Sew Cargo Crazy - The First Pair Simplicity 5102

Good afternoon Everyone!

These photos were taken minutes before posting my review of my first pair of cargo pants for the July Sew Cargo Crazy challenge.  Remember, last month I shared that my friend, Rhonda Buss of Rhonda Creative Life, and I will be sewing cargo pants like crazy using Simplicity S5102.

Yesterday morning, I went to my sewing studio to sew on the waistband and hem my pants all in an effort to have the pictures taken before my DD left for work.  Needless to say, I didn't finish in time.  So this morning we were out taking picture by 10:30am.  And it felt like 100 degrees in a sauna.  The humidity must be 100%.  Not the best day to be outside for a photo shoot.  Tee Hee!

Anyway, today is a great day to post my first pair of cargo pants.  For week one, I made View C with minor changes.

This pattern is vaguely described as misses' pants in two length and mini skirt. Thank God for pictures.  The illustration shows a much better description of what the pants look like.  It's comes in sizes 4 to 18.  Unfortunately, it is out of print, but I think you can find it at Amazon.com or on Etsy if you are interested. 

For my pants, I used size between 14 and 16.  And they are a little tighter than I like to wear my pants.  For the next pair I'll make size 16 for sure.

I really like all the design elements of all the views.  My only dislikes are that the pants zip in the center back, my favorite view is cropped, and there is no waistband.  Front fly zipper is my preferred closure,  and ankle length pants look better on me.  And cargo pants look better with a waistband, at least, to me.

Other changes:

• With the front fly zipper, I decided to add a curved waistband.  No need to draft one.  I just used the waistband from McCall 5818.  I extended it a little to include a two button closure.
• I machine sewed a 1.5" hem instead of finishing the hem with elastic.

My fabric is from Mood Fabrics:   Rag and Bone Dried Herb Mercerized Cotton Twill, #307312.  Great fabric to work with and is available.  Mood is having a 4th of July Weekend sale.  So it's $8.39 per yard instead of $11.99.

My next pair of cargo pants will have a few design changes.  I hoping to style them closer to the Mood Inspiration picture.

I took this picture in the garage for better lighting on the color.

The Sew Cargo Crazy challenge continues.  week two.

Have a great weekend!
C

Another Sew Camp Project - McCall 7890 - View C

I wanted to plan my projects for this SewCamp experience.  I attempted to prepare by completing all steps pre-sewing before arriving at the Carriage Corner B&B.  I selected fabric and patterns, cut the patterns out and made fit adjustments, cut and sewed some muslins before bagging everything into individual ZipLoc bags.  Sounds good, right?

But even with all the prep work, there is still a chance of something not working out.  In this case, it was more my selection of fabric.  The second problem was way too much added for the FBA.  The first fabric was a nice medium weight denim.  It was too stiff and really not the best fabric for this dress.  With regards to the FBA, I actually made a muslin before cutting into my fashion fabric.  From that I just saw a few little tweaks.  The muslin fabric was lighter and softer.  The pleats worked just fine in the muslin fabric.

Now let's fast forward to SewCamp.  I'm at the sewing machine, ready to start making this cute dress.  I put the front and back together pieces together and finished the seams hong kong seam binging style.  So at this point, I'm ready to try it on.   The front of the dress was a hot mess with fabric bulging out in the bust area. So I tried and tried to make it better.  No good.  Next, I changed the pleats to gathers.  Still, no joy.  After hours of trying to make it work, I decided to move on to something else.

The next day, I only spent a little time on the denim dress before I decided to try making it in another fabric.  I purchased a medium light weight twill at JoMar shortly after arriving in Philadelphia.  I started out with the idea of making gathers instead of pleats and reducing the FBA even more. 

In the end, I was able to complete View C of this pattern.  So after that long story, let me give you some of the typical pattern review information.  So here goes.

McCall m7890

Pattern Description: Fitted tunic and dresses have asymmetrical button-front opening with band, double yoke, slightly dropped shoulder and shaped hem with length and sleeve variations. A, B: Elasticized sleeve. D:Purchased bias tape for armhole.

Pattern Sizing:  Available in sizing 6 to 22; I used size 16 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? There was nothing confusing in the instructions or the construction of the garment.  My problems were with the fit and with the pleats.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? 

Likes:

• Asymmetrical button-front opening
• Sleeve of view C; something different.  I could use it in other garments.
• Side slits and back yoke
• Pleats.  I really wanted them to work for me.  Maybe in a lighter fabric.

Dislikes

• Pleats.  Grr..,
• The upper part of the front band.  It gapes open a bit even on the model on the envelope.  I shorten it about 1/2", but that wasn't enough.

