Easy, Breezy Summer Dress - Simplicity S8735 and Simplicity S8637

There is nothing like a floaty, breezy summer dress.  This one has been in the making for two years.  Last week I finally finished it, and I am glad I did. 

 

Here again, I decided to use two different patterns to come up with the style that I wanted.  I used Simplicity S8735 for the bodice and Simplicity S8637 for the skirt and the flounce sleeve.  

I decided to use S8735 because it included different patterns for the cup sizes.  So all I needed to do was select my cup size and tweak it a little bit.  For the skirt, it was very easy.  No serious fit adjustments; just a little tweaking.  I used size 16 for both.  Both patterns are over six years old.  But they may be still in print. 

 

Because the bodice of S8735 is above the waist, my dress also sits above the waist.  That's something that you need to pay attention to if you're splicing patterns together.  

What I like about my new dress is:

• The wrap - I love a wrap dress.  Perfect for my body shape.
• Princess seam - easy to make fit adjustments.  In this case, having the different cup sizes made it even easier.
• The flounce on the skirt - Who doesn't love a full skirt dress. 
• The flounce of the sleeve - I wanted to try something a little different.  This is a cute style design.

No dislikes.

The fabric is from Mood Fabrics.  They may not have it in stock.  It's been in my collection for at least 4 years.  But I’m sure they have similar cottons that would look great in a summer dress.

 

I'll wear this fit and flare beauty as soon as an opportunity presents itself.

 

More sewing projects to come.  So stay tuned!

 

Happy Sewing,

C

Another Comfy Outfit with Vogue V1914 Tunic and Vogue V1929 Pants

This week I'm continuing with posts of projects completed.  It real really good to be back at sewing on a regular basis.  I wanted to wait to post this review with photos of me wearing it instead of having it on my dress form.  Is it me?  Many times I feel the dress form gives a poor representation of how the garment actually looks.  Or maybe I just need to breakdown and buy one of the professional dress form to drape my new outfits on.

Anyway, today’s post is another comfy outfit that I made using Vogue V1914 and V1929.  I'll begin with the tunic.  This is the very first time I used this pattern.  I bought it because of the top-view B.  So here goes with the pattern review.

Tunic

Pattern Description:   Slim fit V-neck cardigan has button front, and neckline facings.  Loose-fitting asymmetric tunic has long sleeves, uneven hemline, and stitched hems.  Wide leg pull-on pants have elastic waist with drawstring, self-tie, and stitched hems.  

Pattern Sizing:  The pattern comes in two size groupings (XS - M) and (L-XXL).  I used large with small modifications.  

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were easy to follow.  This tunic didn't go together like a typical knit top with front, back, and sleeve. The design lines change the way the a typical top would be sewn together.  So, it is very important to transfer all markings and to follow the construction process as indicated in the guide sheet.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the design lines:  the slight drape at the neckline and the back side drape, the uneven hemline, and the different sleeve design.  These elements make this tunic unique.  My dislike is the dropped shoulder seam.  I like the standard shoulder seam line because it looks the best on my broad shoulders.

Fabric Used: The fabric was purchased at New Rainbow Fabrics on Roosevelt Road in Chicago.  It is a lightweight ribbed knit that has a lot of drape and stretch.  

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  This is my wearable muslin.  Because of the many directions and sections to form the tunic, I opted not to try to make any fit adjustments.  Besides I didn't know how it would come together.  So once I had the tunic sewn together, enough to try on, I was able to see how and where adjustments could be made.  Surprisingly, I only needed to slim down the sides and the sleeves so it would not look floppy.  Also, one sleeve was slightly longer than the other.  Across the shoulder and bust area, the fit was good.  

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I may sew it one more time.  Yes, I do recommend it to others.

Conclusion: This is an interesting tunic with unique style lines.  I enjoyed making it and will enjoy wearing it.  It is worth a try.  

 

Next is my review of the pants

Pattern Description: Top and dress are loose-fitting through bust and have asymmetric off-the-shoulder necklines.  Both top and dress include extra-long sleeves with thumbhole cuffs and stitched hems.  Below-waist pull-on pants have elasticized waist and stitched hem.

 Pattern Sizing:  This pattern also comes in two size groupings (8-16) and (18-26).  I used size 16 with small modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Pretty much.  I added a waistband casing for the elastic.

Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions were typical and very easy to follow.  The pants sewed up like pajama pants.  

