Paisley and Flowers, Black and White, and Simplicity 8015

Finally, I finished my FabricMart Fabric July sewing challenge.  If you've been following my post, this challenge was given to everyone that attended SewCamp 2019 in this past June.  We were given to July 31st to finish our projects.  But I needed a few more days to finish it.

I tried to make good use of the ombre effect - little at the top and bottom

I decided to make my daughter another dress using Simplicity 8015.  My pattern review information is here.  Having made the dress before saved me time on pattern adjustments and fitting a muslin.  I was able to go right to cutting out the dress and coming up with ways to improve the style of it.  I thought of adding some three-dimensional flowers to the bodice and maybe a few on the skirt.  Also, I plan to add some tulle, but didn't have enough.  For all intents and purposes, the dress is finished.  Embellishments can be easily added later if I decide to.

The challenge fabric is the floral black and white.    It is a polyester blend, I think. There is a little stretch in it.  The hand is smooth.

This is a modified longer version of the dress.  I thought more like tea length instead of ankle length.  The tulle would extend about four inches beyond the hem.  At least, that's what I'd originally planned to do.

Like the last dress, this one is fully lined with facings.  I really like the look of the facings with the lining.

Easy dress to make, and my daughter does like it even though she's no smiling in most of the pictures.  It was very hot, sunny, and humid today.


Parting Shot - We always that a few silly photos.  This one.., hmmm?  Air traffic personnel? Or to hot to let your arm down?  Anyway..,

Thanks for stopping by and Happy Sewing!
C

Fabric Mart Fabrics Sew Camp Challenge - Simplicity 8015

I've only sewed the bodice together for my Fabric Mart Fabrics Sew Camp Challenge.  I started late.  The challenge was for the month of July.  So I'll be working on my project into the first few days of August.

My challenge project is a dress for my daughter.  I shared my thoughts with her, and she agreed that it would be a nice dress for her.

My design includes a contrasting fabric that I already had.  It's a remnant from a previous client project, 2012.  Paired with the floral Fabric Mart fabric it looks like a great combination. Of course, we will see very soon. ;-)

I had to dig deep to found the matalasse piece (Fishman's Fabrics).  Some of you may remember  Ms. Paulette Bell's pastoral dress (above) that I made for her in 2012 (Vogue 8615).  I had about 3/4 yards and some smaller pieces leftover.  I thought it was enough to make a princess seam bodice and cap sleeves. So, I kept them.  Anyway, these straps were too good to throw away.

From a distance, it looks like a jacquard.   But the weave actually imitate a fine quilted texture.  Matalasse mimics the style of the hand-stitched quilting in Marseilles, France.  It's beautifully textured and elegant.

Hopefully in a few days I have the dress finished and ready to show you.  Until next time.

Happy Sewing!
C

Another Sew Camp Project - McCall 7890 - View C

I wanted to plan my projects for this SewCamp experience.  I attempted to prepare by completing all steps pre-sewing before arriving at the Carriage Corner B&B.  I selected fabric and patterns, cut the patterns out and made fit adjustments, cut and sewed some muslins before bagging everything into individual ZipLoc bags.  Sounds good, right?

But even with all the prep work, there is still a chance of something not working out.  In this case, it was more my selection of fabric.  The second problem was way too much added for the FBA.  The first fabric was a nice medium weight denim.  It was too stiff and really not the best fabric for this dress.  With regards to the FBA, I actually made a muslin before cutting into my fashion fabric.  From that I just saw a few little tweaks.  The muslin fabric was lighter and softer.  The pleats worked just fine in the muslin fabric.

Now let's fast forward to SewCamp.  I'm at the sewing machine, ready to start making this cute dress.  I put the front and back together pieces together and finished the seams hong kong seam binging style.  So at this point, I'm ready to try it on.   The front of the dress was a hot mess with fabric bulging out in the bust area. So I tried and tried to make it better.  No good.  Next, I changed the pleats to gathers.  Still, no joy.  After hours of trying to make it work, I decided to move on to something else.

