Monday, June 23, 2014

Notes on a Pattern - Vogue 8727 View F Fitting



Good afternoon all,

Today's installation of Notes on a Pattern is on fitting Vogue 8727.  This was one of the patterns I took to the Palmer/Pletsch workshop in 2012.

At the time of the initial fit, I thought using a size 16 was just too big.  In some ways it still is, but in was the correct size to start the fit process.  When this pattern was published, I knew someday I would make views C and/or F.  I liked the vintage look of it and the skirt variations.  The midriff is also a style element that I am fond of because it offers an opportunity to create definition between my bust line and my waist and hip areas.

For the most part, the dress looks like the illustration on the envelope.  It is hard to determine this from the dress on the model because of the fabric print.  Many times I use the guide sheet as a point of reference.  But this time it does not properly illustrate the peak on the midriff.  It does not start at a point; it is more rounded.  

I've used the straight skirt in a previous post.  There were no challenges with that.  My biggest fit issues are in the torso: across the neck, bust, and upper back.  So today I will review my process for making the full bust, prominent shoulder blade, and sway back adjustments.

NOTE:  These changes were recommended for me personally.  Remember each person's body measurements and shape is different.  So you may be able to use some of this information to help you address your unique body measurements and  shape.

The photo below shows the adjustments made in 2012 after Marta Alto helped me with fitting the bodice.  We started the process with examining the back then worked our way to the front of the bodice.


After we noted all of the front bodice adjustments, we made a few more changes to the back to match the length of the midriff and bodice.

Back Bodice and Midriff - For the prominent shoulder blades. I added 3/4" to the width of the back bodice and the back midriff.  At the shoulder, I added a dart so that the shoulder of the back and front match.  

Front Bodice and Midriff - The front has some serious pattern hacking going on.  I used the "Y"  version of the FBA because the width needed was more than and 1".  As you can, the length was added in the middle and at the bottom of the front bodice.  The width of the second leg of the "Y" was added to the midriff.

Now onto step 3 -  Making a muslin just to double check the adjustments.

I don't always make a muslin, but there are times when you simply cannot achieve good results without one or two.

The center front bodice was gapping a little and required me to take it in a little. The FBA was fine.



At the center front, the seam allowance is 7/8" and ends at 5/8" where the center of the midriff is sewn. There are no other changes after the full bust adjustment.

On the right side, about an inch down from the armhole I had to increase the seam allowance from 1/8" to 7/8" through the midriff.  For the sway back I practically, folded out the added length across the right back and 3 inches into the right side of the front bodice.



On the left side, I needed to take in the entire length of the side seam allowance 7/8".  Then I removed about 3/4"(at center back) to 1/2" (at side back) of the added length across the left back and two inches into the left side of the front bodice.   The lower center back seam was about 2" deep.  The next step was to adjust the back.


To improve the look of the center back, I increase the depth of the waist darts.  


The differences in the left and right bodice required me to make two front bodices and two back bodices to get a better fit.  Those changes are below:





My right side is slightly shorter and wider than the left.  My sway back is related to scoliosis in the lower part of my back.  I only recently found out that I had this condition.   Oh well, that's life. 

I hope this information is helpful to you.  I believe most of us need to make some adjustments to patterns before we cut into our fashion fabric.  Women with curves are not the only ones who need to make adjustments.  A pattern may be too short or too long in different areas.  It is worthwhile to test the fit and make adjustments.  Sometimes it takes awhile to finally achieve the fit that is correct and  comfortable for you.  So it may take multiple muslins to get to that point.  

Until next time, happy fitting and sewing!

Cennetta

 

4 comments:

  1. Looking forward to the end results!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Thank you for this detailed post! We are almost the same body size and shape, and I usually have to make those same adjustments. And I've seen your pics of the finished dress...love it!

    ReplyDelete
  3. Thanks, McCall and Patty.
    C
    Patty-you must be following on the Mood Blog. Thanks.

    ReplyDelete
  4. My favourite type of post: fitting nitty-gritty. Thanks, Cennetta!

    ReplyDelete

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