Is All That Top Stitching Worth It?- V9304

Is all that top stitching worth it?  Of course it is.   There are so many functional and decorative reasons to add topstitching to a garment.  For this particular pair of pants, it is mostly used as a decorative design element.   Just looking at the pattern envelope, the eye is drawn to two things:  The topstitching and the pockets.  In this case, it is a beautiful way to showcase the design lines of this "cargo" pants.

For sewists, we know that topstitching has many functional benefits too.  It helps keep edges flat creating a crisp edge around the pockets, necklines, cuffs and other areas of a garment.  Topstitching also makes seams strong and holds fabric layers together.  Quite a bit of all of these benefits are in these pants due to the enormous amount of topstitching.

There are two things needed in doing all of this topstitching:  time and patience.  It probably took me three times as long to make these pants because of it.  Every seam has one or two rows of topstitching.  

Making good stitching for me is a matter of taking my time and patience.  I have at least two sewing machine feet designed to help make the stitches.  But I never use them.  I rely on the edge of the Satin foot and the placement of the needle position, I guess I could start using the other feet more, but it's easy for me to use the same ole method I've used for decades.  So in the end, I just take my time and guide the fabric with the same amount of pressure to produce nice, even stitching. It is a nice design element.  

That being said, here is more on the review of the pattern, Vogue V9304, designed by Kathryn Brenne.

The pattern description is:  Misses pants semi-fitted, pull-on pants have elasticized waist, drawstring, yokes, and pocket variations.  Fabric to be used should be two-way stretch knits (50% cross grain) like double knits, ponte.

The pattern is available in sizes 6 to 22.  I used 16 with a few modifications.

My pants look like the drawing and photos of the pants. I made view A.  I wanted to really test making them before I tried the back pockets and the little stitched slashes at the back of the knee.  Pockets are one of the design elements that I am focusing on this year.   

Often I stray away from following instructions to the letter.  But for these pants, I did.  Particularly the instructions for the pockets.  I wanted to make sure they turned out right.  The instructions seemed a little weird.  It was like making the pockets wrong side out. literally.  The finished pockets do show raw edges on the outside of the pants.  

My likes:

• All of that time and patience to topstitch.  The nerd in me thinks this is so fun. 
• The seaming of the pants.
• The method for forming the pockets.
• The yoke and elastic casing.

Dislikes:

• Really, my dislike is on me.  I needed to adjust the crotch seam.  The front is a little too long (1") and the back crotch seam a little too short (1.5").  I was so busy thinking and working on all the rest, I fail to make these small adjustments.  They are not a deal breaker for the pants.  These adjustments would provide slightly better look and comfort.

The fabric that I used is a ponte knit from So Sew Fabrics.  It's of the same quality as the ponte knit that I've purchased from Mood.  So both are good sources for ponte knit.

My two little adjustments are:  lengthen the pant legs and use a slightly deeper seam allowance at the center front seam below the yoke.

I like how these pants turned out.  I will make at least one more pair, view B.  I do recommend this pattern to other sewists.  I was surprised to see not many people tried this pattern yet. The copyright is 2018.  Maybe is because of all that top stitching or the construction of the pockets.  All you need is a little time and patience,  And it's done.

Anyway, I do recommend the pattern.  You'll have a unique pair of pants that are comfortable and stylish,

Happy Sewing!

C

Custom Made Sneakers!

Finally today I'm able to take some time to blog about the shoemaking workshop that I took in March.  There is always so much going on.  And I'm forced to choose between blogging and sewing.  You know which one wins.  ;-)  Instagram has me spoiled.  I can snap a picture, write a brief description, and post in a matter of minutes.  Blogging takes a little more effort.  

Anyway, back to my shoemaking experience.  At first, I was very skeptical about taking it online. This workshop was offered through the Haute Couture Club of Chicago.  In the past, the Chicago School of Shoemaking has given presentations on making all types of leather goods.  At these presentations, we learned about the school, courses and all types of wonderful things to make. I was intrigued by the possibility of me, little ole me, being able to make my own shoes one day.

And, that day came on March 27, 2021.

Again, my course was online.  My sneaker kit could be mailed to me or I could pick it up.  I picked up my kit a few days before the class.  The school workroom is fabulous.  When I entered the front door, I knew I would be back.  Back to take another class in person.  There were all types of sewing machines, workstations, tools, projects and leather all about the room.  I was in a "crafting" candy store.

My course was the beginner's sneakers class, taught by Yohance Lacour.  Mr. Lacour presented to the club members March 2020, right before the pandemic.  He makes beautifully custom made sneakers and handbags.  He is an excellent instructor.  He is very thorough and patient.  No student is left behind.  He makes sure of that.  Additionally, he explains each step to make sure the students understand the methodology of the shoemaking process.

Before the course, we received an email with the zoom meeting link along with some preliminary instructions that needed to be completed before the workshop.  They were cutting out the pattern, shoes, and marking and punching out holes for sewing and eyelets.

