Custom Clothing Labels - Dutch Label Shop

Good morning everyone,

I hope you had a fantastic weekend.  It's been super busy around here.  The Christmas season is here and I'm exciting about sharing the season with family and friends. 

Today I'd like to extend a special order to you from Dutch Label Shop.  They make the most fabulous custom labels for all your custom design needs.  For the next 32 days (January 12, 2019) you can get a 15% discount on your order of labels.  All you need to do is use the code themahoganystylist15 when you place your order.

Before placing your order you'll want to spend a little time thinking about how to design your custom labels.  The website is very easy to navigate.  Just go to the Dutch Label Shop and create an account. 

On the portal page, there are three links to help you navigate and create your labels:  with inspiration, with guidance, and with quality.  Once you have created your labels  and submit your order, you will be asked to confirm your order before the labels are shipped to you.  This is very helpful in the event something is misspelled or missing from your design.

The labels are of the high quality.  I am looking forward to including them in my clothes.

So hurry while the offer is available.  You won't be disappointed.

Notes on a Pattern - McCall 7288 Part II

Today I'd like to share a few more tidbits  I purchased this pattern a couple of years ago, not knowing what fabric or what view I would make.  What I did know is I like the styles and hoped that the multiple cup patterns would eliminate some of my fit issues.

So, I decided to used this really cooll gradient fabric that I purchased from Fabric Mart last March.  It was sold by the panel and I only purchased three.  So I was a little short on fabric for cutting two back yokes and two collars on the fold.

No worries, though.  There was enough to cut one of each as two pieces.  I used the two-piece collar as the under collar and the two-piece back yoke for the inside yoke facing.  So it worked out.

This is such an easy pattern to sew, I thought of adding triangle shaped bound-buttonholes.  I had a couple of test.  But decided to just make regular ones.

The surface of the fabric is really beautiful.  Half of the panel has a raised gradient pattern from red to black.  The other half is solid black with a faux quilted texture.  In hind site, I wish I had gotten another panel for a skirt.


My likes include style and construction.

• Collar variations 
• Pleated back with band, view D
• Length of views B and D; both elongate the body.  So I look slimmer.
• The slight flare below the waist.  Gives the illusion of hips for me.
• Back yoke added interest 
• Princess seam front; added ease to making adjustments.
• Sewing was super easy.  The jacket went together with no problem with the exception of the sleeve cap.  I fiddled with it and still was no able to get it as smooth as I would like.

My dislikes style:

• One-piece sleeve.  I prefer a two-piece sleeve.  
• Unlined.  
• Too much ease in sleeve cap

Stay tuned for the final post of me wearing my jacket.

Parting Shots:  My nearly completed jacket.

Happy Sewing!
C

Notes of a Pattern - McCall 7288 Part I

I really didn't want another day to go by without posting something.  So today, I decided to do a "Notes on a Pattern."  for McCall 7288, view B with collar of view D.

During my recovery I had a little time to work on some new sewing projects, in additional to the UFO's I finished. What I haven't had much time to do is take pictures.  It's gloomy and cold in the midwest.  Too cold for me to really go outside with or without a coat on.  Picture taking is challenging right now.  Maybe this weekend I'll have better luck.

It is a multiple size/cup pattern with collar and back variations.  The jacket is unlined with front princess seam, self-lined front and yoke back.  I made a muslin to help me get the FBA fitting right.  Additionally, I wanted the upper back and sleeves to have enough room.

Sewing the muslin - 

I started by simply selected my size, cutting it with no changes to see if my adjustments were consistent with what I typically need minus the cup size.  The fitting revealed most of my usual changes:

• swayback
• deeper back darts
• prominent shoulder blades 
• lower bust apex
• lengthen sleeve  

plus a few more:

• tight sleeve
• shorten neckline 

Let's start with the back.  I made my usual swayback adjustment.  This adjustment includes a tuck across the lower back, starting with a center back tuck of 3/4" and reduced to 1/16" before the side seam.  The second step is to add the amount of the tuck to the hem of the back jacket to balance out the hem.  After trying on the muslin, I noticed that the fish eye dart needed to be deeper.  This is one of the adjustments you can make as you sew.   So I don't worry about this until I make the actual jacket.

To the back yoke I added about 1/2" to the outer shoulder seam to give me room cross the upper back area.

