Friday, July 13, 2018

Notes on a Pattern - McCall 7753

Hi everyone,

This is another installment of Notes on a Pattern.  I hope these notes are helpful.  One thing I'd like to point out "again" is that I understand that we all are different shapes and sizes.  With that understanding, I also know that there are ladies that have a similar silhouette as I do.  The thing that motivates me to post my pattern adjustments is it may help someone with their own fit adjustments like so many other sewists have helped me.  Anyway..,

We are three weeks into summer, and it is hot and sticky in the mid-west.  And before we know it, it will be fall again.  So I'm trying to get as much summer sewing done as possible.  For the most part, I'm concentrating my efforts on separates: skirts, tops, and pants.  Of course, I will include a few dresses too. ;-)

Right now, I'm working on fitting McCall 7753 (among other things).  At first I thought I'd take a pass on this one.  Simply because it does not have princess seams, which would make it easier for me to do the FBA.  I can count on having to do some form of FBA for any upper body garment.  Initially, I got tired just thinking about what the possible fitting changes would be.  But about two weeks ago, I decided it won't be too bad.  So I purchased the pattern at a June JoAnn's pattern sale.

I could see myself wearing views A and B.

Looking at the front and back pattern pieces first, I made on the front a FBA.  I'm always skeptical about huge bust darts.  I hate that weird dimpling affect.  One option is to make two bust darts on each side, and the other options is to do the "Y" technique that extends the spread into the upper chest area.  Doing the later produces a smaller bust dart in my opinion.  After I made the FBA on both sides I moved the darts down about an inch and rotated them.  This adjustment created a lot of width across the lower bodice that I don't need.  So finally, I added waist darts.

For the back, I made a prominent shoulder blade adjustment.  To keep the back pattern balanced added the same width on the right side.  For the left side, I'll add a small shoulder dart and for the left side I'll ease in the access as needed.  Finally, I added waist darts.

Here are the pattern front and back after the adjustments.  Plus you can see markings indicating that I need to raise the top edge of the front about an inch.

The back will not have a horizontal seam.  I was running out of muslin.

Next Step - Make a Muslin

I sewed the muslin together.  As I suspected, there is slight gapping in the neckline, which can be eased.  I need to move the front waist darts over towards the center a bit.  And raise the armhole area of the left side.  I think these additional adjustments will complete the necessary changes for the front and back.

Now, I can make the adjustments on the front and back facings; then check the fit of the collar to make sure it's falls at the appropriate place on the neckline.  The construction is not difficult or confusing.  So, after these last few tweaks, I'll be ready to cut into my fashion fabric.

Happy Sewing!



  1. Your installment of Notes on a Pattern are really appreciated as far as I'm concerned. I learn aot from them. Thanks Cenetta for taking the time to share them.

  2. We definitely have different shapes as I am no where near as tall as you but I really enjoy seeing your approach to fitting. Keep sharing!

    1. Hi Bunny, thank you. My whole thought was is it worth posting. It's to help me as I go through the process.

  3. Hi Cennetta! I just wanted to let you know I truly appreciate your notes on a pattern posts. You have inspired me to take time to read more books about adjusting patterns for my body type. Thanks!

  4. Hi,
    Had you considered removing the vertical darts or creating a princess seam from the side and vertical dart?

    1. MLGA, I thought about that, but I was able to make the FBA work without it.

  5. I really enjoy these Notes on Pattern posts. It's so helpful to see how you are working through the pattern challenges and to learn more about what dictates your choice of alterations. Thank you for sharing your wisdom!



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