The Shirt Project Continuous with McCall's ME2052

It's been almost a decade since I started my little "Shirt Project".  And I've made a variety of button down or button up shirts since it all begin.  The process is similar from shirt to shirt; but occasionally, there is something new and interesting about it.

Today's installation of "The Shirt Project" is McCall's Know Me ME2052.  It is designed by Beaute' J'Adore.  The point of interest is the longer sleeve double cuff.  

Pattern Description:  Misses' button down shirt with collar and collar stand.  It has longer sleeves with double cuff.  The pants are a jean style cropped pants with inlay patches on the front and back legs. 

Pattern Sizing:  I used a size 16 with very small modifications

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, it did.  


Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were pretty easy to follow.  I did a few things different.  

• Burrito method for completing the back yoke.
• Finished the top stitching on the front before completing the hem.
• I followed my own method for placing the buttons and buttonholes making the sure a button was placed at the fullness of my bust.  Then continuing with the rest at an appropriate spacing.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I really like the double cuff and the oversize style.   

Fabric Used:  The fabric was purchased at the Discount Warehouse on west 21st in Chicago,  It has been in my stash for a year or so.  I bought is to make a shirt. I pre-washed and dried it shortly after I purchased it.  So, it was ready to sew when I pulled it from my stash.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I really didn't change much.  I just added my usual inch to the sleeve length.  NOTE:  these sleeves fall slightly over the hand.  

Next time:  I will interface half of each cuff to reduce thickness.  Also, I'll reduce the circumference of the collar.   

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes and yes.  I already have another cotton blend ready to cut and sew.  

Conclusion: I enjoyed making this shirt.  I also, recommend it to others.  It is an average sewing level shirt.  Great wardrobe builder with a unique twist.

Happy Sewing!

C

Vogue V1786 -Minerva Navy and Black Jacquard Shirt

I'm happy to share photos of my latest make: Vogue V1786,  a new pattern from the spring 2021 collection. Loved how it turned out. 

Here is a link to my Minerva profile that contains the rest of my review. The previous post included the details on the pattern adjustments. 

Happy Sewing!

C

Catching Up

 Good evening everyone,

This is the first time I've attempted to write a blog post since my accident with the hedge clippers.  I'll skip the details.  The good thing is I'm all right.  Anyway, I had a few potential blog posts that got derailed the day of my incident.  It does take forever to type out a post on my computer.  So for a while my posts will be abbreviated. 

I just made another blog anniversary. Fourteen years of blogging on July 4, 2021. It doesn't feel like fourteen years have past. 

Today I'm posting a photo from my first pattern review. I made the faux leather outfit with fabric purchased from Walmart. The second half of the picture is my most recent outfit made with fabric from Minerva Fabrics of the UK.. 

It has been a wonderful journey. I am so happy I chose to start blogging.  It has so many benefits. I seen growth in my ability;  an opportunity to share with others who love what I do; I've gained a host of new friends; I've had opportunities to share my knowledge with others as well as an opportunity to learn from some great sewists. These are just a few benefits.

In the coming days I'm hoping to publish a few short posts on some projects that were near completion or in the works. 

I found a Threads Magazine Youtube video titled, "Pattern Adjustment for a Full Bust Without a Dart."  Excellent tutorial and I used it for two projects that I will post soon.  

Initially, I was going to do my own tutorial based on my own measurements and projects.  But I decided not to "reinvent the wheel".   Posting Threads video is easier.  My reason for wanting a dartless FBA  is to maintain the original pattern design as much as possible and/or to use striped fabrics without disrupting the flow of the stripes with a dart.  I hope that makes sense.

My first project is Simplicity S9222.  I'm still working on this one.  The dartless FBA does not interfere with the drape of the top of the dress.  This is one I decided to make after seeing Carol Crocker-Ware's dress that she posted on Patternreview.  My dress is coming soon.  

