Wednesday, January 11, 2012

McCall's 6163 - The First Cut - My Wearable Muslin


McCalls 6163


There another dress that was inspired by you. After seeing so many beautiful renditions of this dress on Pattern Review, I decided to give this dress a try.

This is my wearable muslin. After finishing the dress, I noted several things to change in the next version. The first is to use a better knit fabric. At first glance, I thought this knit was of fairly decent quality, but as I sewed and handled the fabric, I discovered it didn't have the texture or the durability that I assumed when I purchased it from the store. So I'm calling this my wearable muslin.

McCall's describes this dress pattern as a misses' and women's dresses and sash: Close fitting, above mid-knee length dresses A, B, C, D have mock wrap front, gathered at left side, collar, collar band, raglan sleeves, side zipper and stitched hems: dress A has below elbow length sleeves gathered with elastic; dress B has short sleeves and sash; dresses C, D have long gathered sleeves with cuff; dress D has sash with optional purchased tassels.

Sizing from 8 to 24W; I used 14 with modifications.

My dress looks like the dress worn by the model minus the belt. The instructions were typical and easy to follow. I used a knit jersey from Vogue.

My likes:

  • mock wrap dress - flattering
  • gathering or ruching at the side
  • full, gathered sleeve with cuff
  • loop closure on the cuff
  • center back seam for better fitting
  • belt option with tassel detail

My dislikes:

  • As pictured on the model, the cuff is wide. Note how it falls on the models hand. It's big enough to put your hand through the opening without unbuttoning the cuff. I like the cuff to fit closer to my wrist. Next time I will make the cuff smaller.
  • The vamp is a little low for my taste. I will raise it about a inch and half next time.
  • The collar band is too narrow for me. I'll add 1/4 inch to the next version.
  • The zipper is not necessary. I should be omitted from the design/instructions. I omitted it and was able to put the dress on without a struggle.

These changes (dislikes) will make the dress ideal for me.

I made a FBA following Ann's (Gorgeous Things) tutorial. This dress is short. I added two inches, could have added a few more. I also added elastic to the neck line to ensure a snug fit across the upper chest area. Sway back and a small shoulder blade adjustment as usual.

Like I said earlier, I will make this one again. It's a good one to try. Definitely a winner. It wears easy and not difficult to make.

24 comments:

  1. I love the style and thanks for stating all those dislikes I just got the pattern from last Mccall sale, I will note all your dislikes when I cut mine, so I won't have to make muslin...lo

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  2. A wearable muslin is like a bonus garment! Yay!

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  3. You look amazing in this dress! I know that this version has some issues but I can only imagine how wonderful the next version will be!

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  4. It looks great on you. I've been admiring this pattern for quite some time, don't know why I've shyed away from it.

    Could you either show or explain further your use of elastic in the neckline to prevent gaping???

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  5. Looking good. I must make me a wrap dress.

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  6. Fabulous dress! This looks like a great pattern that can be used all year round, I'll have to add it to my ever growing list!

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  7. You look gorgeous! The dress, the style, just work it lol!!!!

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  8. Nicely done, and it looks very sharp on you too. Thank goodness the changes you need to make on the next one sound fairly minor.

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  9. This wearable muslin is very wearable. It already looks great on you. It's a super flattering shape on you, the final dress will be awesome!

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  10. That's very pretty. All that lovely draping looks really nice on you.

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  11. It looks like a perfect fint. Very pretty!

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  12. Thanks ladies.

    Faye Lewis - For a quickie, I'll explain how I added the elastic to the neckline. I used 1/4" clear elastic. First, I stretched the elastic a bit. Then, I cut two pieces the length of the front neckline minus 1 inch. Next, I placed the elastic on top of the wrong side of the dress front along the edge of neckline having the elastic and the thread extended beyond the satin foot of the machine (for easy handling). Set the machine to a large zig zag with moderate spacing. Sew a few stitches. Stop with needle penetrating the elastic and fabric. Now extend the elastic to the end of the neckline and zig zag to the end. I usually set my machine on a slow speed so I can make adjustments as needed. To finish the neckline, I fold over the elasticized edge and stitch as instructed. Take it to the ironing board for a streamy press. (NOTE: I don't always finish the raw edges with a serger. And you won't have any problems with the knit fraying.) Your done. If you like I can do a tutorial on this.

    Thanks for asking.
    C

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  13. The dress looks great on you and like the ruching at the waist and to think its a muslin. I have the pattern and was concerned about the sleeves being too big and too fussy to tweak, so it just languishes among the other patterns.

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  14. I think this looks fantastic on you.I can't wait to see the "real" one.

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  15. I love it! You look gorgeous!

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  16. Oh my, I don't think you could look any more gorgeous. The dress is great too.

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  17. Your wearable muslin looks great and I love the color. The next version should be awesome.

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  18. It looks very nice. Thanks for sharing the info on FBA for a wrap blouse/dress. I just made this dress also. I will need to make a FBA and raise the vamp a little also next time. The link will come in handy.

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  19. I have this dress on my pattern table to make this year I am making it in a purple knit. I have always liked this pattern. I always add inches to dresses when they cross over my chest then grade it based on finished fit.

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  20. It looks beautiful! Thanks for sharing your tip on elasticizing the neckline. Can I ask a silly question? What do you mean by "raise the vamp"?

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  21. Cennetta, what a very nice dress! (especially for a wearable muslin!) I've had this pattern for a while and was wondering why I ever purchased it. Now I know why...it looks beautiful on you. Thanks for this great review, I'm definitely going to make it now using your modification ideas!

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  22. What a great dress on you. I love that you use elastic on the neckline. I always have problem with mock wraps and gaping necklines, and this is a great solution. Thanks for sharing.

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  23. Wow, it looks beautiful on you! You should make another one and incorporate the changes you want because it is a very flattering dress.

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