Vogue V1636

Hi Sewing Friends,

Here is another outfit that I made in 2025.  This Vogue pattern was out-of-print when I decided to make it.  But I was able to get a copy on Ebay.  What inspired my to try this top was a fellow creator, Monica of That's Sew Monica, on Instagram.  She made the top a few times and I really loved the black and white outfit that she made.  

Pattern Description:  Misses' tops:  fitted wrap top has pleats and tucks with ribbon and button closure. I'd also like to add that it has princess seams.      A: Short sleeve with dart.  B:  Two piece sleeve.  This pattern is rated easy.  

Pattern Sizing:  6 to 22; I used 16 with modifications.  So there is a large range of sizes available. 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Yes, they were easy to follow.  Nothing was confusing or complicated..  Typical instructions for a wrap top or dress.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  

Likes:

• wrap top design
• the asymmetrical peplum, fullness of the back peplum
• princess seam, easier to fit
• two piece sleeve

No dislikes.

Fabric Used:  The fabric is a very nice crepe knit from Mood Fabrics.  Love it.  It washes and dries beautifully.  No wrinkles. ;-)

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I did my usual full bust adjustment similar to the adjustment that I made on Vogue V1672.  No photos this time.  But check out my post for V1672 for an illustration.  I also lengthen the sleeves.  If I make it again, I will  shorten the bodice a little bit for a better fit around my waist area. 

For my pants I used Vogue V1914, View C.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I think I may make it again. And yes, I do recommend it to others.

Conclusion:  This is a relatively easy Vogue pattern to sew, and it will look great on all figure shapes.

Happy Sewing!

C

Mixing It Up With Simplicity Cardigan S8992 and Vogue Pants V8859

My little collection of TNT patterns is growing.  It's the simple style lines and easy sewing that makes some of these patterns extremely valuable to me.  Vogue V8859 pants I've made at least a dozen pair so far.  And I don't see myself retiring this one any time soon.  I love these pull-on pants.  As for Simplicity S8992, I've only made it once before.  The dress is below.  This could quickly become a TNT.  It is part of Simplicity's "Pattern Hacking" collection.  I like it a lot too.

I started this project with making the pants.  I wanted to add a tuxedo style stripe down the sides.  Like I said to try something new.  Personally, they turned out to be a great looking pair of pants.  After I finished them, I saw that I had about 3/4 yard of the knit fabric left.  So, I attempted to "squeeze" out a little cardigan.  But of course, I had to use another fabric for the stripe and the sleeve to complete it.  The difference in fabric didn't matter.  In fact, they complement each other.  

In the end, I not only made another great pair of pants, but I also have a nice little cardigan to match.

Just to provide some details on the fabrics, I purchased the ponte knit from Vogue Fabrics last winter.  I only bought two yards which was more than enough for the slim pull-on pants.  The ribbed black knit (used for the sleeve and the stripe on the cardigan) came from Joann's.  It was a remnant from another project.  

Also, for the cardigan I used snaps and buttons for the closure.  I didn't want to make buttonholes.  So, I sewed on snaps and sewed buttons to the right side of the front closure.

I like how the outfit turned out.  It is definitely an early fall project.  The ponte knit is too heavy for summer weather. Lol I'll save this outfit for the right time and weather conditions.  

Happy Sewing!

C

Is All That Top Stitching Worth It?- V9304

Is all that top stitching worth it?  Of course it is.   There are so many functional and decorative reasons to add topstitching to a garment.  For this particular pair of pants, it is mostly used as a decorative design element.   Just looking at the pattern envelope, the eye is drawn to two things:  The topstitching and the pockets.  In this case, it is a beautiful way to showcase the design lines of this "cargo" pants.

For sewists, we know that topstitching has many functional benefits too.  It helps keep edges flat creating a crisp edge around the pockets, necklines, cuffs and other areas of a garment.  Topstitching also makes seams strong and holds fabric layers together.  Quite a bit of all of these benefits are in these pants due to the enormous amount of topstitching.

There are two things needed in doing all of this topstitching:  time and patience.  It probably took me three times as long to make these pants because of it.  Every seam has one or two rows of topstitching.  

Making good stitching for me is a matter of taking my time and patience.  I have at least two sewing machine feet designed to help make the stitches.  But I never use them.  I rely on the edge of the Satin foot and the placement of the needle position, I guess I could start using the other feet more, but it's easy for me to use the same ole method I've used for decades.  So in the end, I just take my time and guide the fabric with the same amount of pressure to produce nice, even stitching. It is a nice design element.  