The whole idea behind the multiple cup size patterns is to reduce the amount of adjustments needed.  And the multiple size does help, in this case; but there is still some tweaking to do.  First, I moved the apex down about 1" and trued up the edges of the front and side front patterns.  Also, on the front I made a tuck in the neckline to reduce gapping.  Unfortunately, this pattern change was made after I cut the jacket out.  I didn't notice/see it in the muslin.  Does that ever happen to any of you?  Anyway, the change was made on the collars as well.

Typically, I don't have a problem with tight sleeves; but the one piece sleeve was a little tight (muslin) and not long enough.  Below is that adjustment.  I simply made a vertical and horizontal cuts in the center almost to the cutting edge and spread the pattern about an inch.  Next, I added about 2": 1" in the upper and 1" in the lower arm.  If I use the pattern again, I may substitute the one piece sleeve for a two piece one.

Sewing -

The sewing was easy.  Nothing confusing or difficult.  That's always welcome after laboring over the fit.

Next, more details on making the actual jacket.

Happy Sewing!
C

This and That

It's been well over a month since my last post.  A lot has happened since then.  First, my sewing and posting was interrupted by vacation.  Tee Hee.  Then shortly thereafter, I had a minor surgery to correct my deviated septum.  For years I've been suffering with sinus issues.  Hopefully, the surgery will make things better.

Vacation was more for relaxation.  I didn't do any tours and no serious sightseeing.  There were only three ports of call this trip:  Haiti, Jamaica, and Cozumel.  I've been to Jamaica and Cozumel over at least a half dozen times each.  So it was no biggie.  The Oasis of the Sea is a grand ship.  It has a park, zip lining, and several swimming pools/Jacuzzis.

Central Park was located on deck eight, the same deck as my cabin.  It was nice to walk through the park each morning.  And sometimes we walked through after dinner.  Another convenience on deck eight was the jazz bar was about 100 feet away from my room too.  And when there was no show in the theater, you would find me at the jazz bar enjoying the band.

I was happy to have a low key vacation mainly because I haven't felt well for months.  My nasal issues and allergies have wreak havoc on me the entire spring/summer seasons. This is my third week in recovery.  I've had two follow up appointments thus far.  Another is schedule for the 30th.  Dr. Michael Friedman is my surgeon.  He is the same doctor that performed the thyroidectomy four years ago.  He is top in his field (ENT), which has given me a level of comfort.  But there is God, who is the ultimate healer. The one I pray to when I am sick and afraid of what may lie ahead.

In early October I blogged about posting some of my least favorite projects.  I'm still going to do that starting tomorrow.  Also, I will post about some UFO's that have been lingering in the closet of my sewing studio for more than a year.  About two week ago, I mustard up some strength to do a little sewing, like a three hours interval every other day.  I finished:

New Look 6560 Wrap top - I was supposed to take this on vacation.  Cut about two weeks before vacation.

New Look 6735  Cardigan - 2 of them:  brown and red cut summer 2017.

McCall    6996 Cardigan - This cardigan was cut about 1.5 months ago.  So that not to bad on getting it finished.

Butterick 6393  Caccoon cardigan cut summer 2017.

WIP:

M7288 Jacket, View D -  This is going to be a long post.  Lots of changes to a multi-cup size pattern.


V1570 Pants, View without the drape.  Easy make.  (no pictures yet)


Anyway..,  This is all for now.  I hope to continue posting through the holiday season.  I can't believe the year is almost over.

Happy Sewing!
C

Mood Taupe Sweater Knit Rayon - Perfect for TNT T-Shirt Dress Vogue 1314

Now, who doesn't love a great t-shirt dress?

My latest dress made is my TNT V1314 t-shirt dress in Mood's Taupe Sweater Knit Printed Rayon Jersey.  Believe me, this one fabric you don't want to pass up!  It is a super soft beefy knit.  It really doesn't look like sweater knit, but it's much thicker than your average rayon jersey.  The drape is fluid, and it lays gently against the skin.  It is great!

 

 

Vogue 1314 is in high rotation on the cutting table.  This is the third dress that I've made this year.  And I've used the pattern a total of eight times so far. ;-)

Guess what?  This will not be the last time you see this pattern made up in some amazing fabric.  It's quick and very easy.  From cutting table to hem, it's takes me about 2.5 hours to crank one of these babies out.  Perfect go to pattern when you need a simple, cute dress that is also great staple that you can dress up or down.

I like wearing this version with shoes that pop and a great statement shoulder bag.

