Coats in March!? Burda 6462 Boyfriend Coat

Yes, I decided to make coats in March!  Who does THAT?  After all the fuss, "When is Spring going to get here?  I'm tried of the cold."  After all the whining, I chose to sew two coats for my March sewing projects.  The thought didn't suddenly pop into my head.  These are two of the coats I planned to make in the fall 2018, but never got around to it.  So, better late than later, chuckle, chuckle..,

Spring might a better time to make coats.  When fall rolls around, all I'll have to do is reach in the closet and pick one.  I cut out both coats at the same time, using Burda 6462.  I started the construction of this one first.  Once I had the body of it assembled, I started on the second one.  That post will following this one.

I bought this pattern January 2018, in preparation for making at least one coat in the fall.  My eye was drawn to view A.  I love long, sweeping coats.  This one was a bit over-sized and I'd hoped to by-pass the all full bust adjustment process.  But in retrospect it would have fit better in the chest area if I had.  And I could have gone down a size.  There is a lot of style ease throughout the body of the coat.  In some ways this is very good, especially in my neck of the woods.  Plenty of room to add layers.  Secondly, it is a great example of a boyfriend coat.

Today, the sun was super bright (Temps in the 40's).  So bright that many of the photos were washed out making the actual color of the coat appear to be muted.  When, in fact, the color of the fabric is a dark green with some dark gray under tones.  It also has little white specks in it.

The Burda Style 6462 description is vague as usual.  It simply states AB: normal welt, semi-fitted.  That's it!   The style is NOT that simple.  The coats are lined, over-sized with notched collar.  Collar and sleeve variations.  Patched pocket or welt pockets.  View A is belted with a detachable collar.  This is a better description.

More details to come later in the review.

The pattern includes sizes: 8-20.  I used 16 with a few modifications.

My coats do look similar to the ones pictured on the envelope.  This view A pictured on the model, looks like it could be slightly longer in the back, but the drawing does not indicate that.  Both modeled coats do show a dropped in-set sleeves.  So I think the pictures are pretty much how my coats turned out.

Burda's instructions are not the best.  They do not give enough information.  This was not a challenge for me.  Because I've had some experience with making coats.  Burda's instructions start with view B on how to assemble the welt pockets.  There is some skipping around.  I just followed my own way of constructing the body and the lining.

There were so many little details about the coat that I liked:

• I love it when the pattern includes separate pattern pieces for the upper and under collars.  It looks so much better when the upper collar rounds slightly under.  So you don't see where the two pieces meet, especially along the center back.
• There are two different patterns for the front and the front facings.  The inside center front looks so much nicer when the coat is open.  And the front isn't overly heavy due to the facing and the front being the same size.
• There is a shoulder dart just beneath the lapel.  Easy to adjust for the hallow area above the bust.
• The center back seam.  Always a plus for me. 
• Welt pockets.  This is something that I want to include in my 2019 sewing.  

  My dislikes:

• The thread loops for the belt.  I think carriers would have been better.  So that's one of my minor changes.
• There was almost no ease in the sleeve cap.  Maybe because the sleeves fall below the shoulder bone.  

My fabric is from my stash.  It's from FabricMart Fabrics.  I've had it about 5 years or so.  Again, the color is a dark green/dark gray under tones with white specks throughout.  It has a very nice, soft hand.  The pile has a velvet feel to it.  Love it.  The lining is from Mood.  It is called sycamore green twill viscose lining (#319547).  Another beautiful pieces of fabric.

I did not make my usual full bust or sway back adjustments.  I figured that this is an over-sized coat.  Who would notice?

• I did lengthen the sleeves by 1"
• Lengthen the coat by a few inches
• I didn't make the detachable collar of the knit cuffs.
• Instead of thread loops, I made carriers.
• For the upper body and hems, I interfaced them.
• Along the fold line of the lapel, I added stay tape.  (I should have taken a picture.)
• I followed, Diane method for hemming the coat.  This is something I wanted to do for the longest time.  She also has the template on her blog.  This one is not perfect, but I think I'll keep using this method.  It looks so nice.
• Added bound buttonholes instead of regular ones.  (Do more in 2019)

 

This is the hem of the second coat. I forgot to take a picture of the first one.

I like this pattern, but I don't think I will use it again.  I have dozens of coat patterns to try.  I do recommend it to others, though.

Next up is will be my review on my second coat, View B, Burda Style 6462.

Happy Sewing,
C