Fabric Mart Fabrics Sew Camp Challenge - Simplicity 8015

I've only sewed the bodice together for my Fabric Mart Fabrics Sew Camp Challenge.  I started late.  The challenge was for the month of July.  So I'll be working on my project into the first few days of August.

My challenge project is a dress for my daughter.  I shared my thoughts with her, and she agreed that it would be a nice dress for her.

My design includes a contrasting fabric that I already had.  It's a remnant from a previous client project, 2012.  Paired with the floral Fabric Mart fabric it looks like a great combination. Of course, we will see very soon. ;-)

I had to dig deep to found the matalasse piece (Fishman's Fabrics).  Some of you may remember  Ms. Paulette Bell's pastoral dress (above) that I made for her in 2012 (Vogue 8615).  I had about 3/4 yards and some smaller pieces leftover.  I thought it was enough to make a princess seam bodice and cap sleeves. So, I kept them.  Anyway, these straps were too good to throw away.

From a distance, it looks like a jacquard.   But the weave actually imitate a fine quilted texture.  Matalasse mimics the style of the hand-stitched quilting in Marseilles, France.  It's beautifully textured and elegant.

Hopefully in a few days I have the dress finished and ready to show you.  Until next time.

Happy Sewing!
C

The Finish - Vogue 8615 - Ms. Bell

It seems like ages since I last posted. I've missed blogging and hope to start back as soon as things settle down a bit. Well, the Pastoral Anniversary (35) celebration was last Sunday. This is my review of Ms. P. Bell dress using Vogue 8615.

Pattern Description: MISSES' DRESS: Lined, below mid-knee or below mid-calf dresses A, B have fitted bodice, back neckline is lower than front and three-quarter or full length sleeves, flared skirt has side seam pockets and back zipper. Purchased petticoat and belt. Separate.

Pattern Sizing: 8 to 24.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes. Pretty much with the exception of a few design changes by Ms. Bell. I will talk them later in the review.

Were the instructions easy to follow? There were only six pattern pieces. Simple right? Right. The instructions were typical and easy to follow. I didn't like the finish of the armscye. So I turned in the seam allowance and hand stitched the lining to the armhole.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? This dress was for a client, but there were a few likes we both shared. and they are:

- simplicity of the design. Classic.
- the full skirt.
I also liked;
- the placement of the bodice darts and as well as the darts at the elbows.
- the most of the pieces went together well.

Dislikes -
- the amount of ease in the sleeve.
- the width of the sleeve cap. It wasn't smooth and formed a bubble around the upper part of the armscye.
- the shoulder seam is extremely narrow.

Fabric Used: A beautiful matalasse fabric from Fishman's.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Most of the pattern alterations and design changes are here. But during the second fitting, Ms. P. Bell was not completely happy with the length of the sleeves and the formation of the sleeve cap. So, I shorten the sleeves two more inches and reset the sleeve to eliminate the bubble effect along the upper portion of the sleeve.

I added two inch black lace to the edge of the skirt lining, just to pretty it up a bit. (Carolyn taught me this.) I also added the bra strap holders to the shoulder seams to help keep the dress in place. Caution - If you're planning to make this dress, you may want to add a inch or two the the length of the shoulder seam.

Ms. P. Bell wanted a matching belt. So I made one. Easy to do by cutting the belt the desired width and length plus seam allowance. Use canvas hair interfacing to add body. To finish the belt, a sparkling buckle. To keep the belt end from floppy over, I added a stripe of velcro. The stitching is buried in the fabric so you can't see it.

I also made a corsage that Ms. Bell can attach to the lapel or shoulder of her coat. You can use any flower pattern to make it. Finish the bottom of the flower and add a closer.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I thought about using this pattern for my Tracy Reese inspired dress, but I decided B4443 will work just fine. And yes, I do recommend it to others with modifications. It's classic. Just make a muslin for the bodice at least to get the fit down pat.

Conclusion:

This was good pattern choice for a classic design.

Dress for Ms. Paulette - V8615

It's that time of year again. Prom season and anniversary dress for Ms. Paulette. She is the banquet chair for our Pastoral Anniversary Dinner. Every year for the past five years, Ms. Paulette has commissioned me to make her dress.

This year she will be wearing Vogue 8615 made in a matalasse fabric, which she purchased at Fishman's Fabrics a few week ago. The muslin is done and the fitting/design adjustments transferred onto the pattern. I'm happy to say there were only minor fitting adjustments needed.  I usually don't make multiple muslin.  One is enough to capture small changes.  If there are more adjustments, I'll make them as I sew and fit the dress.  The next fitting will be later this week.  Next cutting and sewing.

Adjustments:

• Reduce the 3/4 length sleeves by 1 inch
• Reduce the amount of ease in the sleeve cap

I usually write on the muslin to help me remember the changes needed.

These instructions on how to reduce the excess ease are published in "Vogue Sewing".

Here's is my rendering of the change.

Reduced ease and shorten sleeve.
• Make a deeper "V" for the back neckline
• Reduce the length of the bodice by 1/2 inch
• Adjust shoulder seam to fit closer to shoulder
• Add bra strap holders to the shoulder seams

Deeper "V" for back neckline. Notice that the right shoulder seam stands away from the shoulder. This could be attributed to lack of hook and eye at the top of the zipper. Will see on the next fitting. I can make deeper shoulder seams if necessary. Also the length of the bodice is a tad bit to long. Below is how I made a deeper "V" neckline:

Original pattern with new neckline drawn on it. I didn't want to cut the original just in case I need to use it again.

Copied the bodice back transferring the marking and the new neckline.

Finally a view of the new back bodice over the original pattern. and finally,
• Only add 2 inches to the length (I added four to the muslin)

Parting Shots: This is my favorite Ms. Paulette project to date. V8355 made in 2008.

This is an easy one. So that's all for now. Stay Tuned and have a great day!
C