Fabric Used: First fabric used was a denim from Mood.  The second fabric, pictured here is a medium/light weight twill that I purchased at JoMar's in Philly.  It has just a little stretch in it.  My original plan was to make a circle skirt out of it.  But oh well.  I have some other textiles that I can use for that project.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: My pattern alterations were a messy FBA, a swayback adjustment with a center back seam and to shorten the upper front band by 1", a half on each side.  With my back adjustments there is still a few wrinkles across my back.  My only design change was from pleats to gathers on the upper front.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I have a gingham that I thinking about trying.  Maybe the third version will be perfect.  And yes, I recommend it to others.  Each of us has different fit issues.  So that's something that always has to be worked out.  Some may have to work a little harder  than others to make it work.  But, it's not a difficult dress to make.

Conclusion: All was not lost.  I think I ended up with a decent dress, not perfect, but wearable.  BTW- My first attempt at making the dress didn't completely go to waste.  I gave it to Gaylen.  She has a little one (grand-daughter) that she can make something for.

That's it for now.  I do have a few more pattern reviews.  And I want to, at least, post a mini review of the first six months of 2019.

Happy Sewing!
C

Kimono Styled Jacket - Palmer Pletsch McCall 7790

McCall 7790 - Designed by Palmer/Pletsch Melissa Watson

This kimono styled jacket/lounge robe was my first project finished at SewCamp.  I totally negated the fabric suggestions on the envelope.  The knit that I used is beefier than what they suggested and it was about 20% stretch in it.

I originally envisioned this as a dress, but that idea quickly went out the window when I realized how high the side slits were.  During the entire time of adjusting the pattern, I never once thought about the length of the side seams.

This pattern is available in two size groupings (XS, S, M) and (L,XL, XXL).  I used size Large with modifications, some of which I think I could skipped.

It does look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope.  Wearing it feels more over-sized than it looks if that makes sense.

The instructions were not confusing or difficult.  There is a better way to attach the hem band to the jacket though.  But I was able to follow the construction instruction and get good results.  Maybe later I'll do a tutorial on an alternative method that I've tried before.

My fabric was purchased at FabricMart Fabric last year during SewCamp.  It is a scuba knit.  What drew me to it was the floral and the bright red.  It speaks happiness.

My pattern alterations:

• Full bust adjustment - I could have skipped that.  I don't have pictures.  Palmer/Pletsch included instructions on how to do it.
• Prominent Shoulder Blades - I think I could have skipped that too.

Design Changes:

• I excluded the lining.  The fabric was heavy enough, and I didn't care about adding one.

Overall, I really like this kimono styled jacket/lounge robe:  the curve of the front band in the neck area; the side slits; the sleeve band; and the style of the hem band. 

I dislike the construction for the hem band and the effect of the FBA.  The FBA created a gigantic dart!  When I make it again, I use Sandra Betzina's dartless FBA pictured below.

I do recommend it to others.  This is a great gift idea that most ladies will enjoy.

Stay Tuned; there is more to come!

C

About Last Week - SewCamp

Gaylen and Jay Owners' of the B&B

Some of the lovely ladies at Breakfast

SewCamp was so much fun!  I had an opportunity to see some old friends and make some new ones.  I headed for Philadelphia early Thursday morning.  Andrea picked me up at the airport.  We went to get Philly Steak and fries.  Then off to JoMar for our first fabric shopping experience of the weekend.  After that, we picked up Laquana (of course, we had to bring her a cheese steak too. Lol)

Andrea

Laquana with her sewing projects

Group after the shopping

Next stop Carriage Corner for our four day Sew Camp!  Within an hour of our arrival, we were all gathered in the sew studio selecting sewing stations and pulling out projects to sew.  On Friday after breakfast, we quickly got into the van and headed to Fabric Mart fabric.  Look at the group fabric haul.

Just a few pieces from my fabric haul.

Over the next few days, we did some serious power sewing.  Everyone enjoying the process and the company of fellow sewists.  There was all kinds of buzzing in the sew studio. We were helping fit each other, doing tutorials, snacking, and talking about the news of the day.  Gaylen and Jay are the best.  Hosting a Sew Camp is a big deal.  The preparing of the accommodations, meals, and sharing a lovely studio is a lot of work.  But Gaylen and Jay never failed to make this the most enjoyable experience.

Me with my sewing projects

On Saturday afternoon a few of us decided to take a walk to the local Quilt shop were they sold high end quilter's cotton and notions.  On the way, we stopped a fudge shop to pick up some treats.  After shopping back to Carriage Corner to continue with our sewing marathon.

