The Shirt Project 2020 - Simplicity S1166 In Review

The making of these three shirts is the beginning of my second Shirt Project.  About two weeks ago, I found the shirts in a bag while inventorying my UFO bin.  Everything was already cut and marked.  All I needed to do was sew them.  This was the perfect project to finish while I wait for my button order to arrive.

I made this shirt once before, but I didn't do a full pattern review.  So today I'd like to share my thoughts on this pattern. 

Simplicity almost never gives a good description of the pattern views. For this one they just said, "Misses' blouse, skirt, and bra top.  How vague is that?

My description for view B - Misses' blouse with dolman like 3/4 length cuffed sleeves with wide collar and curved hem.

The pattern comes in sizes 6 to 24. The sizes are grouped: 6-14  and 16-24.  I used size 14 with modifications.

This drawing and the envelope photo do not match.  The drawing is the same silhouette as my blouse, but the blouse on the model is different.  Either the blouse she is wearing  is three sizes too big or the pattern design is for an all together different pattern than what is provided in the envelope.

The instructions were easy, and I didn't see anything confusing in them.  I did make some fit adjustments and minor changes for my versions.

My likes:

• Sleeve design
• Wide collar
• Cuffs

No real dislikes other than the misinterpretation of the design modelled on the envelope.

I used three different fabrics from three different sources:

• Iridescent Blue Kaufman Greenwich Chambray Cotton is from Fabric.Com. Love this fabric.  It has a teal undertone.  It is super soft.  I ordered this one two years ago.  And it was what I requested plus the end of the bolt pieces.  So they probably don't have this one anymore. Striped Cotton Blend is from Vogue Fabrics in Evanston, Illinois.  Beautiful fabrication: sews, presses, and wears very well.  This one has been in my fabric collection for years.  
• White 100% Pima Cotton Broadcloth from Mood Fabrics.  This fabrication is soft to the touch and great to sew.  But it does wrinkle easy, typical cotton shirting.  This fabric is available on Mood's website.

The pattern alterations are some of my usual adjustments:  FBA plus I lowered the bust dart; and I lengthen the blouse about a few inches.

Design/Construction changes:  I did something a little different for each blouse

• White - No top-stitching except for the cuffs.  I didn't do a rolled hem.  I serged, turned and sewed the hem.  Added darts to the back.  Stitched in the ditch of the shoulder seams instead of tacking the facing to it.
• Stripe - Followed the instructions except for the hem and tacking the facing to the shoulder seams.  The collar design change for this one was due to limited amount of striped fabric.  I didn't have enough for both upper and lower collars.  So I used some of the white pima for the under collar.
• Blue - Same as the stripe blouse. No design change.

So far I've made a total of four blouses using this pattern.  Why stop now?  I can see myself using it again.  And I do recommend it to others.  It's an easy sew.  All level sewists can enjoy making this blouse.

I noticed a few areas where I could tweak the fit a little more.  But overall I'm pretty pleased with how these turned out. They are good wardrobe staples and will be in high rotation.  Perfect pairing with jeans and pull-on pants.  

My tips:

Buttonholes
Collar

My first blouse made 2016.

Side Note:  Whenever I make shirts, I include at least one white one.  You can never have too many. ;-)


Happy Sewing!
C

Christine Jonson Travel Trio Three 226 - Shirred Top

I'm still playing catch up with some pattern reviews and recent projects.  Real life, September and October were quite eventful to say the least.  So, I have a bit of a back log of things to blog about.  It almost always feel like I'm "catching up".

Today I'm review Christine Jonson's Travel Trio Three 226 - shirred tee.  Way back in 2012, I thought this was super cute but was concerned that shirred above the bust and how it may look on me.  My suspicions were right.  Not a good look on me.   So I decided to gift my sister.  It's a good look on her.

The tee is not a wader, just not good on me.  So that being said, here is my pattern review.

This tee is part of a mini wardrobe travel wardrobe pattern.  You can get the complete description here.  For the shirred tee, I simply copied the description from the CJ website.

Shirred Turtleneck/Raglan Tee: This top has long raglan sleeves and shirred yoke. It is designed to be close-fitting so that the bodice gathers will stretch tight vertically. The pattern also includes an alternative front pattern piece for a smooth and simple raglan top.  Multi-sized 4-22. I used size 16 only lengthening the sleeves.


My version does look like the drawing as far as style lines.  The striped fabric was a remnant from a dress that I made last year.  It was just enough for the back and sleeves.  The black and striped knit fabrics came from FabricMart Fabrics.

The shirring adds a few minutes more to the amount of time it takes to complete a basic tee.  The instructions were easy, nothing confusing about them.

I really like the shirred yoke.  That's what drew me to the pattern.   The fit of the turtleneck is spot on.  It's snug but not too snug, no drooping, just right.  I'm going to try the other tee view to see if it's a better look for me.  Hopefully, I won't need to gift another to my "happy to receive it" sister. ;-)

I do recommend this pattern to others sewists of all levels.  It's an easy one.  Both tee are perfect for wardrobe building.  The complement of this wardrobe pattern is cute too.  At some point, I will try those views as well.

That's all for now.  Have a great day!

Happy Sewing,
C

Simplicity 8643 - My First Knit Top of 2019

This top is actually the forth garment made in 2019.  I'll be posted the rest soon, but I want to get some picture of me wearing them.  Anyway, the pattern is  "quick sew" T-shirt "like tops.  The two differences are:  the asymmetric hem and the front pleating.  These are the two details that convinced me to purchase the pattern.