All of the sewing is done by hand.  Waxed thread and needle are included in the kit as well as shoe soles, shoe strings, your choice of leather, and pattern.  I purchased a large hole puncher with multiple sizes.

The length of the class is 3.5 hours.  I was able to complete one shoe during that time.  After the class I finished the second shoe.  The eyelets that I had at home did not completely curl to the wrong side of the leather.  So I went to JoAnn's Fabrics to purchase larger eyelets which were perfect.

I thoroughly enjoyed the shoemaking process and hope to make a more detailed pair when I feel comfortable going to the school for instructions.  The school does offer more virtual sneaker courses if you are interested and are unable to travel to the school.  Check out their website.  There maybe a course that you'd like to take.

I hope you enjoyed reading about my experience.  It was so fun.

Happy Sewing!

C

Sweater Knits - A Difference In Sizing Burda Style 6990

Of course,  you all already know that all knits are not alike.  Sometimes I have to remind myself. Especially when I'm making multiple versions of a given pattern.  Way back in January, I made two turtleneck tops using sweater knits from So Sew Fabrics.  The graduated color knit is just a basic weave sweater knit with a slightly course hand and about 30 percent stretch.  While the tan ribbed sweater knit is very soft and has about 60 percent stretch.

My original plan was to make the Burda Style 6990 turtleneck top for me and my daughter.  I traced off size large for me and medium for DD.  Of course, I wanted the brown knit for myself; and DD gladly took the tan ribbed knit.  As it turned out, my top was perfect.  But when DD tried on her top, it looked like she was wearing my top. Lol

So I tried it on. It fits me almost perfectly.  The armsyce needed a little adjustment.  I ended up with two new turtleneck tops.  Unfortunate for DD. Lol  I'll make her something later.

These new turtlenecks fit into my brown wardrobe capsule.  They go well with pull-on pants and jeans.  I'm pictured wearing the brown top with my TNT Vogue V8859 pull-on pants.  I love this pattern.

No pictures of me wearing the second top yet.  I hope to post that soon.

Notes on the pattern -

This was a very easy top to sew.  I especially like the cut on the sleeve.  It fit well under the arm and looks good in the shoulder area.  This pattern does have great bones.  I could make a hundred of these.

There is nothing complicated or confusing about the construction of the top.  And it has three other views that look great too.  I think I will also try the shawl collar view.

Parting Shots:  Because it was a sunny day, we wanted to take some pictures outside.  But it was windy and cold.  Anyway, we tried.  I couldn't keep a straight face or hold a good pose.  So here are a few fun/silly shots.

Happy Sewing!

C

 

Two New Patterns, Two New Athleisure Outfits, and Two Different Knit Fabrics - S8529 & M7610

This post is about two's.  I'm reviewing two patterns, two athleisure outfits, and two different types of knit fabrics.

I didn't realize Simplicity had a version of the Sew House Seven Toaster Sweater until a few months ago.  So I grabbed a copy to try it.  I was most interested in the funnel neck oversized tops.  The others views are available in other big 4 patterns.  I do support indy pattern makers.  But for this one, I figured it were be a savings on a very simple pattern.  I bought it at JoAnn's for $1.99.

Many sewists have posted their version of the Toaster Sweater on Instagram.  That is actually where I became interested in trying it.  I didn't use any sweater knit to make views A and B.  Instead for view A I used a very soft French terry that I purchased from Company Name on Amazon Prime.  This company  is new to me so I only purchased enough for the top and a matching pair of joggers. The jogger review follows this one.  The French terry is amazingly soft, it is slightly lighter than the average French terry used in most hoodies/sweatshirts garments.  Before cutting into it, I pre-shrunk the yardage and dried it.  Out of the dryer it was extra soft.  Perfect for lounge wear.  

My second fabric is from Mood Fabrics.  It is a medium weight cotton knit that I purchased a few years ago.  This textile is stiffer and has a dry hand.  While I love the color, the stiffness does reduce the comfort level of this set.  I made matching joggers for this top as well.  These fabric was pre-shrunk as well.

With the different fiber, weight, and weave of the two, there is a noticeable difference in how each top wears on the body.  The purple top is fluid falling close to the body.  But the orange top stands away from the body.  Note the funnel is stands up all on it's own.

I used size large for both tops.  There is a lot style ease in them.  For view B, I could have reduced the length of the waistband by a few inches.  It does not rest on my waist.

Both tops look like the drawing and the pictures on the envelope. I just glance at the instructions. Very typical; off hand nothing confusing in them. For view A I did change how I finished the slit.  Instead I made mitered corners.  This finish looks better to me. 

I think I was interested in how the funnel neck tops would look on my frame.  My favorite is view A. I discovered that this style of neckline isn't a favorite.  The funnel does not fit close to my neckline.  I prefer the funnel of the Christine Jonson Trio set.  Everything else is fine.  

