Butterick 5214 - Vintage

Pattern Description:
MISSES’ JACKET, DRESS AND BELT: Fitted, unlined jacket has collar and lapels, extended shoulders forming cap sleeves and shaped hem. Below mid-knee dress has fitted, self-lined, halter bodice with buttonhole and button closing, flared skirt, left side seam zipper and right side seam pocket. Belt has buckle with prong and eyelets.

Pattern Sizing: 8- 24. I made size 14 with some modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? The instruction were easy to follow. Nothing confusing.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the vintage style of the dress. The contour of the bodice and the "V" neckline of the halter. I also favored the shape of the jacket. It has a little peplum affect at the waist, which adds to the hips I barely have.

Fabric Used:I used a lightweight floral pique for the dress and and medium weight stretch pique for the jacket. Both purchased from Vogue Fabric on Roosevelt Rd.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:This is my wearable muslin. The dress bodice needs a little tweaking in the bust and back area. I also need to remove excess fabric below the collar bone to the crease of my armpit on the jacket. Here are the changes made on this version.
The Dress:
- I opt not to do a FBA; instead I added 3/4 inch to the front and back of the bodice. Most of the added width was removed to correct the gapping between the bust and underarm area. I eventually remove most of the excess, but some gapping remained. So I ease the area above the bust.

-I added small waist dart to remove some of the width. I still have drag marks from the bust to the waist.

On the next version I will make a slash at the waist area on the bodice to create a larger waist dart and eliminate the excess width above the bust area. Also needed is a sway back adjustment. I noticed a few wrinkles across the back.


- To help hold the back bodice in place, I sewed elastic to the seam line after I understitched the bodice lining.

- Instead of turning up 1 1/2 inch hem, I machine stitched a rolled hem. And added two inches to the bottom.

The Jacket:

-I slashed through the neck and front dart; then spread the pattern 1" for additional move in the bust areas. This required me to make deeper darts. There is a slight pulling in the area.



-Also made a broad shoulder adjustment to the back.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I plan to make this again in a silk dupioni. But wanted to try it in a less expensive fabric before making the final version. And yes, I would recommend it to others with modifications.

Conclusion: This is a easy pattern to sew. But alterations may be needed depending on your body shape.

Simplicity 3530 - DD's Second Choice

This is a Project Runway pattern that my DD just loves. She actually wants a few more versions of this versatile dress.

Pattern Description: This dress or tunic has a banded scoop or notched neckline and the latest tucking detail on the bodice. The fashion focus is on sleeves as there are several variations.


Pattern Sizing: sizes 4- 22. I made a size 10 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Based on the combinations of yokes and sleeves, yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes. Nothing difficult noted.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? DD and I liked the versatility of this pattern. You can achieve multiple looks using the sleeve and yoke variations. Nothing to dislike.

Fabric Used: Cotton Eyelet - Vogue Fabrics - Evanston, IL. Very nice piece of fabric.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:The eyelet had a very nice scalloped border that I incorporated into the design of the dress, using it at the sleeve and dress hem.


The other alterations were to address fitting issues. So I altered the front and back dress and yoke pieces.





Finally, I added darts to the center of each dress back. Without the darts the dress stands away from her body.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?Yes and yes. At my DD's request. ;-)

Conclusion: Nice trendy style that would compliment a variety of body types. Easy to sew. During the time it took to sew, I listened to three CD's.

M5378 for My DD

My DD has only asked for two dresses this summer. Surprise! Surprise! She purchased the linen for the McCall's dress. Next I'm working on having her cut the paper pattern. lol


Here's the first in review:

Pattern Description: MISSES’/MISS PETITE DRESSES IN TWO LENGTHS, BELT AND SASH: Dresses A, B, C have close-fitting bodice, front and back darts, self-faced yoke, collar, skirt and sleeve variations; dress A has gathered sleeve with pleats, sleeve band and self belt; dress B has long sleeve and contrast sash; dresses A, B are A-line and below mid-knee length; dress C is slightly flared, above ankle length with purchased belt.