With that being said, I'm off to a great start with my Fall wardrobe. Quick, easy, and ready for the crisp, cool breeze of the fall season.  That's all for now!

Happy Sewing!
C

McCall's Flounce Top Is Not The Top For Me - M7687

I so wanted this top to work for me.  But what was I thinking?  The volume of this top was all wrong for me.  My bad!

My goal of posting this review is to get all of my projects posted before the end of this year: good or bad; success or failure; in my closet or not.  This one falls in the category of failure to compliment my figure.  I started this project way back in June with a muslin minus the flounce. I completely worked out the fit and style issues.  So I thought.

As far as the sewing review is concern, making the top was a success.  I was able to achieve a good fit (I'll try a different view later.). The sewing process was not difficult and the instructions were typical, but easy to follow.

Just to be consistent with other reviews, let me include a few more points about the sewing experience process:

Pattern description and size:   Fitted tops have front and back princess seams, back button closure, and sleeve variations.  Sizes 6 to 22.  I started with size 16 with modifications.

My likes and dislikes:  First my likes; the sleeve variations and the flounce version.  My dislike:  back button closure.

Fabric:  This cotton voile came from Mood Fabrics.  It's a beautiful fabric to work with.  I'd hoped to post this project on the Mood Sewing Network; but because I wasn't all together happy with it, I chose not to.

Changes and alterations:  After making the FBA, I ended up with a lot of unwanted fabric below the bust area.  This always happens and I always forget to just remove it before I make the muslin.  It the same every time.  With this top, I noticed it was also a little roomy in the neck and shoulder areas.  But once I tweaked the muslin and made the changes to the tissue pattern, it was good to make.  Not to forget, I also did a prominent shoulder blade adjustment with a swayback tuck at the waistline.  I added a short sleeves.

Final notes:  The sewing process was fine.  I just made the wrong view for me.  I will donate the top to someone who likes it.  The back button closure is not my favorite detail, but I give it at least one more try.

Parting Shots:  Me wearing the top with another of my less favorable projects from the summer.  I'll review McCall 7726 soon.  In the meantime, make it a great day. 

I used the remnant to make seam binding for my Butterick 6329 jacket/cardigan.

DD's Swimsuit - No Longer A UFO! Butterick 6358 and McCall 7578

I'm so happy to finally post my first swimsuit ever.  I cut this suit out early LAST year for my daughter.  While organizing my September projects, I found this on top of one of my "to make" bags of sewing projects.  Mentally, I'm shook my head and said, "This does not make any sense."  Sew this up today.  And I did.  It was literally the first project that I finished in September.

My DD wanted a bikini and selected the top of McCall-view A M7578 and bottom Butterick-view B  B6358.  Of course, anything for the kid, I mean almost anything. Wink, wink.  We went to JoAnn's to get the fabric.  They have a fairly large selection of activewear fabrics.  For this suit, we didn't need I lot. 

I used a Schwertz microtex sewing needle, size 12

So, let me start with the bikini pants.  B6358 - Lined swimsuits are close-fitting, cut on crosswise grain, and elasticized.  B: Tie ends.  I used size 12.

I loved making these.  This was a fun project that turnout very well.  The fit was spot on.  The cute little tie and the peep hole add interest to a common bikini style.  Sorry no pictures of her wearing the suit.  I tried.., she said, "No, photo shoot for me." 

I followed the instruction and had no problems.  They really went together in no time at all.  They are completely lined with a white swim knit. I used a 3/8" cotton elastic for the legs and the center back section.  To finish the elasticized seams, I used a stretch zigzag stitch.  I finished the waistband on the serger.  That's it.  No time at all to make them.

Next, for the bra I used McCall 7578, view A.  It's really a workout top (to me anyway); my DD wanted to use it instead of the bikini bra that is include with Butterick 6358. 

M7578 -  It's described as close-fitting lined pullover bra with front and back princess seams.  I contracted the front and back to match the bikini pants.  Again, I used size 12, with modifications this time.

The bra was also easy to sew and is fully lined.  I just followed the instructions and had no problems.  Once I sewed the outer shell together, she tried it on.  Unlike the bikini pants it was too large in the bust area.  I simply increase the depth of the seams to get a better fit.  For the front and the neckbands I could have used size 10 instead. 

All in all both projects went together very quickly with minimal adjustments needed.  This experience has encouraged me to try a few more swimsuit projects.

Stay Tune!
C