Notes on a Pattern - New Look NL6013 Jacket

New Look 6013

It's time for another "Notes on a Pattern".  I spent last Saturday afternoon/evening working on my first jacket of 2020.  My initial pattern adjustments were made late 2019, and I cut the jacket out the first week of January 2020.  So on Saturday everything was ready to sew.

I became interested in making this jacket last summer when I saw a few projects posted on Instagram.  I've wanted a shawl collar, princess seam jacket for a while.  Jackets are something that I'm lacking in my wardrobe.  This one is a good start to filling the gap.

So, let me start with some basic information about the style of the jacket and pattern information.  This jacket is part of a New Look wardrobe pattern (NL6013).  It is to make an unlined with princess seams, pleated sleeve caps, and a shawl collar.  The closure is one loop at the base of the collar.  It is available in sizes 4 to 16.  I used size 16 with modifications.



The instructions are typical, easy to follow, and no points of confusion that I could see.  My jacket does look like the drawing. But I made a lot of changes to satisfy my own personal taste for construction and sewing techniques.

First, allow me to start with the initial adjustments.  I include this information a lot.  The reason is some of you may need to make similar adjustments and my changes may be helpful to you.    These pattern adjustments are typically the initial adjustments.  Then as I sew, I continue to fit as needed. BTW - I didn't make a muslin. 

So, I begin with some tissue pattern fitting it assess how much more or less circumstance space I'll need.  And to see if the jacket is the right length for me.  Below are two photos with my basic adjustments:

 

• FBA 
• Tucks on the front jacket and the collar at the fullest of the bust.  It helps eliminate gapping along the collar opening.
• Swayback adjustment.  Both back patterns are adjusted.  
• Slight Prominent shoulder blade adjustment. Not shown in the pattern adjustment here.  Sorry.
• Lengthen the entire jacket by 2".  It just needed to be a little longer for me.
• Not shown.  I lengthen the sleeves by 1.5"

Once I put the body of the jacket together, I continued to fit.  My biggest issue was at the upper and fullest of the bust area.  There was way too much fabric throughout that area.  I tried several times to eliminate the extra with little success.  It wasn't until I ripped out the seam from the upper bust to just below the bust area was I able to get a good fit.  Wish I had done that in the first place.  I literally pinned out the excess with the jacket on one side at a time. Then, I basted the seam to check if the fit was right.  BINGO!  It's a fit!  The other area of  change was the lower back and lower side seam areas.  These changes didn't take much time to adjustment as I often make these changes after the swayback adjustment.

Now onto my other preferred changes for jacket sewing. 

•  First, lining this style of jacket is a preference.  Secondly, my fabrics dictated the need for a lining.  It's loosely woven and soft.  The lining adds support and stability.  With the lining, the jacket guides on.  Plus, quite a bit of time and effort goes into a well made garment; it's good to make it last.

• Interfacing the hemlines (not all are shown here), upper back area, and adding sleeve heads for support and stability.

• Welt pockets.  I change them from mock to real welt pockets.

My fabric is a medium weight tweed wool blend.  That was great to work with.  It's from Mood.  In the online descriptive information, it indicates that it is pre-shrunk.  But I did stream it using the iron on highest steam setting as an added precaution.

I was well pleased once I completed all of the fit adjustments and construction changes. My after thoughts were: 

• I should have made a muslin.  I spent a lot of time tweaking the fit.
• Hurry, transfer the changes to the tissue pattern, but leave some room for varied fabric weaves and textures.  Because a tightly woven fabric may require a little more width across the bust and upper back. 
• My pockets look nice, but the welt could have been an inch longer.

This is the end of this installment of "Notes on a Pattern".  I hope to show you my finished jacket soon.  It needs a hem and a button sewn on.  So, I hope this posts has some helpful information or at least encourage someone to sew a jacket.  It's a great feeling of accomplishment when you are able to complete a wearable, likeable jacket.  I recommend this jacket pattern.  It's cute. ;-)

Happy Sewing!
C