I don't think I'll make these views again for myself.  I have lots of other tops to try.  But I do recommend the pattern to others.  

Overall, I am pleased with how these tops turned out.  My favorite is the purple one.  Because of a few things:  the funnel neck drapes a little, the softness of the fabric, and the hemline.  These tops are very easy to make and sew up fast.  

For the joggers, I used McCall's 7610.  This is other pattern grab that was "encouraged" by Instagram sewists.  These really turned out well. The joggers fall a few inches above the ankle.  So, I added several inches to lengthen them.  I may make the shorter version later in the spring.  

Like most sewists, I already have several jogger pants patterns in my collection.  The design of these were slightly different than any I own.  It's the pockets.  And I liked the curve of them.  I wanted to try them to see how the pockets would lay on the curve of my body.  They do lay flat. :-)  The waistband is nice too. 

I used size large with a little modification.  My joggers do look like the picture on the envelope except for the length of the pants.

The instructions were typical and easy to follow.  There was nothing confusing in them.  The pants were another easy project.  

I will make these again.  There are a few things I will change though.  First, I won't make them as long.  Often I add too much to the length occasionally having to cut off an inch or so.  I guess I can attribute this to always having a difficult time finding any pants that were long enough in the stores.  Second, the width of the leg is a little wider than excepted.  I will definitely taper the legs a bit and reduce the height of the cuffs.

It's a good jogger pattern, and I do recommend it.  If you are looking for comfortable outfit to wear around the house, to the gym, or to run errands, the combination of the Toaster Sweater and these joggers is perfect.

So, this completes the new athleisure outfits that I made in February.  I hope this review was helpful.

Closing Shots:  I actually like my new MiMi G. S9182 top with the peachy orange joggers.  

Happy Sewing!

C

New Athleisure with Simplicity S9210

I proclaimed that I will burn all of my "highly worn" athleisure and lounge wear when Covid-19 is under control.  These outfits have been worn every week since there are very few places to go.  I joke about it with family and friends, often calling this set of outfits Covid-19 wear.  

Truth be told, I'm anxious get out of this "rut".  I want to get back to going to book club, Haute Couture club, and other gathering places that I enjoy.

Anyway, back to athleisure and lounge wear.  Athleisure is trending, and there are dozens of pattern designs available. Because I'm going to need replacements very soon, I decided to make a few new ones. My first outfit is made using Simplicity S9210.  It has seven views; a complete wardrobe of lounge wear include slippers.  From the picture on the envelope, these coordinates are designed for home wear.  But these designs can be also crafted for outfits to wear running errands to running in the park.

Simplicity describes the pattern as:  Misses' lounge tops, dress, shorts, pants and booties.  It is also described as "easy to sew".  The pattern is available in sizes XS to XXL. I used size large with modifications.

My views of A and F look pretty much like the basic design lines.  I did make a few changes.  

The construction is described as easy to sew.  Really it is.  I read the instruction when I first bought the pattern.  They were typical and easy to follow.  During my construction process I only glance at them.  

There are several things to like about the pattern:

• Complete wardrobe in one envelope
• Coordinates easy to construct
• The pattern has pretty good bones
• Comfy

I really don't have any real dislikes.  

My fabric is from a new company to me.  This was my first time ordering from them.  ISee Fabrics

They specialize in organic fibers.  They have great French terry and ribbed knits. I pre-shrunk my fabrics before cutting into it.  It washed well and sewed up with no problems.  The French terry is soft and comfortable.  I will purchase from them again.

Changes

• ViewA -
• Added an inch or so to the sleeve length.
• This view does not have the front pocket, but I wanted a front pocket for this hoodie.  I also added an inch to the bottom of the pocket.
• Used contrasting ribbed knit for the cuffs and waistband.
• Observation - I used size large.  I could have used between the medium and large at the neck and below the bust area.   The hoodie is huge.  Not a problem; just an observation.

• View F -
• Lengthen the pants a few inches.  
• I used ribbed knit for the waistband and the cuffs.
• Added elastic to the waistband.  I wanted to maintain the width.  I omitted the top stitches below the waistband.
• Added pockets: in-seam and back.  I used the in-seam pocket from another pattern and cut the back pocket without a pattern.
• Observation - The legs of the pants are more close fitting than mine.  The cuffs had to be stretched quite a bit to match the hem of the pant leg.

None of the observations created any obstacles with making the set.  They are just notes for what I experienced with making view A and F.  

I like how my new athleisure set turned out.  I'm sure I get plenty of wear out of it.  And I do recommend the pattern to others who are interested in replacing or adding to their athleisure wear.  This was a fun outfit to make.  I actually wore it yesterday.  I have lunch with a very good friend of mine most Mondays.  Yes, even in the face of Covid-19 we have tried to keep our standing lunch date.   So these days, we call the order in and bring it back to my house to eat.

So, I hope this review is helpful.  Thank you for stopping by my little place in cyberspace.

Happy Sewing!

C