Notes on a Pattern - McCall 7812

 

Today is the coolest day of the year, -11 degrees but it feels like -48 degrees.  Yikes!!!

Anyway, enough on the weather forecast.  It's time for another installment of Notes on a Pattern.  This time I'm reviewing McCall's 7812.  The reason why I chose to do a "Notes" blog is because this pattern definitely requires some changes in order to get a good fit for women with a similar body shape as mine.  And I thought it would be worthwhile to talk a little bit about the FBA and the neckline.  I made a FBA and rotated the bust dart into the center ruching.  I simply made the four basic slashes to the pattern and instead of creating a bust dart, I closed that slash and rotated it to the center.  The process is very similar to my tutorial from 2014.  Instead of rotating to the shoulder pleats, rotate to the center ruching distributing the access in the bust area.  See image below.

This pattern has the potential to be a sloper for other similar style tops and dresses. I purchased it for view A.  The top on the pattern envelope appears to have nice shaping along the sides and the ruching is great style element that can hide a few of my flaws. ;-)

My first two tops do look like the drawing.  The first challenge was to get it to fit nicely in the bust area without making the ruching look like draping. For starters I made the FBA half of what I'd normally do for a woven top.  I also made the swayback and prominent shoulder blade adjustments.  I used size M but cutting it slightly large along the some of the seams.

After making the first red top, I identified another issue.  The neckline was too low and too wide.  So before cutting my second top, I raised the neckline about 3/4 inches on the front, back and sleeve.  The second top fits much better.

Other changes that I made:   instead of purchasing ribbon for the drawstring, I made my own cutting the fabric lengthwise about four feet long and 1" wide.  I used the satin foot left toe as a guide for how wide I wanted the string to be.  Then I used a loop turner to turn the draw right side out.  I used stitch witchery to fuse the hems of the neckline and the lower edge of the top in place.  Then sewed them.  Great stuff.  It makes it so much easier to sew a great hem on knit fabrics.

Both fabrics used are from FabricMart Fabrics.  The red is a crepe knit with about 40% 4-way stretch.  This knit has a very nice weight and was easy to sew.  The green/brown knit is lighter and slightly transparent with less stretch in both directions.  The stretch of the fabric will definitely affect the fit of the top and how the ruching forms around the body.  Both of my choices were fine.

I'm very pleased with the results of the second top.  But I plan to make another view A with sleeves of view B.  I could even go for view C.

For my size and changes the time was well spent on making it fit.  I recommend it to other sewists with modifications.  It may be a good idea to make a muslin as my red top is my wearable muslin.

Okay, that's all for now.

Happy Sewing!

C

Minerva ITY Silky Knit - McCall M7812 and Simplicity S9147 Third Time Is A Charm

This is a showing of a new top and pair of pants using patterns I've used before.  Once I work out fit issues of a good wardrobe staple pattern, it's so easy to make it again and again.  Such is the case with both M7812 and S9147.

It's been a few years since I used McCall 7812.  Here is the link to my review.  Simplicity 9147 is a new release, and I've made a modified version of the pants three times in less than four months.  Link to initial review is here.  Both patterns are now a TNT (tried and true) for me.  

For my latest version of the top, I used a lovely ITY silky knit from Minerva Fabrics.  I love the bold print and the vibrant colors.  Perfect for my little blue and red wardrobe.  My slacks are made using a beautiful stretch woven that I got from Mood Fabrics several years ago.  It was originally slated for a dress, but I changed my mind. Lol.  I have enough left  for a vest, which I'll make later.  Both fabrics were pre-washed and dried before I cut into them.  

So here is to TNT's.  Which TNT's do you most often grab?  Please share. ;-)

Happy Sewing!  More to come.

C

 

First Quarter 2019 - In Review

Late to publication:  I wrote this April 24, 2019.  Posted April 29, 2019  Warning Long Post

We are 24 days into the second quarter of the year.  It's spring and I like many others in the mid-west are relieved that the sun is shining more, the temperatures are warmer, and the days are longer.  All of these signs of spring motivate me to be more productive.  One of the things that I've wanted to start to do is post a quarterly review of my sewing projects.  This is a practice that I used to do when I was working at the university.  It kept me on task with my goals for the year.  It also help me highlight milestones accomplished rather than waiting until the end of the year to review the status of set goals.  In my sewing, this will help me catalog my sewing projects and help me focus on accomplishing more of my annual goals.  So, I'll note garment types, fabric used, and construction techniques practiced in one simple quarterly post.

Sometimes, for whatever reason, some projects never get posted to the blog.  They somehow get lost in the shuffle of my day-to-day routine of thinking about sewing rather than be able to do something sewing related.  So these quarterly posts will if nothing more give mention to ALL makes good, bad, and given away.

So it begins:

January - Wardrobe Building Month:  I wanted to beef up my staples, and I wanted to make comfortable easy to wear knit garments.  My focus was on quick and easy pieces that sewed up really fast, but also had some cute style elements.

• Simplicity 8643 - Pleated Front t-shirt.  It's a great alternative to a basic t-shirt.  Luckily I was able to make it without doing a FBA.  Fabric Marcy Tilton  2 yards

• Christine Jonson Funnel Neck Top Travel Trio 2 - Simple, cute, and easy. Fabricmart Fabrics 1.5 yards

• McCall 7812 Drawstring front top - I wanted a new style.  This pattern fit the bill.  First, I made a "red wearable muslin" that I decided to gift someone.  The second one is perfect. Fabricmart Fabrics 1.5 yards for each.

• Christine Jonson Center Seam Pullon Pants - I love these pants.  I made a black and a chartreuse pair.  Two pair made using a total of 4 yards from Mood Fabrics

     Not Posted -

• McCall 7688 - Drawstring knit dress.  I didn't like it on me.  So I'm gifting it to my sister.  Will post later.  Mood Fabrics, 2 yards
• PaperCut Oh-la-la Leggings.  Sorry, I didn't post these yet.  Later with a new top. Mood Fabrics, 2 yards

February - Another month of easy, quick garments.  I needed some new t-shirt dresses to replace the worn ones.  These dresses took less than three hours to sew.  I also made a quilted jacket.  Something a little different from my usual sewing garments for myself.  This jacket was a UFO, cut and ready to sew over a year ago.  I added a lining for the front, back and sleeves.  February I ended with only three garments made, but each is unique in it's own right.  Be it color, style or fabric texture.

• Christine Jonson Funnel Neck Top and M7386 skirt - dress hack - This was a simple blending of two easy patterns that produced a cute little black flirty dress.    Fabric Mood Fabrics 3 yards

• Vogue 1314, my TNT t-shirt dress.  This one I changed up a bit.  Using the pattern lining front and back, I lengthen the dress, added slits to the sides, and finished the look with a thin belt. 2 yards

• M7254 - Cardigan/Jacket.  This one had been waiting in a box for about two years.  Already cut and ready.  What was I waiting for.  It turned out to be a winner.  Fabric from Mood and Vogue Fabrics about 3 yards

March - For the final month of the quarter, I decided to make two coats.  This coat pattern had been on my to make list for awhile.  The sewing techniques that I'm hoping to major are: welt pockets and attaching the lining to the coat to emulate the techniques seen in ready to wear coat.

• Burda 6462 - Long belted boyfriend coat.  Special sewing techniques bound buttonholes and fully lined and attached at the hem of the coat.

• Burda 6462 - Short fur collared boyfriend coat.  This is my favorite of the two.