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Tuesday, February 6, 2018

The Neutral Staple Coat -- Italian Tan Angora Wool Coating B6385



I have wanted a tan, wool coat since forever.   Last year I decided to move this coat to the top of the list after I stumbled upon this gorgeous Italian Tan Angora Wool Coating.  It is exquisite.  Perfect for the classic silhouettes as well as the oversized boyfriend coat.  I wish Mood had this coating in every colors.


Please forgive the frown, the sun was very high.

The surface is super soft with a brush-like hand.  The drape is a little stiff; but no matter, it is the perfect match for Butterick 6385. 


Tan is the perfect  neutral to wear with anything.  I wanted a simple, softly tailored everyday coat that was warm, soft, and beautiful, coat that could stand up to the harshness of the strong winds that jet across lake Michigan.

By no means should this neutral be restricted to a "tailored" look.  You can pair it with many styles:  wide lapels, double breasted, or a flirty peplum on your styled coat.  All would showcase the beauty of this Italian wool.

My journey to make this coat was a long one.  I started working on how to fashion it  December 7, 2017.  In the beginning, I was slow to start.  There were many things to consider.  First, the pattern to be used.  Then, how closely I would actually follow the pattern's style and construction.

Once I decided, I was good to go, ready to see if my plan would work.  Let me start with my pattern description and why I chose it.   It is fitted, with princess seams, back yoke with forward shoulder seams, two piece sleeve, collar and pocket variations.  I closely followed the style of view B.  I wanted to make minimum pattern adjustments.  This one included separate pieces for A/B, C, and D cup sizes, a big help with reducing fit time.  It comes in sizes 6 to 22.  I used sizes 14 and 16 with additional modifications.

My modifications did not change the overall style lines of the coat.  So my coat looks similar to the picture/diagram.  I made several changes to the construction of the coat with my standard fit adjustments.

Fit Changes:
  • Skipped the FBA.  I added 1/2" to the length of the center front.  I don't like the marked distance from the edge to the button hole.  I like a little more room across the center front.
  • Lengthened the sleeve by 1".  Most coat sleeve are not long enough for me.  I always add a inch or so to make sure the edge of the sleeve covers my wrist bone.
  • Lengthened the body of the coat by 3".  I wanted it to fall below my knees.
  • Lowered the pocket 1.5".  They were at an uncomfortable height for resting my hand in the pocket.
  • Lowered the bust dart 1.5".  Too high in my opinion.
  • Swayback adjustment.  I tucked about 1/2" access at the lower back.  But I don't think it was enough, though.
  • The shortened the length of the shoulder seam.  I actually didn't cut the excess away.  It helped form the roundness of the sleeve cap.
Construction Changes:
  •  Bound Buttonholes instead of regular ones.  Six button holes instead of five.  It took my a long time to decide on the size of the buttonhole lips.  BTW- bound buttonholes are on my goals list for 2018.  I've made them several times before, but each time I nervous about how they will turn out.  I always do a practice test before making them on the garment.  Such was the case with this coat.



  • I interfaced the entire coat except for the sleeve.  I only interfaced the upper portion and the last 3" of the sleeve.


  • I made my own shoulder pads. 3/4" instead of 1/2".  The sleeve fits easily around and under my arm.  

Even though I changed a lot of the construction of the coat.  I did read the instructions.  They are typical and I saw nothing confusing in them.  For #17  edgestitch and topstitch ends of flap to side front was difficult to do because of the thickness of the fabric.  I hand stitched the flaps to the side front.

I'm very pleased with how my coat turned out.  I must admit when it came time to finish the inside of the bound buttonholes, I decided to sew something else to give me a break.  That is, three something elses.  ;-)   


Oh yeah, I almost forgot.  I have a million buttons.  When it came to finding the "right" buttons from my stash, I only had sets of four or five.  So initially, I sewed some round button on the coat.  Nope..,  no go.  So I made a trip to a local store to get yet another set of buttons.