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked this style of pant (flared leg) better than the drawstring pants included in V1914.  My dislike was that the finished waist fell below the waistline.

Fabric Used:  Medium weight knit from New Rainbow Fabrics.  Nice weight and texture.  And no issues sewing it.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I made two changes:  lengthen the pant leg and added a waistband casing for the elastic.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I could use a few more pairs of pull-on pants using this pattern.  And yes I do recommend it to others.

Conclusion: These pants were very easy to sew much like the dress that I already made twice.  I love how the pants turned out.  I will get a lot of wear out of them.

 

Happy Sewing!

C

 

Many Sewing Projects All At Once

Good morning Sewing Friends,

I wanted to post a short update on the many projects that I am currently working on.  During the past few months, most of my sewing time has been on pattern fit adjustments and making muslins to check the fit to make sure it's good.  Often I do several fit adjustments at the same time.  Then once everything is good, I move to the next step of making the actual garments.

Today, I'm posting a few of the muslins that I've completed.  My hope is to post a "Note on a Pattern" and make the garment.  So, here is a preview of some of my upcoming projects.  

McCall M7978 - Blouse

Butterick B6915

Simplicity S9783

Vogue Dress V1929 - I Made Two

This is almost an all photo post.  It's took my awhile to get pictures, even though I've worn both dresses.  More the ever, my focus is on the event or activity vs. taking pictures of my wearing a new make.  Within a week I made a second dress.  This version is exactly the same as the first.  So here goes pictures of my wearing Vogue V1929.

Super Easy Knit Dress with Vogue V1929

Pattern Description:  Vogue V1929 - Top and dress are loose-fitting through bust and have asymmetric off-the-shoulder necklines. Both top and dress include extra-long sleeves with thumbhole cuffs and stitched hems. Below-waist pull-on pants have elasticized waist and stitched hem.

Pattern Sizing:  It comes in two size groupings (8-16) and (18-26).  I used size 16 with very few modifications as I sewed.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?   Yes it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Typical, but the instructions were super easy to follow.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I love the draped neck/shoulder and the seaming on the top and dress.  It was so easy to make this dress.  It only took about an hour and a half to sew.  

Fabric Used:  I purchased this texture knit from New Rainbow Fabrics on Roosevelt Road in Chicago.  It was on sale last Friday.  The fabric has a spongy knit texture/feel, like Liverpool knit.  I washed and dried the fabric.  It came out of the dryer wrinkle free and ready for me to cut into.  

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I didn't do alterations.  I didn't serge any seams, it knit.  No raveling.  For the hem of the sleeves and dress, I simply made a small hem.  Because I want to wear this dress to church, I did a little tack of the drape at the shoulder show that the entire shoulder isn't exposed.  I made one design change of omitting the lower half of the sleeve.  

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Oh yes,  I'll make this dress again.  Also, I have a pair of pants cut and ready to sew.  And yes, I do recommend this to all level sewists.

Conclusion: I really love the way this dress turned out.

 

 

Notes on a Pattern - Simplicity S9894 Part II

Hello Sewing Friends,

This is part 2 of fitting the corset of Simplicity S9894.  

I've made the second muslin.  It looks better.  With this muslin, I did the cup adjustments and lengthen the corset.  I wanted to see how it would look with those changes.  The upper front/neckline stands away from the body.  But a little tweaking can take care of that.

I will still raise the upper edge for more coverage, just a little.   And I'm thinking about adding boning to hold it in place.

Here are the second changes to the tissue pattern:

Stay tune.  part 3 coming soon!

Notes on a Pattern - Simplicity S9894

Hello Sewing Friends,

I've been working on multiple projects again. Lol.  This is not uncommon for a lot of us.  I’m pretty sure many of you are working on more than one thing.  

Anyway, today I’m starting a new series of posts for a new project, Simplicity S9894.  My focus is on the corset.  It can be used to mix and match with several different dress/skirt silhouettes. My desire is to get the very best possible fit.  

Luckily this pattern comes with multiple cup sizes to help make the full bust adjustment process a little less daunting. The pattern description follows:  Cropped corset top with bust cups has underwire for support. Skirt has a slightly lowered waist and is offered in two length variations. Top and skirt both have side zippers. Top has separate pattern pieces pattern for B, C, and D cup sizes for Miss and C, D, and DD cup sizes for Women.

