|Purple Skirt M5523, Red Pants M6515 and Black Pants V8909|
I finished the last top of this collection a few weeks ago. The goal I had in mind was to tweak New Look 6940 until I was satisfied with the fit and to provide some information on the changes that I made to achieve that desired fit.
Selecting a wardrobe builder was the August, 2016, challenge for the Pericrafters group on Facebook. Many of the group member made coordinates from another New Look pattern, which I've made the cardigan. I choose this pattern because it was a t-shirt with a twist. Plain and simple; I like it.
My first version - black (View A with sleeve from view E), I basically cut the neckline size 14 hoping it would fit so I could avoid a FBA. NOT. As you can see in the picture the horizontal seaming in the bust area does not fall on at the base of the bust area. I can pull it down, but sooner than later it rising about two inches above where I think it should fall.
NOTE: You don't see the issue when the top is on my dress form.
My second version - black and white ( View A with Sleeve from Simplicity 4076) turned out a little better. I made a small FBA. This version is better, but I was not completely satisfied. I considered this one a wearable muslin. I could get by not having a perfect fit as the busy print does hide the small fit issue. To stabilize the neckline, I added clear elastic to it. It eliminates any gaping affect. But this version solidified the fact that I needed to do my typical FBA.
To fit the bust/twist area, I made the adjustment below. The alteration adds the appropriate amount of width and length, with the lower bust area gathered to fit the lower bodice section.
My third version- purple (View A with Sleeve from View E). This last version has the complete FBA adjustment with a neckband added to the neckline. You can barely see the gathers. This version works.
Now that I have gotten the bodice front fitting issue out of the way, let me continue be review the rest of my sewing process.
The basic pattern information:
Pattern Description: Misses knit tops for bodice and sleeve variations.
Pattern Sizing: 6 - 18; I used sizes 14 with modifications.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.
Were the instructions easy to follow? Typical instructions; nothing confusing.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the twist front and the sleeve variation. I dislike the wide neckline and the lack of a neckband.
Fabric Used: For all three tops I used knit but of different degrees of stretch and fiber blend.
- Version 1 - Cotton blend knit - least amount of stretch (25%) from JoAnn's (Leftover remnant from my Vogue 8909 jogging pants, which I will review soon)
- Version 2 - ITY knit with about 35% stretch
- Version 3 - Sports knit from JoAnn's with about 35% stretch
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I made my usual sway adjustment.
I made a few design/construction changes:
- Gathers under the bust resulting from the FBA.
- The neckline was too wide. This is typical of New Look patterns. I narrowed the width of it. See front and back pattern shown above.
- I like the stability of a neckband. So I added one by measuring the length of the entire neckline. Then substracting 3.5 inches. I cut the neckband two inches wide.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, now that I've all the kinks out of it. I will definitely sew it again. It's a great wardrobe builder. I do recommend it to others. Make a muslin first.