Wednesday, June 20, 2018

Notes on Two Patterns - Vogue 1498 and McCall 7775

Good afternoon everyone!

I wanted to share some thoughts on upcoming sewing projects.  Today's Notes on "Two" Patterns is about two dresses I plan to make during the spring/summer 2018.  Monday I spent time anaylzing and fitting patterns for my summer wardrobe.  So far, I'm working on two color palettes: one is black and white with a little color here and there and the two shades of green.  These are the basic colors for the wardrobe capsules.  I'm still trying to work out the garment types for each capsule.  So that's a work in process.

I bought McCall 7775 and Vogue 1498.  They have similar upper body style, right?  Yes and no.  McCall's 7775, views A/B are just one front pattern piece, but Vogue 1498 has a two piece bodice front and a front slim skirt.

McCall's 7775- I was skeptical about trying the views A/B because of the neck and bust area.  There is possible gapping at the neck.  The finished bust for size 16 is 40.5".  I need a little more width. I put the pattern against my body to see how it would fit my upper body.  The armhole area is low, the apex was close to the center front seam instead of the center of the pattern piece, and not enough width.  Definitely there are adjustments needed.   Then, I examined views C/D.  The fullness of the bust area for the same size was a few inches wider.  These views have pleats in the neck area, which gives more volume throughout the dress.  I like this view too, but was more interested in making view A/B first.    So back to view A/B.  Initially, I hated the idea of making a FBA.  But it was the only way I could have a dress that fits well.

My next step is to make the required adjustment.

  • I slashed and spread the front dress the desired amount, which includes some wearing ease.
  • The resulting change created a bust dart.  I rotated it slightly, because I think this location looks a little better than a horizontal bust.
  • This change created width as well as length.
  • I added to the armhole area to bring it closer to the pit of my arm.
  • The front facing also required the same adjustments as the front dress.  I used the front dress pattern as a guide to make those changes.  The picture below shows the front facing over the front dress.

Back adjustments.

  • There is a center back seam, which is great for me.  So I didn't have to add one for the swayback adjustment.
  • No prominent shoulder blade adjustment as most of the shoulder area is exposed.  Will see how that works after the muslin fit.
  • Swayback adjustment - tuck across the lower back area, slight curve out at the lower back, and add the amount of the back tuck at the hem (sorry, hem not pictured here.  The pattern was long and this was a minor adjustments).
  • Update - I forgot to raise the armhole on the back dress pattern. I will certainly do that before the muslin fit.
My plan is to make a muslin sometime this week.  When the fit is right, I will make the actual dress.  So stay tuned for the final outcome of my fit of this pattern.

Vogue 1498

Love this dress. It's slimming, sassy and sophisticated all at the same time.  What do you think?  Anyway, it's a winner for me.  This number has a similar neckline of McCall 7775.  A plus is that the bodice is princess seam, which makes the FBA a little easier to fit.  No super wide bust darts to fiddle with.  The details in another post, though.

Coming soon McCall's 7775, View A/B dress.

Happy Sewing!


  1. I think you can pull off this look very nicely. From what I see the trickiest part is the angle of the neck straps. Shoulders can all have such different slopes. Your work on the FBA is impressive.

    1. Thanks, Bunny. You are so right. I keep looking at the pictures and the curve of the neckband. Hope my it will work. I'll see once I make the muslin. Thanks, C

  2. This dress looks like it will be another stunning creation for you! I am excited to see the colors you will choose!

    1. Thanks, Vanessa. I hope it turns out nice. Potential fabric choices are: challis blue, purple multi color; red and white polka dot cotton blend; or red, yellow multi knit. we will see. Thanks again. C

  3. thanks for showing us what your alterations look like. that is one beautiful dress pattern. when you cut a sliver out of center back is that effectively a sway back adjustment? thanks!

    1. JuliaRu the sliver cut out is for the swayback adjustment. There are three steps as mentioned above. Tuck at lower back, cut out at lower back, and add to hem the amount of the tuck. Thanks, C



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