More Stash Busting with S8389 and S9894

More Stash busting with patterns that I've sewn before.  I'm so pleased with being able to shop my stash.  It is so gratifying to move these lovely fabrics from the sewing studio to the closet.  I hope to get some picture of me wearing these garments very soon.

Patterns used: Simplicity S9894  My review is here.  And Simplicity S8389 (TNT); reviews are here.

There is not much to say about these projects as I have reviewed the patterns before.  I hope to have pictures of my wearing them soon.

Parting shot:  This is just a photo of the July book club book, "The Guest List" by Lucy Foley.  It was a very good murder mystery.  If you are interested, I highly recommend it.  Thanks for your visit to my blog.

Easy Simplicity Pullover Top - S9679 in Review

I've had Simplicity S9679 in my pattern collection for a while. I am just getting around to sewing it.  Of course, I had to do my usual fit adjustments; FBA and swayback.  In this review, I paired it with a TNT pants pattern S8389.  It is a go-to for an easy fit and sew coordinate.  

So let's begin the pattern review of Simplicity S9679

Pattern Description:  Misses' knit top with sleeve variations.

Pattern Sizing:  4 - 20; I used size 16 with modifications.  I made view B.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, it did.  Slight changes to address the adjustments made.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Yes,  the instructions were typical; nothing difficult or confusing in them.  

Was the construction easy?  Yes, the top went together with ease.  The most tedious part was finishing the opening across the upper chest and back.  This step required you to take your time.  This area is a focal point of the top.  I used some steam a seam to hold everything in place as I sewed.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  For this version of the top I have likes and dislikes.

 Likes -

• The seaming and the opening at the upper body. 
• The slant of the neck opening.  It adds interest to what would a simple pullover top.

Dislikes -

• Finishing of the armhole.  I added a binding to finish it.
• The armhole fit.  I could have created the problem when I slightly rise it.  But this is something that I noticed in other tops that have a sleeveless and sleeved version that used the same front and back pattern.  For my next version I'll try to address that.

Fabric Used:  I used a ribbed knit from Fashion Fabric Fabrics.  I love the chartreuse color of it.  The stretch recovery could be better.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  

• FBA - I used my molly t-shirt pattern to make it.  You can see where are made changes along the sides and at the lower front armhole.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

• Swayback adjustment - I first cut the lower back into two pattern pieces.  Next, I made the tuck on each pieces and added at the hem.  I added seam allowance to both patterns where they would be joined.   I didn't make a prominent shoulder blade adjustment.  It appears to be okay without it. 
• I shorten the opening to eliminate any gapping.
• I cut binding out of the fashion fabric to finish the armhole.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I plan to sew view C. And yes, I recommend it to others.

Conclusion:  I enjoyed making this pullover top.  It is a change from the typical t-shirt style pullover.  You can dress it up or down.  It's easy to sew for all sewing levels.

Happy Sewing!

C

Sewing Updates

Hi everyone,

July is almost over! Can you believe it?  

It seems like the month of July flew by.  We are already more than half way into 2025, and I just got used to writing 2025.  Lol

Anyway, it has been a very busy month full of festive celebrations and plenty of sewing for me.  As part of my 2025 sewing goals, I wanted to purge, organize, and sew my stash.  This month, I was quite successful.  I have plenty to share over the next few weeks.  Many of my newly finished projects have not been photographed with me wearing them.  But I hope to get photos soon.  

My greatest focus has been on sewing my stash to reduce the amount of fabric that I have to organize in the fall.  

So stay tuned for more on my recent sewing projects.

Happy Sewing!

Cennetta

Summery Pleated Top - Vogue V1387

Pattern Description:  Misses' top:  top has self-lined yokes, front pleats, shaped hemline, and very narrow hem.  A, front longer than back and B, back longer than front, wrong side shows,  A: mock wrap, pullover, fitted through bust, no shoulder seams, elasticized tie ends for casing, underarm inset, and armhole bands.  B:  loose-fitting, collar, front bands with snap closing, and long sleeves with pleats, placket and snaps cuffs.  I made view A.

Pattern Sizing:  Size groups (6-14) (16-22)  I used size 16 with modifications.  See previous posts for more information.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, for the most part.  I added two pleats and lengthen the hem a bit. 

 

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were typical.  The only little hiccup was inserting the the gusset at the lower armhole.  It is important to mark as indicated and sew the exact seam allowance throughout.  For the hem, I never follow the instruction for that.  I stitch two rounds to make the hem.  first round sew hem at 1/8" trim where necessary.  Then, I turn the hem and repeat, no trimming.  This gives me a clean, nice finished rolled hem.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I like the style of the top.  No dislikes.

Fabric Used:  The fabric feels much like a rayon challis, but it doesn't press as easy.  So, I suspect that it is a blend.  I really like it doesn't wrinkle easy.  I purchased it at Hobby Lobby last year.


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  See this post for alterations/adjustments.  Additionally, I made adjustments to the placement of the gathers across the back for better fit near the arm area.  Second, I think the placement of the pleats can also be adjusted to fall more over the bust area. Finally, I added the same width to the lower portions of the top to match the width of the upper bodice.  

Extra:  I shorten the recommended elastic length and made the ties longer. 

 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, I plan to make it again soon.  And yes, I do recommend it to others.

Conclusion: I'm happy with how this top turned out.  It was fairly easy to sew.  This top can be worn during the warmer alone: Or it can be worn in the cooler months layered with a cardigan or jacket. 

Happy Sewing!

C

Notes on a Pattern - Vogue V1387

Today, I wanted to share a few notes on Vogue V1387, view A.  This pattern has been in my collection for a several years.  I hesitated to attempt to make the full bust adjustment (FBA).  I thought about it and determine the following would be the way to go.  There is probably a more effective solution, but this is how I chose to tackle the fit adjustment.

