Thursday, August 7, 2014

Ruffled Bodice Dress - McCall 6518


Hi there!

First I wanted to thank everyone for your visits and comments on my blog. You are welcomed to ask questions and dialogue with me about the content posted here.

Yours truly,
Cennetta

This is one of my summer dresses that I was on the fence about publishing a review on. I finished it early July but was not totally pleased with the outcome. So, it took awhile for me to decide to publish a review. Why was I on the fence about it? Because I didn't think this dress was the best silhouette for me and the pressing wasn't that great either. I had decided that I didn't want to do the photo shoot again. So for the sake of not excluding projects because they are not the best, I decided to go ahead with publishing a review.



I purchased the pattern a few years ago. I liked the contrasting midriff, ruffled bodice, and the exposed zipper. Looking at the drawings and the photographed model versions, the skirt of the dress looks more penciled than a-linish. But in the end the silhouette was somewhere between the two. See instruction step 16 of the guide sheet for a true illustration of the skirt.

McCall's describes this as MISSES' LINED DRESS: Lined dress has fitted bodice with side front seams, midriff, single-layer ruffles (wrong side shows), front pleated/back darted skirt, side pockets, stitched hem and exposed back zipper. Midriff, hem and zipper: use decorative saddle stitch finish. Purchased ribbon trim. It comes in sizes 6 to 22. I used 14/16 with modifications.

Most of the instructions were clear, except those for installing the exposed zipper. I think they should have provided a few more steps to explain it. Click here for a better explanation of how to install a exposed zipper. I'm still practicing trying to achieve a clean installation all the way around.

I used a poplin purchased at Vogue Fabrics on Roosevelt Rd. I got it at a deal, $1.00 per yard. For the lining I used a remnant from my stash.

Of course I made quite a few adjustments to the bodice. They are:
 - FBA on the front bodice and the ruffles. If you planning to make this with a FBA don't forgot to make adjustments to the length of the ruffles. You will need to redraw the replacement lines for the ruffles.


 - Prominent shoulder blades adjustments. I added a small dart at the back shoulder seam and make deeper waist darts. - I only lined the bodice and midriff.

- I did not add ribbon to the midriff. (I need to make the midriff smaller and taper more below the bust line as it is still too roomy around the waist. This is easy to fit and maybe I'd like the dress more.) - I only added about 2" to the hem. I should have added more because this dress is pretty short. So instead of a 1.5" hem I only did a 1" hem.
 - I did not do any of the topstitching.

For some reason I couldn't/didn't do the best pressing on the bodice. I said that I was on the fence about publishing a review. I am forever trying to choose the best silhouettes for my shape, inverted triangle. I knew I was taking a chance with the ruffles on top as they add volume. I was hoping that the diagonal placement of the ruffles would make it a little more attractive on me.



In conclusion, I still think this is an attractive dress, but be warned. Make sure it is the correct silhouette for your body shape and you'll have to make some modifications if you want a little more shaping around the middle. Also, this is not a pencil skirt. It is more a-line than any other silhouette.

This dress isn't difficult to sew, but sewist may need a little more instruction on how to install the exposed zipper. But other than that an intermediate sewist should be able to make it. All pictures are on Flickr.

Happy Sewing!
Cennetta

17 comments:

  1. I love it. I like the color and the fit and don't see anything wrong with the pressing!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, Rachelle,
      I love the color. No matter how much I pressed, I couldn't get that extra crisp look. :-(

      Delete
  2. Despite your-on-the-fence-about-the-dress, I love it on you as well as the diagonal ruffle.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, Sheila. The diagonal ruffle works. I thankful for that. I'm climbing off the fence. Tee. Hee.

      Delete
  3. This looks good. I was also worried this wouldn't look good with all the ruffling. Yet you have proved me wrong. I guess in cases like this trying it out in a muslin makes since.

    The color works for you. If I were you I would get off the fence and wear it proudly.

    ReplyDelete
  4. I love the color but I know what you mean about the pressing and I think it is the fabric. I have made a few items from that cotton poplin and it seems so great in the yardage but after I sew it the seams never are as smooth as I would like. But very pretty on you and worth doing the adjustments you mention.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, Beth. I think it is the fabric too. It was a challenge pressing the front bodice. I'm going to make the changes and I think it will improve the look of the dress. Thanks again,
      C

      Delete
  5. I agree that this is a difficult dress for a full busted woman to pull off. I think it works.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, Gail. I think it works better than I thought. Good thing is I didn't spend a lot for the fabric to test it.

      Delete
  6. I think the dress looks very nice and the color is wonderful on you. I have seen you in many full skirts and think this bodice with a full skirt would be lovely.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Sueann,
      Thanks for the compliment. I will be more satisfied with the dress after I make the adjustment along the waist.

      Delete
  7. I think it looks great on you! The color is beautiful! I'm always concerned about a midriff band after making a few and now loving them. I think the shape looks very nice on yo, and the ruffles are fun!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, Jenny. I'm a fan of them as well.

      Delete
  8. I just watched a Craftsy class with Sandra Betzina literally minutes ago. She suggested sewing this type of fabric with all cotton thread. Maybe for next time.

    I like the dress a lot. I think the color is so pretty on you and more than makes up for any discomfort you feel about the dress's shape. It really is lovely on you.

    ReplyDelete
  9. I think you're being hard on yourself here--the shape is very flattering on you. The diagonal ruffles don't add volume on top the way symmetric side ruffles would (not that adding volume would be a problem, but it seems you don't want that). The color is great too!

    ReplyDelete

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