Notes on a Pattern - Burda 6879 and Vogue 1436

Last week I finished my wearable muslin for Burda pants 6879 (will review soon).  I bought this pattern because of the pockets, the overlay on the front pant and back yoke design.

The Pockets -

The pockets are much like the pockets you see on jeans, the opening is below the waistband instead of at the side upper hip.  In recent years, I've had issues with pockets that open at the hip.  The small "pot in my belly" causes the pocket to stand out.  I hate that look.

But against my better judgement, last year I made another pair of side pocket pants.  And the unattractive pocket opening stood out like a sore thumb.  Quickly, I added a buttonhole and button to close the gaping pockets.  Their must be a better way to resolve the gaping side pocket.

So Burda 6879 is one quick fix solution.  I came up with the "idea" of transferring this pocket design to other pants that I like.  My first attempt is with Vogue 1436.  I'm making these pants next week.

Overlay on the Front Pant -

The overlay is just another design element to jazz up a pair of pants.  It gives you the option to use lace or stretchable leather/suede in a contrast fabric.  Great design option.

Back Yoke -

There two pattern pieces for the back yoke.  The finished yoke has three sections: two sides and a center piece.  It's another great design option as well as an opportunity to make no hassle adjustments.  With most jean or back yoke patterns the back of the pant stand away from my waist.  The side and center york are join wear you would make a dart.  So it's easy to make deeper seam allowances without distorting the look of the yoke.  This is another option I will use for back yoke pants.

That's all for now.

Happy Sewing!
Cennetta

Black and White

I love the combination of black and white. This year alone I've already made two dresses. More to come later this year. In the meantime, here is some inspiration from the runway.

 Enjoy! Cennetta

Boldly Waiting for Spring in Red and White Cotton Print

Oh My, I would love for spring to come and stay in Chi-town for at least a week.  But I guess Chicago weather is what it normally is.  We have two seasons:  summer and winter.  The week before Mother's Day we had temperatures in the 80's.  But on Mother's Day is was cold and damp.

I was ready to show off my big hat and new dress when all hopes were dashed by the cumulative clouds and the strong trade winds of my fair city. But I braved the chill to take a few photos on Monday and Thursday. 

This cotton twill has a touch of lycra for easy wearing.  It's great for jackets and skirts too.

This was the second time that I used this pattern.  I made view A several years ago.  It's been so long ago, I had to up the size a bit.  For this version (view B),  I hand picked the zipper (no beads this time). 

I really like this pattern and will probably use it again for the fulls skirt version.  It does have options and it is very easy to make.

So I'll have to wait for a bright sunny day to wear my new bold  print frock.  Summer will be here soon.  Wink, wink.

Happy Sewing!

Cennetta

Paulette Bell of the Ball in Butterick 5557

Good evening all,

It's good to finally blog.  The Haute Couture Club of Chicago fashion show was May 3rd.  I'm happy to say it was a great show.  The show was at a different venue this year:  Fountain Blue Banquet facility in Rosemont, Illinois.  In January we had to form a fashion show committee to replace the removed show chair.  So I will stop at that; the story is too long.  Anyway, today I'd like to review Paulette's pastoral annual dinner dress.  I used Butterick 5557 .

Here is my review:


Pattern Description:
MISSES' TOP AND SKIRT: Fitted, lined tops A, B have neckband, below elbow kimono sleeves and back zipper. A: sleeve and lower bands, self-fabric bow. Semi-fitted, straight, lined skirts A, B, mid-calf, have waistband and side zipper.

Pattern Sizing:
6-20 I used size 18 with lots of modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? For the most part.  The pattern was true to the line drawing and pictures on the envelope.

Were the instructions easy to follow?   There is nothing difficult or confusing about the the construction techniques or the instructions.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? This was a pattern selected by Paulette.  She loves vintage and usually picks a vintage style for the pastoral annual dinner.  Paulette likes the style lines of the top, but wanted to add a inch or two to the length of it.  The skirt of most vintage patterns that I have worked with tend to be on slightly on the "A" shape.  Paulette preferred a tapered skirt. 

I thought the style was okay too.  But I probably would not select it for myself.

Fabric Used: Paulette and I made our usual trip to Fishman's Fabric near downtown Chicago.  The fabric is a red stretch shantung blend; the lining is ambiance.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  There were a lot of changes with this one.  For starters I made two muslins trying to get the fit right and to incorporate any style changes.  Even after the two muslins there were more changes after the second garment fitting.