The second project I used the dartless FBA on is Vogue V1786.  I love this shirt and think it is great in a striped fabric.  My July Minerva project is using this pattern and a navy/black jacquard.  The jacquard is double layered where the navy stripes appear.  On the reverse side of the navy, it is black, and the reverse side of the black is navy.  So you can use either side of the fabric. Early June, I made a medium blue pair of slacks to wear with this shirt using Simplicity S9147 again. 

This project is actually finished, but I want pictures of me wearing the outfit before I post my final review. ;-)

That's all for today.  Happy Sewing!

C

The Shirt Project 2020 - Simplicity S1166 In Review

The making of these three shirts is the beginning of my second Shirt Project.  About two weeks ago, I found the shirts in a bag while inventorying my UFO bin.  Everything was already cut and marked.  All I needed to do was sew them.  This was the perfect project to finish while I wait for my button order to arrive.

I made this shirt once before, but I didn't do a full pattern review.  So today I'd like to share my thoughts on this pattern. 

Simplicity almost never gives a good description of the pattern views. For this one they just said, "Misses' blouse, skirt, and bra top.  How vague is that?

My description for view B - Misses' blouse with dolman like 3/4 length cuffed sleeves with wide collar and curved hem.

The pattern comes in sizes 6 to 24. The sizes are grouped: 6-14  and 16-24.  I used size 14 with modifications.

This drawing and the envelope photo do not match.  The drawing is the same silhouette as my blouse, but the blouse on the model is different.  Either the blouse she is wearing  is three sizes too big or the pattern design is for an all together different pattern than what is provided in the envelope.

The instructions were easy, and I didn't see anything confusing in them.  I did make some fit adjustments and minor changes for my versions.

My likes:

• Sleeve design
• Wide collar
• Cuffs

No real dislikes other than the misinterpretation of the design modelled on the envelope.

I used three different fabrics from three different sources:

• Iridescent Blue Kaufman Greenwich Chambray Cotton is from Fabric.Com. Love this fabric.  It has a teal undertone.  It is super soft.  I ordered this one two years ago.  And it was what I requested plus the end of the bolt pieces.  So they probably don't have this one anymore. Striped Cotton Blend is from Vogue Fabrics in Evanston, Illinois.  Beautiful fabrication: sews, presses, and wears very well.  This one has been in my fabric collection for years.  
• White 100% Pima Cotton Broadcloth from Mood Fabrics.  This fabrication is soft to the touch and great to sew.  But it does wrinkle easy, typical cotton shirting.  This fabric is available on Mood's website.

The pattern alterations are some of my usual adjustments:  FBA plus I lowered the bust dart; and I lengthen the blouse about a few inches.

Design/Construction changes:  I did something a little different for each blouse

• White - No top-stitching except for the cuffs.  I didn't do a rolled hem.  I serged, turned and sewed the hem.  Added darts to the back.  Stitched in the ditch of the shoulder seams instead of tacking the facing to it.
• Stripe - Followed the instructions except for the hem and tacking the facing to the shoulder seams.  The collar design change for this one was due to limited amount of striped fabric.  I didn't have enough for both upper and lower collars.  So I used some of the white pima for the under collar.
• Blue - Same as the stripe blouse. No design change.

So far I've made a total of four blouses using this pattern.  Why stop now?  I can see myself using it again.  And I do recommend it to others.  It's an easy sew.  All level sewists can enjoy making this blouse.

I noticed a few areas where I could tweak the fit a little more.  But overall I'm pretty pleased with how these turned out. They are good wardrobe staples and will be in high rotation.  Perfect pairing with jeans and pull-on pants.  

My tips:

Buttonholes
Collar

My first blouse made 2016.

Side Note:  Whenever I make shirts, I include at least one white one.  You can never have too many. ;-)


Happy Sewing!
C

Summertime Fun Skirt - Mood Exclusive Coffee and Cars Cotton Voile and 6326-C

This is such a fun skirt!   It's trendy, light and floaty.  Perfect for summertime.  When I first saw Mood's Coffee and Cars Cotton Voile, I simply had to have it.  I did not know what to make at first.  But it didn't take long to figure it out.

