This fabric is a Mood Exclusive Abstract Concepts Stretch Cotton. What drew me to it was the delicate outline of printed faces. I'd seen similar prints but would not seen them in a fabric store. So this one was just right for me. It's 97% cotton; 3% Elastane. The fabric has a slight sheen to it with a smooth hand. Easy sewing and pressing helps speed up the construction process. I used a universal sewing machine needle, size 12.
I it with Butterick B6674 which includes separate pattern pieces for cup sizes. A plus and is helpful to me. Because it decreases the amount a time I spent making pattern adjustments. The FBA is the most involved adjustment I made. Butterick pattern description: " A, B, C close fitting through bust, front self facings, sash, flared hem. A: Above mid knee length. B, C: Below mid knee length. C: Self ruffle. A/B, C, D Cup Sizes. D: Lined bag, bias tape seam finish. Note: Separate pattern pieces are included for cup sizes A/B, C, D." I used size 16 with some modifications.
This was the first garment that I made while in quarantine. I spent two days making this dress. The first, finishing everything except the buttonholes, buttons, and hem.
This is a very simple skirt waist dress. Another example of a fit and flare style. This style is very appealing to me. And I hope to make more similar dresses this year. The ruffled neckline adds a little more interest to a simple silhouette and no pockets because the print was enough of an attraction. So view C was perfect for my project.
My dress does look like the drawing, except I did not make a belt. I have a RTW belt that would be perfect for the dress. The instructions were typical but very easy to follow. No part of the dress requires interfacing. In general, a very quick sew.
Before I cut into my fashion fabric, I made a muslin. I actually made it last summer. So I tried it on again to make sure the fit was still okay. It was good. My usual pattern adjustments were also made last year. So I checked them again since I hadn't looked at this pattern in awhile.
My fit changes:
- Tweaked the D cup bodice pattern to fit.
- Lengthen the bodice a bit
- Swayback adjustment
- Prominent shoulder blade at the shoulder seam, which produced a little dart. I should have made it along the neckline. I think it would look better. Next time.
- Added a bit to the bodice back a the shoulder seam for my forward shoulders.
- Lengthen the skirt a bit
- The fabric was too thick to follow the construction of the ruffle. I decided to use Mood Italian Black Venise Lace trim . I cut the lace the length of the ruffle. Then I cut a piece of 1/4" black elastic the length of the finished neckline. Stretched and sewed the elastic to the lace. Then I sewed the trim to the neckline of the dress being careful not to stretch it. NOTE: A little stretching did occur, but it did not deform the neckline. It actually helped it lie flat with no gapping.
- For the neckline and armholes, I make bias tape from fashion fabric.
- I used hem tape and hem the dress by hand instead of machine stitching it as instructed.
I am very please with how this dress turned out. It is a classic silhouette. And I can see myself making it again. Next time with pockets and matching bag. Isn't that tote cute?
This is a relatively easy dress to make once you have gotten past your fit adjustments. You can also have some fun with trims to change it up a bit. I recommend this pattern to all level sewists. Have fun building your summer wardrobe. Now is the time if you are quarantined or on coronavirus lock down.
Happy Sewing!
C