Alterations:   This is a fitted two pieces dress.  I should have started with size 18 upper body and size 20 for the rest.
  - Decreased the back neckline at the center by 1".  It was too big at the center back neckline.  My fix was not perfect.  After the change, I noticed a few drag lines.
  - Added 2" to 4" at waist and high hip on the top.
  - Added 2" to 4" through the waist and hip areas.
  - Tapered the skirt from the below the hip to the hem.
  - Added side slit to skirt.
  - I used the longer version top and added a 2" lower band.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I probably would not sew it again as it was a client project.  I do recommend it to others.  This pattern has nice style lines.  But you should make a muslin before cutting into your fashion fabric.


Conclusion:  With a little extra work, I was able to make a beautiful two piece dress for Ms. Paulette.

Parting Shots:  This is the vintage dress made for last year's annual dinner.  Paulette was so kind to model it at the Haute Couture Club of Chicago annual fashion show on May 3rd.  She was a hit on and off the runway.  It was so funny when she said to me, "People know me."  I chuckled and replied, "Some of the members read my blog." 

The VaVaVoom Affect of Rhonda's Perfect Travel Dress

This is the second time around for Rhonda's Perfect Travel Dress. The sewing process was the same. I used the same measurements as the first version. The difference was the slink of the knit fabric and the size of my DD. I didn't take it into consideration that I may need to add a few inches. So this version has that VaVaVoom Affect!

Perfect Travel Dress is now the perfect club dress! This is another outfit that will be showcased at the Haute Couture Club Fashion Show this spring! It's a little on the sexy side; but I don't think it will offend anyone. So here's to the VaVaVoom in Rhonda's Perfect Travel Dress. Oh yeah, it does travel well with little to no wrinkles.

Happy Sewing!
C

Sequins, Sequins!

 
I used to think sequin was gaudy, and certainly not something to wear during day for casual wear.  Sure I have made a little black sequin/velvet skirt a few years ago for my sister.  Back then, that was the extent of my vision for using sequins.

But now that I've spent sometime on Pinterest, I grown to love sequin. There are so many different types and so many ways to add interest to a garment using them.  I hope to make a few garments that have a touch of sequins. 

Here are a few of the styles that I admired and posted on my two of my Pinterest boards.

Happy Sewing!
C

Navy Reptile Print Brocade - Simplicity 1803

Spring has sprung in Chi-town! I'm so glad the sun is shining and the flowers are starting to bloom.

I cannot believe an entire month has past since I last blogged. I'm happy to be back.

For spring, you would think that I would sew brighter colors to welcome the new season. But I couldn't resist this beautiful navy reptile print brocade. This fabric is lightweight and falls gracefully around the body. It is perfect for the dress I planned to make for my daughter. I purchased the fabric last fall; it's no longer available but Mood has a nice selection of brocades to choose from.

My daughter will attend a friend's wedding in Poland this summer. She asked for a new dress or two to take with her. This is the first dress made for that trip. It's been a while since a made what she calls a "princess" dress for her. So I thought is a good time to make a special dress. She will also model it in the upcoming Haute Couture Club of Chicago fashion show.

I chose Simplicity 1803. It is described as: Misses'  Miss Petite Dresses Project Runway Collection with bodice variations and tie belt. It comes in sizes 4 to 20. I used size 10 with quite a few modifications.

The bodice and skirt combination was the perfect foundation to add interest using a texture fabric, beads and tulle. The beads add a little sparkle to the bodice. They were randomly sewn to the lower shoulder area and the center front just above the bust area. I shorten the skirt by several inches and added lining and tulle to the skirt of the dress.  Aside from these changes the dress did look like the drawing on the envelope. I also made the usual fit adjustments: swayback and small FBA (instead of the usual pigeon chest adjustment).

The pattern instructions were typical, but nothing difficult or confusing about them. The dress came together very quickly with no problems. Labor came with adding the beads and the tulle underskirt.  My favorite figure about the pattern was this bodice view.   The added tulle gives the skirt an updated look.  I have no dislike about this project.

I can't say that I will use the pattern again. Because I have so many in my collection to try. This is a good pattern for intermediate beginners. I recommend it. As for the navy reptile brocade, I'm glad I have another 2.5 yards for a dress for me!  So give a fancy brocade a try.  You won't be disappointed.

Parting Shot: My DD is a happy lady! That's all for now.