The online video clip suggest a blouse with a high weighted pair of shorts.  A shirt was a typical garment.  And that's usually cool with me.  But I decided to make a skirt.  Now, this fabrication is very light and transparent.  I lined it with a White Cotton Voile, also from Mood.  The two of the them together add body and modesty.

For my skirt, I used B6326, view C.  I used my usual size, lengthening it a few more inches.  I didn't make any other changes.  It was easy, easy, simple.  Nothing confusing or difficult in the construction.

I paired my  new skirt with one of my shirts from "The Shirt Project" (last year).  This is the first time posting pictures of the completed shirt.  It's also made with Mood fabric, Italian White Stretch Cotton Shirting.  Sorry it's no longer available at Mood.  There are many other options still available.

I used Vogue 8747 for three of my shirts.  Here is a link.

Sorry, no outside photos.  I did the photo shoot just as the sun was starting to set.  So I took the pictures inside.  And I forgot to  change my shoes.  Oops.  Anyway, the close-ups shows off this really cute print.  It's a winner.

Happy Sewing!
C

White After Labor Day

When I was growing up, wearing white after Labor day was one of the biggest fashion faux pas.  These days people are wearing whatever anytime of year.    Fashion is anything at anytime of year!  Believe it or not, I'm still a little jaded when it comes to certain fashion faux pas.

Today's post is about two white fabrics that I purchased this summer from Mood Fabrics:  Helmut Lang Optic White Tissue Weight Cotton Poplin  and Soft White Stretch Blended Cotton Jacquard.  Both textile were great to work with.  There is something special about working with natural fibers.  Cottons are easy to sew, press and super comfortable to wear.

My shirt is part of a "Shirt Project" that I completed this summer for a Haute Couture Club presentation. I used Simplicity 8416 to make, and the contrasting fabric was gifted to me by one of our generous club members, Andrea Birken.   I made no fit adjustments for this shirt.  But I wanted to add a little color to it.  Threads magazine, published an article on customizing your shirt.  This is where I got the idea to add the contracting fabric details.   Check out the details.

The pants are Burda 6879.  This is my third pair of pants made with it.  My reviews are here.  All of them have been made with Mood Fabrics.   For this pair, I made the pants wider for a more relaxed fit.  

So what are your feeling about wearing white?  

Happy Sewing!

C

I Was A Presenter at the Haute Couture Club of Chicago - September 2017

Oops, I'm smiling too hard again! Trying one on over my dress.

I planned to blog that I was the presenter for the Haute Couture Club of Chicago September 2017 meeting the day after; instead, I waiting nearly two weeks before attempting to say anything.   My initial thought was to moved forward with finishing or starting other projects.  For most of the summer, I sewed mostly shirts in an effort to show different styles for the presentation and am ready to work on some different garments. But today I decided to do one last summer post on shirts. 

I am truly thankful to the HCC Board of Directors and the members for allowing me to present, sharing my shirt making adventure.  Indeed, it was an honor and privilege.  Close to the end of my journey, I questioned whether or not I had enough to talk about and if I was worthy to present to this very talented group of sewists.  So, of course, I was a little nervous.  But as it turned out, my presentation was well received; and the members will make shirts to wear to the Holiday luncheon in December.

So here are a few more pictures from the presentation, courtesy of Susan Gerbosi.

My shirts were passed around for closer looks

 Near the beginning of my talk, I showed this Cennetta creation from my very early sewing days (1974) when I first started sewing on a machine.

My shirts pile at the end of my presentation.

Now that the presentation is over, my palette is clean, and I'm moving forward with finishing some other projects and planning for some new ones.

Thank you to everyone who continues to stop by my little corner of the cyberspace.  I hope I didn't put you on shirt overload.  And a very special thanks to the HCC Board of Directors and members.

Happy Sewing!
C