That being said, here is more on the review of the pattern, Vogue V9304, designed by Kathryn Brenne.

The pattern description is:  Misses pants semi-fitted, pull-on pants have elasticized waist, drawstring, yokes, and pocket variations.  Fabric to be used should be two-way stretch knits (50% cross grain) like double knits, ponte.

The pattern is available in sizes 6 to 22.  I used 16 with a few modifications.

My pants look like the drawing and photos of the pants. I made view A.  I wanted to really test making them before I tried the back pockets and the little stitched slashes at the back of the knee.  Pockets are one of the design elements that I am focusing on this year.   

Often I stray away from following instructions to the letter.  But for these pants, I did.  Particularly the instructions for the pockets.  I wanted to make sure they turned out right.  The instructions seemed a little weird.  It was like making the pockets wrong side out. literally.  The finished pockets do show raw edges on the outside of the pants.  

My likes:

• All of that time and patience to topstitch.  The nerd in me thinks this is so fun. 
• The seaming of the pants.
• The method for forming the pockets.
• The yoke and elastic casing.

Dislikes:

• Really, my dislike is on me.  I needed to adjust the crotch seam.  The front is a little too long (1") and the back crotch seam a little too short (1.5").  I was so busy thinking and working on all the rest, I fail to make these small adjustments.  They are not a deal breaker for the pants.  These adjustments would provide slightly better look and comfort.

The fabric that I used is a ponte knit from So Sew Fabrics.  It's of the same quality as the ponte knit that I've purchased from Mood.  So both are good sources for ponte knit.

My two little adjustments are:  lengthen the pant legs and use a slightly deeper seam allowance at the center front seam below the yoke.

I like how these pants turned out.  I will make at least one more pair, view B.  I do recommend this pattern to other sewists.  I was surprised to see not many people tried this pattern yet. The copyright is 2018.  Maybe is because of all that top stitching or the construction of the pockets.  All you need is a little time and patience,  And it's done.

Anyway, I do recommend the pattern.  You'll have a unique pair of pants that are comfortable and stylish,

Happy Sewing!

C

The Best Stretch Ponte Knit Ever - Christine Jonson Center Seam Pants

Most would like to believe that ponte knit is just plain ole common fabric used in simple or fast fashion.  But that's not true of Mood's Stretch Ponte Knit.  It is superb.  I love it and want it in every color.  It's so amazing.  The hand is soft and smooth.  The feel is similar to scuba knit.    Using a microtex needle this dreamy fabric sews up with no skipped stitches.

My first purchase was a trio of black, chartreuse, and beige yardages for fall/winter weight pull on pants.  January was my month to sew separates, and I decided that this would be a great time to sew up a few pants to compliment my wardrobe.  Black and beige neutrals are always a plus, but I had to have the chartreuse; something a little different from the norm.

Today, I'm featuring two of the three pants that I made using Christine Jonson center seam pants from her Travel Trio 1 pattern collection.   The marrying of the pattern and the ponte knit was perfect.  The sewing process was quick and easy.  The result is two great pair of pants.

I decided to play up the center seam with some top stitching.  This is a nice little detail to show off the seaming.  I almost love the pant leg shaping; not to skinny and great for wearing boots.  These pants can take you from casual work gear to night out on the town.  In the picture above, you can see I didn't do due diligence with the pressing.  But I'll take care of that later.  NOTE:  be careful when you press.  The high synthetic fiber may be a little challenging.

The only other notable change that I made to the pant was to lengthen them a few inches to cover my extremely long legs.

This certainly will not be the last time I purchase Mood's ponte knit.  I want it in every color.  I invite you to try it.  You won't be disappointed.  There are ten delicious colors available at the Mood online store.

Happy Sewing!
C

McCall 7243 In Review

Today I'd like to finally review a McCall's dress that I made for my daughter two years ago.  Yes, two years ago.  Occasionally, I share projects that won't high on my favorites list.  this one was lingering at the bottom of the "things to blog about list". 

After I photographed my daughter wearing the dress, I was less than satisfied with how it fit/looked on my daughter.  One the first things I noticed was the lines that formed along the collar neckline.  Then, I felt the dress was a little baggy through the waist and hip area (an easy fit, right?).  Finally, the photos were not the best.  So, I immediately thought let me think about whether or not I want to post the review. It took me two years and then some to finally post.

