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Wednesday, November 2, 2016

New Look 6940 - Wardrobe Builder Making It Work for Me

Purple Skirt M5523, Red Pants M6515 and Black Pants V8909

I finished the last top of this collection a few weeks ago.  The goal I had in mind was to tweak New Look 6940 until I was satisfied with the fit and to provide some information on the changes that I made to achieve that desired fit.

Selecting a wardrobe builder was the August, 2016, challenge for the Pericrafters group on Facebook.  Many of the group member made coordinates from another New Look pattern, which I've made the cardigan. I choose this pattern because it was a t-shirt with a twist.  Plain and simple; I like it.

My first version - black (View A with sleeve from view E), I basically cut the neckline size 14  hoping it would fit so I could avoid a FBA.  NOT.  As you can see in the picture the horizontal seaming in the bust area does not fall on at the base of the bust area.  I can pull it down, but sooner than later it rising about two inches above where I think it should fall.


NOTE:  You don't see the issue when the top is on my dress form.


My second version - black and white ( View A with Sleeve from Simplicity 4076) turned out a little better.  I made a small FBA.  This version is better, but I was not completely satisfied.   I considered this one a wearable muslin.  I could get by not having a perfect fit as the busy print does hide the small fit issue.  To stabilize the neckline, I added clear elastic to it.  It eliminates any gaping affect.  But this version solidified the fact that I needed to do my typical FBA.

To fit the bust/twist area, I made the adjustment below.  The alteration adds the appropriate amount of width and length, with the lower bust area gathered to fit the lower bodice section.



My third version- purple (View A with Sleeve from View E).  This last version has the complete FBA adjustment with a neckband added to the neckline.  You can barely see the gathers.  This version works.






Now that I have gotten the bodice front fitting issue out of the way, let me continue be review the rest of my sewing process.

The basic pattern information:

Pattern Description:  Misses knit tops for bodice and sleeve variations.

Pattern Sizing:  6 - 18; I used sizes 14 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Typical instructions; nothing confusing.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I like the twist front and the sleeve variation.  I dislike the wide neckline and the lack of a neckband.

Fabric Used:  For all three tops I used knit but of different degrees of stretch and fiber blend.

  • Version 1 - Cotton blend knit - least amount of stretch (25%) from JoAnn's  (Leftover remnant from my Vogue 8909 jogging pants, which I will review soon)
  • Version 2 - ITY knit  with about 35% stretch
  • Version 3 - Sports knit from JoAnn's with about 35% stretch

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I made my usual sway adjustment.
I made a few design/construction changes:


  • Gathers under the bust resulting from the FBA.  
  • The neckline was too wide.  This is typical of New Look patterns.  I narrowed the width of it.  See front and back pattern shown above.  
           and,

  • I like the stability of a neckband.  So I added one by measuring the length of the entire neckline.  Then substracting 3.5 inches.  I cut the neckband two inches wide.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, now that I've all the kinks out of it. I will definitely sew it again.  It's a great wardrobe builder.  I do recommend it to others.  Make a muslin first.


Happy Sewing!
C

9 comments:

  1. i love the top and think it looks great on you. More importantly, I can see you feel great in it after making the FBA. Look at that beaming smile!

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  2. You've done a great job with this top Cennetta. I loved seeing the progression of your FBA with each top. It was certainly worth all the effort, because that last top looks perfect on you. Love the colors! Love the fit! Love the smile!

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  3. I agree with Aisha...all the tops look great on you and I can say you definitely rocked that wardrobe challenge!

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  4. Love your tops, especially the purple one. Thanks for showing the FBA process for this--very helpful.

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  5. Love it! Thanks for showing how different knits and fitting adjustments changed the whole look... You look fantastic in all three.

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  6. Beautiful tops. You look amazing in them.

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  7. A really lovely top. Good thing that you now have sorted all the fit issues. Next one should be a breeze.

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  8. That was really interesting to see how you achieved the perfect fit by making and wearing a couple of them first. Glad you got a pattern that you can use going forward to enhance your wardrobe.

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  9. Very nice! These are so flattering.

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