Notes On A Pattern - Vogue V8627 - Pattern Alterations

I decided to give Vogue 8627 a try.  This pattern has been in my collection for many years.  It is a very simple jacket.  The design lines are basic with an option to sew an asymmetric hem at the back of the jacket.  The front of the jacket has the bust dart rotated to the center front. I pondered how to make a full bust adjustment (FBA) and maintain the integrity of the style lines.  

Today I'm writing a Notes on a Pattern post to explain how I made the adjustments on the pattern to fit me. 

I started the process with just cutting my size, which was not included in this copy.  So I graded the size 14 up to size 16.  Next, I made a muslin just to see what types of changes were needed and to what degree those changes  would need to be made.  My "dream" was not to make a FBA.  HaHaHa.  Just holding the front jacket up to me, I could see that the bust dart needed to be lowered, the center front did not fall where it needed to, and the front waist dart was not in the same location as in the drawing.

I made a muslin using the pattern as is with the size graded up.  As I suspected, the front was too snug and the darts were in the wrong place.  So I definitely needed to make at least a FBA.

Caution - There are many changes to the front jacket.  It may look a mess.  But I'll try to clearly explain all of my adjustments.

Step 1 - I copied the front jacket just in case I "hacked" the pattern incorrectly.

Step 2 - On the copy, I first lowered the center front bust dart by 1".  The area is labelled #1.  This step was pretty painless once I figured out were to cut around the dart to move it down.  I did not want to cut into the area of the collar section.  You can see the slashes around the dart where I avoided the collar/neckline area.  Next, I filled in above where the dart was previously located.

Step 3 - Now, I could start the FBA.  First, I removed the sleeve so I could easily make the FBA.  See #2 slash from the waist up to the apex (which was also moved). The second FBA slash was through the bust dart and the third horizontal slash was made on the lower right side of the first FBA slash. I made a 1" FBA spreading each slash the appropriate amount of space, filling it in and taping it together. This adjustment changed the length and width of the front jacket. Next, the sleeve was reattached.  The FBA created an elongated triangle between the sleeve and the body of the jacket.  Now there is more space between the side of the bust and the arm. 

Step 4 - I didn't adjust the waist dart yet.  Usually that is done during the sewing process of the jacket or the second muslin.  

Step 5 - The sleeve is lengthen an inch or so. 

Below is a picture of the original front jacket placed on top of the adjusted front jacket to show the difference.

Step 6 - The next set of adjustments were made to the lower front and the front edge. These adjustments are made based on the width and length created on the front jacket.  

Step 7 - The final adjustment for the front of the jacket is on the collar.  Sometimes the fullness of the bust creates some gapping in the neckline.  I made a small tuck on the collar and the front jacket where the two are joined.  The small change reduces the possibility of a gapping neckline.

Step 8 - The prominent shoulder blade adjustment was made by slashing through the shoulder and waist darts, spreading the pattern  3/4".  And the sway back adjustment was made by creating a small horizontal tuck across the back as needed.  The added with is also made to the lower back.  The darts on both pieces are adjusted accordingly.  The back sleeve is also lengthen same as the front sleeve.

 

This ends my explanation of my pattern adjustments for this jacket.  Hopefully the next post will be the jacket reveal and my complete review of the project.  Until next time.

Happy Sewing!

C