So let me point out my likes:
  • Sleeves
  • Princess seam and back yoke
  • Buttonholes
  • The tan angora wool
My dislikes:
  •  The excess fabric above the bust area on the side front.  I tried eliminating it.  No luck.
I'm planning to make a coat for my daughter using the same pattern, but view A.

Overall, I am very pleased with my new tan (neutral) coat.  A perfect winter staple for the mid-west.  

Happy Sewing!
C

39 comments:

  1. Gorgeous! The coat looks wonderful and you look amazing in the coat.

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  2. Your coat is classic and gorgeous all at the same time!

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  3. A great timeless piece that looks great on you.

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    1. Thanks, Sheila. I can cross this one off the list. ;-)

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  4. Fabulous, you look fantastic in your new coat!

    I am exactly the same over bound buttonholes - lovely to know I am not alone. I constantly research all the different methods and suffer angst over which technique to for the perfect bound buttonhole!
    Which method did you use as they look so good.

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    1. Thanks, Marysia. I posted the tutorial links here: https://themahoganystylist.blogspot.com/2018/01/practice-practice-practice-bound-button.html

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  5. gorgeous! The color is perfect, flattering and classic. This is beautifully executed and will give you years of wonderful service, Cenetta. Love!

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    1. Thanks, Bunny. I'm hoping it last a very long time.

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  6. What lovely coat. I'm envious but here in the Southwest we don't have the weather necessary to wear one so I will stick to admiring yours, although I do have that pattern.
    Theresa in Tucson

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  7. This is a beautiful coat! I hope you enjoy wearing it.
    Lee, UK.

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  8. wow that is a classic, looks fantastic on you. perfect fabric choice.

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  9. Beautiful coat. Classic piece that will last you years.

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  10. Gorgeous coat and beautifully executed! Well done!

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  11. Oh wow...what a gorgeous coat. Classic and beautifully made - love it!

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    1. Thanks, Tomasa. I put a lot of time into it and hope it will last for many years.

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  12. Your coat is amazing! And gurl you can sew...it shows in all the wonderful techniques you used in the coat! I wanna be you when I grow up...*LOL*

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    1. Thanks, Carolyn. You always make me smile. I do tried to challenge myself. Fast fashion is okay times. But, growing my skill set is important.

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  13. Wow wow wee! That's impressive. Brava!

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  14. This coat is amazing! I love your blog post on the coat. I have never made bound buttonholes, but I am going forward and practicing making them before start making the coat. You have given me inspiration to do this coat! Wonderful post and pictures! Thank you 😊

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    1. Thanks, Jill. I'm happy that you are challenging yourself. ;-)

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  15. I just LOVE this coat on you! It will be a wonderful staple for years to come, and look good with so many things that you wear. Thanks for sharing your insight to this pattern!

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  16. Beautiful coat, and your skills are outstanding! Brrr ... looks so cold there. :-)

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    1. Thanks, Debbie. I do try. It's so cold here. This week temps between 8 to 22 degrees. Now, we are expecting 8 to 14 inches of snow over the weekend. My, my, my!

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  17. I already commented on Instagram, but I'll comment again because it's a terrific coat. It's such a great neutral that will go with everything, and certainly all of your favorite colors.
    I laughed when you mentioned putting it aside before you tackled the inside of your buttonholes, because honestly I find them harder than the buttonhole itself.
    I love the lining. It's so nice to have a surprise on the inside and it's unique to coat makers. You'd never find it in RTW!. A casual friend asked if I'd made my coat and I asked her how she knew and she said, she knew I sewed but the black and white silk charmeuse print was the give away as well as the bound buttonholes. Not something one finds in RTW.

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    1. Thank you, Nancy K. It was my hope to make a great coat. One that I could wear with pride and confidence. It was a lot of work, and like you why not make is special with a unique lining and special construction techniques. That's one of the great advantages of being able to sew as we do. Thanks again! ;-)

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  18. The coat is so freakin' fabulous! You look so chic.

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  19. Beautiful. Great workmanship. A coat is out of my league.

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  20. I just came across your blog. Everything you do is amazing! You are truly talented!

    Anne-Marie



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