I started with slashing the upper bodice vertically from the pleated area to the waist, adding paper to fill the space.

Next, I added length by slashing the front bodice horizontally.  The same amount of length was added to the back upper bodice (not shown).

Then, I redistributed the pleats and the space between them.  Now, there are three pleats instead of two.

After making these adjustments, I made a muslin to check the fit.  When I tried on the muslin, I identified a few more adjustments needed.  NOTE:  don't skip sewing the armband and gusset. It will help you determine if there is a good fit in the armhole and bust and upper back areas.

Additional adjustments after fitting the muslin:

• more vertical width (front bodice) resulting in a fourth pleats.
• more vertical width across the back.  I noticed pull at the shoulder blades.
• added tuck in the yoke at the upper back.
• added length where the shoulder seam would be.
• reduced fullness at the lower back just above the waist.

More later.

Happy Sewing!

C

The Brocade Makes The Jacket - Butterick B6915

A little over a year ago, I briefly mentioned my work on the muslin for the jacket of this pattern.  Since that time, I did more tweaking of the pattern and decided to use a beautiful brocade that I purchased from Mood Fabrics several years ago during a visit to New York.  

I thought the style of the jacket was the perfect match for the brocade.  Granted I did want to reduce any chance of something going wrong or turning out wonky before I cut into my fabric.  I really love the fabric and wanted to make something special with it.   

We are now in the hot, muggy days of summer.  It was 94 degrees when I took the photos of me wearing my outfit.  Though the coloration of my new suit is bright and cheery, it is perfect for the fall/winter season.  

Pattern Description:  Classic two-piece suit with a twist.  Lined jacket draws asymmetrically across the body and fastens with three buttons.  Jacket features flap detail at front.  Pants come in ankle length and includes invisible zipper on the side.  View C are wide leg pants.  I made view A and B.

Pattern Sizing:  It comes in two size groups (8 - 16) and (18 - 26) I used size 16 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, my outfit does look like the drawing and the suit that the model is wearing.  

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were typical and easy to follow.  There was nothing confusing about them.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  

Likes -

• The asymmetrical style line of the jacket.
• The pleats at the neckline of the jacket
• The princess seam.

Dislikes -

• The one piece sleeve.  I prefer a two piece sleeve for a suit jacket.  These sleeves were snug and there was too much in the sleeve cap for my fabric.  When I made the muslin the amount of ease in the sleeve cap was easy to work into the armhole.  But in the brocade it was slightly difficult.  I had to set the sleeve three times.

Fabric Used:  My fabrics were purchased at Mood Fabrics during a trip to met up with several sewing friends (Carolyn, Andrea, Gaylen)  in New York.  My jacket fabric is a silk brocade and the pants is a medium weight polyester satin.  

 
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I made several pattern adjustments beginning with the full bust adjustment and my usual back adjustments.  I also lengthen the sleeves and added an inch width to the upper arm area.  For the pants I had to lengthen the leg and crotch.  Sorry no photo of that adjustment.

After making the adjustments and a muslin, I still needed to make a few tweaks as I sewed.  Below is a photo of me fitting the lower half of the jacket along side of photo of the finished outfit.  See the difference in the flare of the peplum.  I ripped it all out and reduced the peplum along the sides. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I think once is enough.  But, I do recommend this pattern to others.  You should make a muslin before cutting into your fashion fabric.

Conclusion: I'm pleased with how this suit turned out.  I'll probably wear it the first chance I get when cooler weather returns.  This pattern is not difficult to sew. It's time consuming and you should take your time and enjoy the process.

Utility Jumpsuit - McCall's M7908

I'm so happy to be able to sport my new jumpsuit. It turned out pretty good.  I'm going to make another one. Lol

Utility jumpsuits are somewhat on trend now.  I just like the way it looks.  

Nordstrom $149

Way back in the 70's when I first started making my own clothes, I made a similar jumpsuit out of a knit fabric my late grandmother gave me.  I wish I had a photo of it.   

Anyway, here is my review.

Pattern Description:  Jumpsuits have fitted bodice with princess seams, exposed front zipper, and semi-fitted straight leg pants with neckline, sleeve, pocket and length variations. A, B, C, D neck and B armhole finished with purchased bias tape.  Note: Separate pattern pieces are included for cup size A/B, C, D.

Pattern Sizing:  6 - 22.  I used size 16, cup D, view C with modification.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, my jumpsuits looks like the photo envelope

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were typical; nothing confusing in them.  But I had a little challenge with getting the base of the exposed zipper presentable. I tested an alternative construction method that I saw on social media; it worked only slightly better than what's in the instruction guide sheet. 

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  

Likes -

• The style of the jumpsuit. 
• The stretch denim fabric from Textile Warehouse.
• That the pattern include different pattern pieces for A/B, C and D cup sizes.  It reduced the amount of pattern adjustments for me.
• The princess seams.  Easier to fit.

Dislikes -

• The neckline is too "open" for me.  It stands away from my neck.  Next time I will bring it a little closer.
• The exposed zipper instructions.  It could just be me. Lol

Fabric Used:  I used a stretch woven denim that I purchased from the Discount Textile Warehouse.  It is so forgiving and comfortable to wear.  I prewashed and dried it before cutting into it.  The fabric was softer and easier to work with.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I tweaked the  D cup pattern, swayback adjustment and lengthen the pants leg,  I don't like cropped pants.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, and yes.  I like it well enough to make it again.  And, I do recommend it to other sewists. 

Conclusion:   I'm happy I finally made my jumpsuit.  My sewing buddy, Marcy, was the motivation for getting this made this spring.

Happy Sewing!

C