Mc Call's 6329 - Working with the Clothe

Happy Monday everyone,

I intended to post this on Friday, but the time got away from me.  I hope you're still interested in the process.  There are a few things I wanted to point out related to working with the clothe.  The first is to exercise a little caution when fitting the garment in fabric.  Fabric is flexible and can be easily molded unlike the tissue pattern.  Take into consideration the weave and texture of your fabric.  Some give more than others.


I made two jackets from M6329 for my DD.  The first is in a woolen from the Pendleton Woolen Mill Store in Portland.  It is a tight weave, not much give in the fabric.  The second is also a woolen but the weave is loose.  I pre-shrunk the black wool by tossing it in the dryer with a wet hand towel.  It came out softer, less body the before treating it.  The Pendleton wool was pre-shrunk by steam pressing  with the iron.  The body remained the same.  Both jackets will be dry cleaned.

For body, I interfaced the entire shell of the jacket.

Next, I pinned the shell to fit before sewing. I didn't like the one dart which is shown below in the brown jacket.  So I ripped it out and made two darts for a smoother look.  You don't have to stick to the original design of the jacket; it's only a guide.  You have the liberty to change what you like.

Here are both jackets with the two waist darts.  For the most part, I think brown jacket is in good shape.  But I need to re-set the sleeves in the black jacket.

 Note: For this picture I inserted one shoulder pad (above).  Her right side has wrinkles on the sleeve and shoulder area.  While the left side is smooth with the shoulder pad in place.

The sleeves and shoulder need to be re-set.

Parting tip:  If you are planning to sew a jacket, but don't want to interface the entire body, consider this technique for sewing an invisible hem.

Next the finished jackets.

Happy Sewing!
C