Last night I finished the jeans (M5515). This post I wanted to mainly talk about the process of finishing the pockets and a few changes with the construction of the pants. The full review will come after I finish the jacket.
To stitch the design onto the pocket, I double the thread hoping that it would make the design stand out. As it turns out the tailor chalk stands out more than the actual stitching. Hoping it will wash out.
The next step after stitching, I determined the placement of the pockets. McCalls 5515 did not have a back pocket pattern. I used another pattern pocket. To help with the placement, I used an old pair of favorite jeans measuring the distance from the top of the pant and the center back. The end result placed my pockets with the back dart centered above them.
To hold the pocket in place, I added stitch witchery to each side of the pocket. Two stripes about 4 inches long were place beneath the seam allowance then pressed in place.
Back pocket sewn to the pant.
After completing the pockets, I went ahead with the construction of the rest of the pants/jeans making a few changes from the suggested process.
The instructions suggest that you shorten the zipper and make a new zipper stop. I placed the zipper stop at the large circle. Sewed it in place attaching the left fly. After the waistband was sewn, I cut the zipper even with the top of the pant. I also topstitched the waistband instead of slipstitching as suggested.
Finally, here's a shot of the inside of the zipper/fly area. The fly is tacked to the extension as suggested in the instructions.
This week, I'll work on completing the jacket.