New Look 6940 - Wardrobe Builder Making It Work for Me

Purple Skirt M5523, Red Pants M6515 and Black Pants V8909

I finished the last top of this collection a few weeks ago.  The goal I had in mind was to tweak New Look 6940 until I was satisfied with the fit and to provide some information on the changes that I made to achieve that desired fit.

Selecting a wardrobe builder was the August, 2016, challenge for the Pericrafters group on Facebook.  Many of the group member made coordinates from another New Look pattern, which I've made the cardigan. I choose this pattern because it was a t-shirt with a twist.  Plain and simple; I like it.

My first version - black (View A with sleeve from view E), I basically cut the neckline size 14  hoping it would fit so I could avoid a FBA.  NOT.  As you can see in the picture the horizontal seaming in the bust area does not fall on at the base of the bust area.  I can pull it down, but sooner than later it rising about two inches above where I think it should fall.

NOTE:  You don't see the issue when the top is on my dress form.

My second version - black and white ( View A with Sleeve from Simplicity 4076) turned out a little better.  I made a small FBA.  This version is better, but I was not completely satisfied.   I considered this one a wearable muslin.  I could get by not having a perfect fit as the busy print does hide the small fit issue.  To stabilize the neckline, I added clear elastic to it.  It eliminates any gaping affect.  But this version solidified the fact that I needed to do my typical FBA.

To fit the bust/twist area, I made the adjustment below.  The alteration adds the appropriate amount of width and length, with the lower bust area gathered to fit the lower bodice section.

My third version- purple (View A with Sleeve from View E).  This last version has the complete FBA adjustment with a neckband added to the neckline.  You can barely see the gathers.  This version works.

Now that I have gotten the bodice front fitting issue out of the way, let me continue be review the rest of my sewing process.

The basic pattern information:

Pattern Description:  Misses knit tops for bodice and sleeve variations.

Pattern Sizing:  6 - 18; I used sizes 14 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Typical instructions; nothing confusing.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I like the twist front and the sleeve variation.  I dislike the wide neckline and the lack of a neckband.

Fabric Used:  For all three tops I used knit but of different degrees of stretch and fiber blend.

• Version 1 - Cotton blend knit - least amount of stretch (25%) from JoAnn's  (Leftover remnant from my Vogue 8909 jogging pants, which I will review soon)
• Version 2 - ITY knit  with about 35% stretch
• Version 3 - Sports knit from JoAnn's with about 35% stretch

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I made my usual sway adjustment.
I made a few design/construction changes:

• Gathers under the bust resulting from the FBA.  
• The neckline was too wide.  This is typical of New Look patterns.  I narrowed the width of it.  See front and back pattern shown above.  

           and,

• I like the stability of a neckband.  So I added one by measuring the length of the entire neckline.  Then substracting 3.5 inches.  I cut the neckband two inches wide.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, now that I've all the kinks out of it. I will definitely sew it again.  It's a great wardrobe builder.  I do recommend it to others.  Make a muslin first.


Happy Sewing!
C