The next day, I only spent a little time on the denim dress before I decided to try making it in another fabric.  I purchased a medium light weight twill at JoMar shortly after arriving in Philadelphia.  I started out with the idea of making gathers instead of pleats and reducing the FBA even more. 

In the end, I was able to complete View C of this pattern.  So after that long story, let me give you some of the typical pattern review information.  So here goes.

McCall m7890

Pattern Description: Fitted tunic and dresses have asymmetrical button-front opening with band, double yoke, slightly dropped shoulder and shaped hem with length and sleeve variations. A, B: Elasticized sleeve. D:Purchased bias tape for armhole.

Pattern Sizing:  Available in sizing 6 to 22; I used size 16 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? There was nothing confusing in the instructions or the construction of the garment.  My problems were with the fit and with the pleats.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? 

Likes:

• Asymmetrical button-front opening
• Sleeve of view C; something different.  I could use it in other garments.
• Side slits and back yoke
• Pleats.  I really wanted them to work for me.  Maybe in a lighter fabric.

Dislikes

• Pleats.  Grr..,
• The upper part of the front band.  It gapes open a bit even on the model on the envelope.  I shorten it about 1/2", but that wasn't enough.

Fabric Used: First fabric used was a denim from Mood.  The second fabric, pictured here is a medium/light weight twill that I purchased at JoMar's in Philly.  It has just a little stretch in it.  My original plan was to make a circle skirt out of it.  But oh well.  I have some other textiles that I can use for that project.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: My pattern alterations were a messy FBA, a swayback adjustment with a center back seam and to shorten the upper front band by 1", a half on each side.  With my back adjustments there is still a few wrinkles across my back.  My only design change was from pleats to gathers on the upper front.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I have a gingham that I thinking about trying.  Maybe the third version will be perfect.  And yes, I recommend it to others.  Each of us has different fit issues.  So that's something that always has to be worked out.  Some may have to work a little harder  than others to make it work.  But, it's not a difficult dress to make.

Conclusion: All was not lost.  I think I ended up with a decent dress, not perfect, but wearable.  BTW- My first attempt at making the dress didn't completely go to waste.  I gave it to Gaylen.  She has a little one (grand-daughter) that she can make something for.

That's it for now.  I do have a few more pattern reviews.  And I want to, at least, post a mini review of the first six months of 2019.

Happy Sewing!
C

Kimono Styled Jacket - Palmer Pletsch McCall 7790

McCall 7790 - Designed by Palmer/Pletsch Melissa Watson

This kimono styled jacket/lounge robe was my first project finished at SewCamp.  I totally negated the fabric suggestions on the envelope.  The knit that I used is beefier than what they suggested and it was about 20% stretch in it.

I originally envisioned this as a dress, but that idea quickly went out the window when I realized how high the side slits were.  During the entire time of adjusting the pattern, I never once thought about the length of the side seams.

This pattern is available in two size groupings (XS, S, M) and (L,XL, XXL).  I used size Large with modifications, some of which I think I could skipped.

It does look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope.  Wearing it feels more over-sized than it looks if that makes sense.

The instructions were not confusing or difficult.  There is a better way to attach the hem band to the jacket though.  But I was able to follow the construction instruction and get good results.  Maybe later I'll do a tutorial on an alternative method that I've tried before.

My fabric was purchased at FabricMart Fabric last year during SewCamp.  It is a scuba knit.  What drew me to it was the floral and the bright red.  It speaks happiness.

My pattern alterations:

• Full bust adjustment - I could have skipped that.  I don't have pictures.  Palmer/Pletsch included instructions on how to do it.
• Prominent Shoulder Blades - I think I could have skipped that too.

Design Changes:

• I excluded the lining.  The fabric was heavy enough, and I didn't care about adding one.

Overall, I really like this kimono styled jacket/lounge robe:  the curve of the front band in the neck area; the side slits; the sleeve band; and the style of the hem band. 

I dislike the construction for the hem band and the effect of the FBA.  The FBA created a gigantic dart!  When I make it again, I use Sandra Betzina's dartless FBA pictured below.

I do recommend it to others.  This is a great gift idea that most ladies will enjoy.

Stay Tuned; there is more to come!

C