Simplicity describes this pattern as:  misses' knit top featuring asymmetrical hems with optional cold-shoulder, contrasting sleeve, 3/4 sleeve, or sleeveless view.  I made view D with sleeve from view C.  It's comes in multi- XXS to XXL.  I used between size M and L with some modifications.

My finished top did look like the modeled top, only a more fitted with sleeves.  It's winter, for real, in the mid-west.  So sleeves are the best optional.

The instructions are super easy to follow.  The pleating along the center front are just simple tucks with a line of stitches to hold them in place.  Nothing complicated about making them.  I traced the stitching and pleat lines onto the fabric.  Then pinned the pleats in place and stitched.  All done in less the two minutes.

There is nothing to dislike.  It's basically a modified t-shirt pattern with center pleats.  As I stated earlier, I like the pleats and the hemline. My other like is the neckband.  It looks great if I say so myself. ;-)

My knit fabric was purchased from Marcy Tilton online fabric store.  She really has some great knits.  This particular textile is no longer available, but there are other fabulous knits that you can purchase.  This knit has 4-way stretch with great recovery.  I can't remember the fiber content. Sorry.

I only made a few changes.  For this top, I skipped my regular FBA just to see if will with work/fit.  Instead I cut between M and L at the  half way mark on the front armhole and extended the side edges to the large size in the bust area. Then tapered back to between the M and L sizes.

For the back, I did do a swayback adjustment and created a center back seam.  This works well for me.

I forgot to lengthen the sleeves before cutting them out.  So I added a 1.5 inch sleeve band to compensate for the shortage.

Update - I forgot to add that I shorten the neckband by 2.5" to get it to lay flat.

I almost always fail to mention that I use stitch witchery or steam a seam to finish the hem.  Both of these notions are a must have in my sewing notion drawer.  I keep plenty of both on hand.

This is a good top to sew to help build your staple wardrobe.  I will pair this top with some slim knit pants or leggings.  To complete the outfit during these bone chilling days, I'll throw on a cardigan to fight back the cold.

I am very pleased with how my top turned out and may use this pattern again.  Yes, I also recommend it to others, beginners and advanced sewers.

Happy Sewing!
C

Notes of a Patterns - Vogue 9205 Knit Top with Neck Darts

This is just a simple t-shirt pattern with neck darts.  You can probably make it using a t-shirt pattern that you already own.  I guess I could have too, but I didn't want to take the time to make the adjustments.

Anyway, you would think that the darts would add enough through the rest of the top to compensate for other fitting issues that may cause the top to fit too tight around the body.  But when I examined the measurements, I found that it would still be necessary to do a FBA.  I did not to add bust dart given that the top already had six darts for a design element.  Again, I was feeling a little lazy about making more adjustments.  So I made the first one with the bust darts to see how it would look.

The pattern comes in sizes 4 to 26.  It can be used to beef up your wardrobe with staple t-shirts.  And it's not limited to the sleeves that come with it.  You can pair other sleeves with it as well.

One of the things that I like about Vogue simple t-shirt type patterns is that they come with a neckband.  And I've found the fit around the neck is not as wide as some of the other commercial patterns.   For this one I did found the the length of the shoulder seam is too long.  I think I shaved off about 3/4 inch for a better fit.

Below is my FBA on the pattern along with the back adjustments.  I didn't make the adjustment to the shoulder length until after I tried on the top minus the sleeves.  To secure the neck darts, I pull the end threads to the wrong side of the top and tied a knot.  Also, I created a center back seam by just adding seam allowance to the center back.

As you can see the bust dart doesn't look bad.  They provide the needed shaping in the bust area for a good fit.

The sleeves look a little wacky, but they are fine.

This is a super easy top to sew, outside of making sure the neck darts are the same length on left and right sides of the top.  I glanced at the instructions, not spending time to read them.  I will probably make several more of this t-shirt.  It's great under jackets and cardigans or by its self with your favorite pair of jeans.

It's easy and sews up really fast.  I recommend it to beginners to advanced sewists.

Happy Sewing!
C

Simplicity 4076 - The Pattern That Keeps on Giving

I've used Simplicity 4076 at least ten times making the various views, especially the t-shirt view with the gathered neckline.  This is a pattern that keeps on giving.  My latest top made was a much needed neutral top that could be worn with a few coordinates in my closet.  Here it is pictured with a faux fur vest that I got for Christmas.

Staples: Complete A Wardrobe - Simplicity 4020

This next review is on Simplicity 4020. This is an oldie, but goody. The published date is 2006. Many of you have already made these tops or have the pattern in your collection. I've made Views B, D, and C with the most recent being View C. I consider these staple knit tops, especially, View C.

For the description, I will let the illustration speak for itself. The only thing I'll add is that the fabric used needs to have 30 percent stretch. The sizing is 4 to 20. I've used 12 and 14 over the years. The drawings give an accurate representation of the design lines for each top.

As far as the instructions, easy. Very simple and easy to follow. My likes are:

Pictured wearing a self-drafted skirt, slightly higher in the front (January 2014)

• Simple casual tops that can be worn to work under a cardigan or jacket. They can also be worn on the weekend with jeans or knit pants.

• Sews up quickly.

I used knits from Vogue Fabrics for all three tops made. This first one shown is View C with a self-draft skirt. Also, pictured with M5818 pant (TNT).

The next top shown is View B in a sweater knit; the pants are Simplicity 2315. (This pictures was taken Christmas 2012.)

I only made a FBA for View C; shown here, Simplicity 2594.

My favorite these days is View C. I may make it again. And I would recommend trying to pattern. It's easy; it sew up fast; and can be used as a staple in your wardrobe.