Showing posts with label t-shirts. Show all posts
Showing posts with label t-shirts. Show all posts

Thursday, July 28, 2011

Knit Tops A Plenty - M6036


The topic of this post is to review M6036. But the underlining subject is to discuss some of the issues related to fitting my DD’s torso. Over the past few years, I tried to figure out which adjustment would best resolve the pulling cross the upper chest area. I tried making a broad and square shoulder adjustment. But that didn’t completely resolve the issue. This year I made a muslin out of some cheapo knit. While fitting the t-shirt, I realized she also has a pigeon chest. Dah.., This means her collar bone and (rib cage) chest area is more pronounced than the rest of her upper body. I pulled out my “sewing Bible”, Vogue Sewing, to see what it says about diagnosing this type of adjustment. The illustration showed the same type of pulling at the armholes that I’ve seen in RTW and a few garments that I’ve made for her.

So following the instructions in Vogue Sewing, I made the adjustments to the pattern.


The good news is the pigeon chest adjustment is similar to the prominent shoulder blade adjustment. So it’s easy to do. It’s a matter of slicing the pattern in the right place and then spread it for the needed amount of space. The bad news is there is still a problem with fitting the back torso. Because her chest is pronounced, her back is slightly concaved and swayed which creates vertical and horizontal pooling of fabric in various regions of her back. Sometimes, I’m able to fold some of the excess fabric out along the center back and across the lower back (horizontal fold), but there are instances where my method does not completely solve the problem. Suggestions are welcome.

All year long, she has been begging me for t-shirts. Finally, I sat down to revisit the fitting issues. For the most part the issues are resolved. So I made her three t-shirt using M6036. I’m still not satisfied with the fit right at fold between the chest and armhole. It hollow there.


My second issue is upper finishing of the armhole. On some t-shirts it looks bulky across the ball of the shoulder. I think that can be easily fitted by trimming away most of the seam allowance. I need to do a little more tweaking, but that’s it. Knits can be very forgiving. With right amount of stretch in a “good” knit fabric, fitting becomes less complicated. To conclude on the fitting part, I was able to produce a few decent t-shirts for her by making a few adjustment s in the front and a sway back adjustment.

Here is the rest of the review:

Pattern Description: MISSES' TOPS: Close fitting, pullover tops A, B, C, D, E have rounded or scooped neckline; top A has purchased lace appliques; top B has contrast flowers; top C has front ruffles; top D has appliques cut from lace fabric; top E has neckline ruffle.

Pattern Sizing: X-Small to X-Large

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? The basic t-shirt yes. But as for the embellishment, I didn't do any. I wanted to get the t-shirt fitting down pat.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yep. I just glance at them.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the embellishment options. I use them later. No dislikes.

Fabric Used: Sweater knit from Walmart; jersey knit from Vogue(Evanston) and JoAnn's. All of them had a fair amount of stretch and great recovery.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Most of the alterations are discussed above. Other changes:

Added some rushing on the sides of two t's.
Modified the sleeve length.
Added a neckband.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes and yes.

All photos are on Flickr.

Conclusion: I used this pattern to help address some fitting issues for my daughter (sloper).  There is nothing difficult about making the basic t-shirt and the embellishment designs could be used to spruce up your shirts.

Monday, November 22, 2010

S4076 Tried and True


S4076

Countless times I've noted on this blog "this is a favorite pattern" or "Yes, I will make it again." This is one that will never loss favor. It's surely a TNT that I can pull out and have a successful sewing experience. This treasure has been reviewed on PR 184 times. It is noted as a The Best Pattern of 2008 and is inducted in The Hall of Fame 2009. So there is really no need for me to review it again on PR, but I want to show my latest versions of the top and to talk a little about the knit fabrics that I used to make them. To date, I have made six tops: two wrap tops and four of the t-shirt style with sleeve variations.





Early Saturday morning (7:00am) I started to sew three more t-shirts that I cut several weeks ago. These are easy to sew. It took me about three hours to complete all three.

All of the fabrics were found in the Vogue Remnant Room. Each of them had varying amounts of stretch. The brown and white was closest to a stable knit (matte jersey) while the yellow/orange/black had about 45 percent stretch both ways.




More and more I'm paying close attention to the weave of fabrics and their fiber content. Noticing whether it's loosely woven or tightly knit. I'm finding it play a role in how the garment will lay on the body and how much wearing ease it needed for comfort. The last thing any of us wants to do is fight with your clothes.

Fitting garments made of knit fabrics is easier than woven fabrics. For these tops I didn't do a FBA. I cut size 14 for the neckline and size 16 more or less for the rest. The brown and white top fits slightly closer than the other two tops, but all fit. The patterns in the fabric make the bra line invisible and forgives the little bodily imperfections.

So ladies, consider the weave of your fabric as you consider the amount of wearing ease you want to build into your garments.

Happy Sewing!
C

Friday, July 24, 2009

Lining Up The Projects

This week I've been organizing projects. Since I don't have an exclusive sewing room, I use my dining room table as my cutting table. Because the dining room serves a dual purpose, I tend to cut multiple projects at a time. Organizing the notions to be used putting them into a "project" bag with the cut to-be-garment(s). Yesterday I finished cutting two dresses and traced off three BWOF patterns. Now I'm at the point of finishing the seam allowances on some of the items. Things cut so far: 3 dresses, 1 pair of jeans, 1 jean jacket, one knit top.

My DD is finishing up the summer session and will have two more semesters before graduation. Thank you, Jesus! She is looking for an internship. This fall I'm hoping to help the employment effort with two mini wardrobes.

The first group:



Items to be made - Jacket and pants (Brown/Beige Hounds Tooth wool blend), top (creme jersey), and dress (cranberry wool crepe).

The second group:



Colors - Purple, Black, and Grey
Items to be made - Jacket (black wool blend [have it not photographed]), dress (plum silk cotton), pant (grey wool blend), and skirt (plum crepe wool).

The numbering of the groups won't dictate which will be completed first. I just wanted to distinguish the two. May be I'll give them some cute name later. But for now it's group 1 and 2.

Well, as always I have plenty to sew. So I better get cracking. Today is a "Sew" day for me.

Happy Sewing!
C

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