Size: 10-12-14-16-18, 20W-22W-24W-26W-28W

I started my project with using size 18/Cup D.  Hoping that the bigger size would help me have an easier time fitting the bust.  But that wasn't the answer.  For my first muslin, size 18 was too large with a cup size that needed some work.  The finished garment measurement is spot on as far as what is indicated on the pattern.  So, I scaled back to a size 16 for the best fit around my body.

After that change, I was able to address the fit of the cup size.  I used my bra to help me determine the cup circumference.  

In the photo below see the blue marking that shows about where the wire in my bra cup corresponds with the shape of the corset.       

Note:  The muslin is not pretty especially on my dress form.

The shape of the cup was the next thing to address.  There is too much fullness/length at the apex.  I needed to round out the apex a bit. The photo below illustrates the adjustment made to address the change in the cup shape.

 

 

This first muslin is too short for my taste.  So, I will add about 1.25” to the hem.  And to the upper edge, I will add between 1.50" to 1" for a little more coverage.  

My planned pattern adjustment for the bust cup are below.  Of course, if you are planning to make this, your changes may be different.  I wanted to share my changes in hopes that it would help someone else work through the fitting process of this corset pattern.

The pink lines on the front and side front indicate the new curve line. Length extended.

The pink lines indicate the new edge of the bust cup. Width added to the circumference.

For the next muslin, I will address the cup size/shape and extend the length.

Happy Sewing!

C

Classic Black Jumpsuit - Butterick B6658

Good afternoon Sewing Friends,

I'm happy to be posting a review of my classic black jumpsuit project.  Last month I made this jumpsuit to wear to the stage play,  "Living All Alone," the Phyllis Hyman story.  It's been awhile since I sewed anything for a specific occasion.

 

I used Butterick B6658 to make it.  This pattern comes in multiple size groupings  6 to 14 and 14 to 22.  So the pattern has a very large range of sizes that sewists can work with.    

The description is, per the website, is as follows:   Wrap dresses and surplice front jumpsuit with sash are fitted through bodice with built-on shawl collar, hook and bar waist closure, and sleeve and length variations. A: Purchased belt. B: Sash, shaped hem. Wrong side of fabric will show. C: Sash, purchased bias tape for armhole, slash pockets. No provisions provided for above waist or hip adjustments. Note: Separate pattern pieces are included for cup sizes A/B, C, D. 

I used size 16 with some modifications, mostly tweaks as I sewed the jumpsuit together.  Overall, my jumpsuit looks similar to the jumpsuit  drawing on the envelope.  I did lengthen the sleeves and the pant leg.  Those are the most visible changes that I made.  But everything else is pretty much the same as the drawing.  One note is that it fits slightly big across the back and along the sides.  I think I could have used size 14.  I had to take it in some through the sides and I made deeper darts.  These adjustments were all part of the "tweaking" that I did while sewing the jumpsuit together.

The instructions were typical, nothing confusing in them. 

My fabric came from JoAnn's Fabrics.  It is a medium double knit that has a dry hand and a crepe like texture on the right side and a neoprene texture on the  wrong side.  I loved the look and the movement of the fabric.  I wished JoAnn's carried more colors.  I only saw it in black.  This is a great fabric for pull-on pants and skirts as well as jackets.

This pattern has been in my collection for several years.  It is a classic design that is timeless.  That is one of the reasons I decided to buy it.  Another reason is that it has multiple cup sizes included.  With the multiple cup size patterns I'm always hoping to save a little prep time.  Luckily, I was spared the process of doing my typical FBA adjustments. My other likes are the princess seams and that the pattern has pants or skirt options.

I really don't have any dislikes.  Again a word of caution with the overall fit is that the sizing appears to be larger than normal.

My changes:

• Lengthen the pants
• Lengthen the sleeves - I really wanted 3/4 length sleeves, but I didn't have enough fabric.
• Sway back adjustments
• Tweaking throughout the side seams
• Tweaking throughout the bust area
• Shorten the crotch length by 1/2"
• Adjustment of darts as I sewed

I was able to have an enjoyable sewing experience using the pattern and fabric.  Nothing fancy, just a classic comfort look for the theater.  Not sure if or when I would use this pattern again.  It is good to have classic patterns to choose from.  The bodice, pants, or skirt can be mixed or matched with other patterns to create a different look.  

I do recommend the pattern to others.  It is easy to sew.  

Happy Sewing!

C