to hem.  So without any changes, your garment will look like the illustration.

I made a few fit adjustments and as well as personal preference changes.  Being with the top, view C:

  • FBA using Sandra Betzina's Fast Fit.  Her FBA eliminates the bust dart that the standard FBA creates.
  • Reduced the neckband by 1/2".  My first version still does not fit as snug as the modeled version.  For the next version, I reduced it by 1.5".
  • Prominent shoulder blade adjustment (with shoulder dart).
  • Swayback adjustment and slightly forward shoulder adjustment to correct the shoulder seam alignment. 
  • Added a centered back seam for a better fit. 
  • Because of the added width created by the FBA and PSB adjustments, I had to eliminate the added width below the bust by grading down a few sizes.  That is not illustrated here. I only showed the initial adjustments. I typically make that adjustment as I sew.

  • Lengthen the sleeves by 2"
  • Tapered the cuffs for a more attractive look.
  • I also lengthen the top by a few inches.  But this was done on the pattern after this top was made. 
  • Cut my usual size at the waist and tapered below the hip to the hem.  This change also produced a more flatter look and the skirt looks more like the skirt worn by the model. 
This is a good basic pattern that you can get a lot of mileage out of once you've worked out the adjustments.  For that reason, I like it and will use it over and over again.  If you're teaching sewing, it's a good beginner pattern.  Students will come away with a stylish outfit that is very easy to sew.  For me, it's a nice wardrobe builder.  So far, I've made three versions of top, view C, and one of the skirt, view D.   Next week, I will post me wearing my first versions of views C and D.

In the meantime, hears a picture of the outfit on Rochelle (I named my dress form).

Happy Sewing!


  1. Yayyy! I love it when Mahogany Stylist shares her wisdom!

  2. Great post! Love all the detailed info!

  3. Excellent review of the pattern, and notes on your changes. The one Rochelle is modeling is very pretty.

    1. Thanks, Marjie. I really try to give a good review of the pattern, and how I made it work for me.

  4. I really like this combo and can't wait to see them other versions modeled on you. And doesn't everyone name their dressform?

    1. Thanks, Carolyn. The photos are coming soon. I'm still waiting for Mood blog post to publish. The second and third versions are posted though.

    2. BTW- I think everyone does name their dressform. ;-)

  5. I love hearing your input on the pattern and construction. I really think any straight skirt can benefit from tapering toward the hem. It is so easy to get the "frumpies if it falls straight from the hips. Thanks for pointing this out. It's lovely and I can't wait to see it on you.

    1. Thanks, Bunny. I think the pattern company should make them taper just because. It's a much better look. Thanks again.

  6. I love this I just stumbled across your blog and will be following continuously!

  7. Thanks for such a detailed post! I am an intermediate sewist and am always trying to get better at making pattern adjustments, so this is very helpful for me.

    xoKaelen |

    1. Kaelen, Excellent! I'm glad you found the information helpful. Thank you.

  8. I thought I recognized Sandra's fba method. I love the two piece dress; it's really elegant. It's a great sleeve.



Blog Widget by LinkWithin