Lady in the fudge shop

Fudge Shop

Carolyn kindly did photo shoots for each of us on Sunday and Monday.  Each of us have a series of photos to select from for Instagram and blog posts.  I think she took over 100 pictures of three outfits for me.  Great start for blogging my pattern and sewing project reviews.

Monday afternoon, my kind friend, Andrea, drove me and Laquana back to the airport for our flights home. I love everything about Sew Camp:  the location, the hopping, and the sewing with friends.  I'm looking forward to my next Sew Camp in 2020.

For more Sew Camp stories, check out these posts:

Carolyn, Diary of a Sewing Fantatic
Gaylen, gMarie Sews 
Andrea, Knit-Knac
Laquana, Made by Laquana 


Happy Sewing!
C

Simplicity Cargo Pants S5102 - A Little Challenge Among Friends

• Fabric Selected CHECK
• Pattern View Selected CHECK
• Friend To Sew The Challenge CHECK
• More Friends Can Join The Challenge _________________

Rhonda and I liked the Mood inspiration pants so much, we decided to do a little cargo pant challenge.   The pattern that we will use is Simplicity S5102.  It's out of print, but is still selling at some online pattern site.  If you like, you may join us.  Again, this is something that we thought to do for fun.

Our little challenge includes four cargo projects:  three pants and one skirt.  Each Friday (beginning July 5th), we will do a blog post featuring the finished project. The post will include a review of the pattern and the sewing process.   And of course some pictures of the finished project.  

• Week 1 - Any cargo pants view of Simplicity 5102.
• Week 2 - Use any cargo pants view and add some detail that you like.  For example, the lower leg zipper up the front of the inspiration pair above.  Really it can be from a inspiration photo or a pair of pants that you already own
• Week 3 - Another view of the cargo pants.  Again, something special that suits your own personal taste and style.
• Week 4 - Make a cargo skirt view of Simplicity 5102.

So we will have four weeks of showcasing our cargo projects.  Rhonda and I will also post on Instagram and in some Facebook sewing groups. Those posts will include the #sewcargocrazy and #sewcargo.  Please join us if you like.  It will be fun. 

Happy Sewing!
C

Inspiration: Cargo Pants

After returning home from SewCamp, immediately I started to reorganize sewing projects for the summer.  Part of that process is to gather some inspiration for the ideas that I could possibly incorporate in them.

Mood Inspiration Cargo Pants

Way back in May, Mood sent an email newsletter featuring the cutest cargo pants.  Then Rhonda posted it again on Instagram expressing how much she liked them.  She also posted on her blog an inspiration post for our cargo pant challenge.  We talked about doing a possible cargo pants challenge shortly after the Mood email.  I suggested Simplicity 5102.   I made them during the Summer of 2011, pictured above.  I need some new ones. :-)   (BTW- There will be a SewCamp post soon.)

So today, I wanted to feature some so cute cargo pants on my blog.

More to come on ideas and project for new cargo pants.

Happy Sewing!
C

I'm Still Here!

This month has been super busy for me.  On the first day, I was able to make two knit tops.  In my mind, I was off to a great start and hoped to post on my blog.  But someway, somehow, I didn't post anything.  I guess I can kinda blame IG for my lack of communication on the ole blog.  I seem to be spending more time on IG and watching YouTube than writing blog posts.

On the June 9th, the Haute Couture Club of Chicago was celebrating another year.  Our June banquet was at the Fortnightly, again.  I love this place and wish we could have it there every year.  At the June banquet we honor the current board of directors and install the new one board.  With the closing of the year, the current President (Rhonda Buss) inspired us with a Dior presentation.  It was wonderful. The imagines from the Dior exhibit were exquisite.  Rhonda's review of the of the exhibit was outstanding.  By the end of her talk, I was thinking about how to incorporate some "Dior" elements into my own creations.  So I'm hoping to do just that in this coming year.
    

Lowering the Bust Dart

Lowering the Bust Dart 2

Past two weeks, I've spent a lot of my time organizing projects, developing a few tutorials, and making pattern adjustments.  So I have about three "Notes on a Pattern" to post.  In the mist of all of this "sewing preparation" I was also preparing for Sew Camp.

I didn't forget about my own personal challenge of incorporating more neutrals in my wardrobe.  Along with the neutrals, I want I'm adding more greens and reds to my wardrobe.  These colors will soon splash across my blog and IG soon.

Let me not for forget that some of my absenteeism is due to no time to do photography.  Either the lighting in bad, it's raining, or too late in the day to take pictures.  These days I trying to improve upon the display of imagines on my blog and IG. 

Anyway, this concludes my little update.

Later,
C