Pattern Sizing: Size 6 to 22. I made a size 10 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow?The instructions were reasonable. A beginner could easily follow them.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? My DD picked this pattern last Spring. Shirt dresses are in this season. DD liked the puff sleeves and the skirt waistline of this dress.

Fabric Used:navy linen.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I did not make a muslin for this dress. I thought I could get it right without going through that process. I normally have to make a broad shoulder and a sway back alterations. So before cutting into the fashion fabric, I paper pattern fit the bodice of the dress.



- Need add to about a 1/4 inch to the CF.








- Back and side views looked pretty good, but I added 1/4" to the shoulder length for good measure.

- I increased the depth of the front waist dart by an 1/8" for a better fit.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? DD would like another dress with long sleeves for the fall. Yes I would recommend it to others.

Conclusion: This is a nice shirt dress with sleeve variations that would be a great address to any wardrobe.

New Look 6429 - Great Pattern

This pattern has been reviewed multiple times on PR. There is no doubt that it is a favorite of many. This is the second time around from me. My first dress was in a yellow matte jersey.

Pattern Description: Mock wrap dress with sleeve , collar, and self belt variations. Somewhat A-line and mid-knee length. At small of the back the bodice is finished at a point.

Pattern Sizing: The sizes are from 8 to 18. I made a size 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes. I did make a few changes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?Yes. There was nothing difficult about the construction of this dress. I would recommend it to beginners.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like everything about this pattern. The dress is stylish and very comfortable. Not to mention I am fan of wrap dresses. It gives the illusion of a wrap dress without added effort. It's versatile; you can add the tie and/or the collar with three sleeve variations. Nothing to dislike.

Fabric Used: Last winter I purchased the fabric from Ann's Gorgeous Fabrics. It a jersey (Turquoises/Blues/Black). Can't remember the fiber content. It has more stretch than your typical matte jersey. It has a soft hand and wears with the greatest of ease.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I made only a few minor alterations.
- Added four inches to the length.
- Lengthen the shoulder seams by 1/2 inch to the front and back pieces and added about 1/2 to the side bodice front seam in the bust area.
- Added the self tie to view C.
- Hemmed 1 inch instead of 1/4 inch.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
For sure. This is a very nice dress and a great pattern to add to any wardrobe and/or collection. I strongly recommend it.

Conclusion: This is a great addition to any wardrobe. It easy to wear and stylish. It can be dressed up or down. I would recommend it to beginners.

Vogue 1015 - Waiting for Event Photos

I'm still waiting for the event photos. Ms. CB sent one, but it was really grainy. I'll give it a few more days. Then I'll use what I already have to post the complete and final review here and on PR.

Mama's Garden

On Wednesday afternoon I had the pleasure of beholding the beauty of my mama's garden. She has a little bit of everything. My mom was born in Huntsville, AL. Then my grandmother migrated to Chicago bringing my mother along with. She loves gardening and fishing. Every year she plants an array of vegetables, sometimes fruit. My sisters and I are some of the benefactors of her bountiful harvest. Here's a peak.

What the Mailman Brought

The Mailman brought a few little goodies. The Summer Issue of BWOF has a lot of great fashion as always. (I need to plant myself at the table to trace off several patterns from recent issues.)



I received my August issue of Maire Claire, which features Maggie Gyllenhaal who stars in the new Batman movie, The Dark Knight. This is all about fall fashion. The short of it is:

Making a fashion statement

• Florals mixed with unusual textures
• Extra modern shapes makes lace sexy
• Pants are super-baggy or super-tight
• Color me purple
• Feminine plaid and tweed
• Don't forget to ruffle your feathers

and

• Add some sculptural points of view

BTW - The Dark Knight was spectacular! Heath Ledger by far the brightest star.



My friend Toni sent me a copy of Grandmaster Flash's book. I plan to read it while on vacation next week. Thank you Toni. Much appreciated.