The first time that Lauren wore it was to the Haute Couture Club of Chicago Holiday Luncheon in December 2017.  She added a cute wide belt shaped much like a obi belt which made the dress quite flattering.   

When we arrived at the luncheon, Eve was wearing her version of the very same dress.  I had to chuckle to myself.  Both of us, yield similar results.  And both Eve and Lauren decided to belt the dress for a better look.

So, of choice, I had to take a few pictures of them together!   On Pattern Review there are about sixteen reviews.  So I think most of the construction do's and don'ts have been discussed.  So I will be brief with my review as this is not a difficult dress to sew.

Pattern Description:  Close-fitting, pullover top and dresses have wide bertha collar, and stitched hems. A, D: Long sleeves. B: Sleeveless. C: Contrast collar and three-quarter length sleeves. Narrow hem finish on collar, and armholes A.

Pattern Sizing:  4 to 20; I used size 12 with a few modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  There was nothing difficult or confusing about the instructions.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  This is really a simple knit dress.  The collar and the double sleeve variations are what encouraged me to buy and make the dress.

Fabric Used:  Ponte knit from JoAnn's Fabrics.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I made very small changes to the pattern.  For the front dress and front collar, I did a pigeon chest adjustment and the back dress and collar I remove about a inch from the neckline. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  For the most part, there is nothing difficult about it that would discourage someone from sewing it.  But I probably will not make this one again.  I have at least 100 difficult dress patterns to try.  So, if you think this the dress from you, try it.

My DD with My Baby Sister

Conclusion:  My daughter is now happy to wear this dress with a belt.  And after seeing Eve wearing the same dress, I have a new appreciation for it.  ;-)  This is a likable knit dress that is easy to sew.

Tomato Red Bold - Vogue 9239 In Review

Red and Orange are two of my favorite colors.  Both are bold and vibrant. I love wearing these colors and hope to add more red and orange to my wardrobe during the fall and winter seasons.  So today, I'm happy to share my newest dress made with tomato red (red-orange color) ponte knit.  Here's my pattern review.

Pattern:  Vogue 9239

Pattern Description:  Fitted bodice dresses have front and back princess seams, full or slim skirt, and sleeve variations.  Separate pattern pieces are included for cup sizes A, B, C, D.

Pattern Sizing:  sizes 6 - 22; I used 14 neck/shoulder, 16 through bust area, and 14 skirt.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, the design lines are like the drawing and the photographed dress.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were typical; nothing confusing about them.  Some of the construction processes I did not do.  Later on those details.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?   I love the sleeve and skirt variations.  Having the multiple cup size option and the princess seams are great too.  It's easier to make fit adjustments.

Fabric Used:  I purchased this lovely tomato red ponte knit from Fabric Mart during the summer.  They may not have it anymore as I bought the last four yards of it.  The pattern recommends lighter fabrics.  I understand why.  The upper body has additional pieces for the front/back shoulder area which adds some bulk along the seam lines.  Also, the bodice is underlined and lined.  This became a dislike as I sewed the dress.  But at the same time, I felt the underlining helps stabilize along the neck and shoulder areas, especially when you use a fabric with some stretch.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  Yes, I made a few.  They are:

•  With my available cup size, I made minimum tweaks to the front bodice.

• Swayback - I made a small one, but think I needed to go a little deeper to remove the winkles across my back.
• No prominent should blade adjustment.  The many pieces to the back allowed me more adjustment options along the seams.
• I added about one inch to the length of the bodice, which I could have skipped; maybe not.  But it looks like too much fabric in the bodice.
• Skirt - Added an inch or two the length; rise the center back up by 1/2 inch.  My swayback causes the center back to rest lower than the rest of the back waist seam; and I didn't line the skirt.  This ponte knit is opaque.  

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I'm going to make this dress again, view C.  I have a very nice black crepe polyester from Mood Fabrics.  The dress was a piece of cake to sew. 

Conclusion:  I wanted to make this dress all summer long and finally I made it Monday before last.  It's a good make and I'm pleased with the results. But I do hope that with a lighter fabric it will be easier to press along those triple layers of the bodice.  I want make view C early November in time for the holiday season.

Happy Sewing!
C