Festive Summer Vacay Dress - Simplicity S9598

Pattern Description:  Slim V-neck pullover knit dresses in two lengths have long or short sleeves with cutout back and twist detail.  One view feature contrast layout.

Pattern Sizing:  The pattern is available in two size groupings (6-14) and (16-24).  I used between size 16 and 18.  This is very close fitting and I want just a little ease in the dress.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, it did.  I really like the way the dress turned out.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were typical and easy to follow.  There was nothing confusing in them.  Of course, I changed a few things.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the V-neck, the twist/cutout, and the option to color block the dress.  There was only one dislike; the way the back elastic facing is supposed to be finished.  It did not look good.

Fabric Used:  I used an ITY knit that I purchased from Fabric Mart Fabrics a while ago.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  There is always something that needs to be adjusted or changed.  Here is my little list:

• Small FBA made that produced a bust dart.  You can barely see it in this print.
• Made a prominent shoulder blade adjustment.  I didn't want the twist to pull too much.
• Selected a length between the two indicated on the pattern.
• 3/4 Sleeve instead of the long sleeve
• Sewed a channel for the elastic to be threaded through.  It looks better than just having the elastic between the skirt and facing.
• Used a twin needle to hem the sleeves and the skirt.
• The neckband was gapping a bit.  I had to make a deeper center front seam to make it fit better.  See pattern pieces showing the blue marking to indicate the new stitching line.  Note:  You must be precise in your stitching making sure both neckbands are stitched the same.  

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Of course, I will sew it again.  I don't know when though.  There are so many other dress patterns in my to make pile for 2022.  We will see how it goes. 

Conclusion:  I think this is a great little pattern to make a fun, festive summer dress.  It a good one for all level sewists. 

 

P.S.  I'll post pictures of me wearing soon.  No one available for a photo shoot today. Wink, wink.

Happy Sewing!

C

Minerva ITY Silky Knit - McCall M7812 and Simplicity S9147 Third Time Is A Charm

This is a showing of a new top and pair of pants using patterns I've used before.  Once I work out fit issues of a good wardrobe staple pattern, it's so easy to make it again and again.  Such is the case with both M7812 and S9147.

It's been a few years since I used McCall 7812.  Here is the link to my review.  Simplicity 9147 is a new release, and I've made a modified version of the pants three times in less than four months.  Link to initial review is here.  Both patterns are now a TNT (tried and true) for me.  

For my latest version of the top, I used a lovely ITY silky knit from Minerva Fabrics.  I love the bold print and the vibrant colors.  Perfect for my little blue and red wardrobe.  My slacks are made using a beautiful stretch woven that I got from Mood Fabrics several years ago.  It was originally slated for a dress, but I changed my mind. Lol.  I have enough left  for a vest, which I'll make later.  Both fabrics were pre-washed and dried before I cut into them.  

So here is to TNT's.  Which TNT's do you most often grab?  Please share. ;-)

Happy Sewing!  More to come.

C

 

Fall Dress - Butterick B6621

Finally, I'm writing my pattern review for B6621.  It's been one solid month since I made this dress.
Time waits for no one.  It seems like the summer started yesterday.  But now September is two away.  One good thing is I now have two fall like or transitional dresses in my closet.

For this second dress, I was lucky enough to get a few good pictures on me wearing it. 

Anyway, dresses are my favorite to make.  This one is very popular in the sewing community.  Butterick describes the dresses as:  Close-fitting knit dress has front, neckline and sleeve variations and double-stitched hems.  B, C ties are single thickness, wrong side of fabric may show.  I'd like to add:  view A, the dress I made, also has a twist front just above the waist and the back for all views has a center back seam.  (Lately, the Big-4 pattern companies are designing the back of tops and dresses to have a center back seam.)  All dresses are A-line.

 

The size range is 6-22, which is great.  I used size 14-16 with modifications.

My dress does look like the drawing on the envelope with the exception of the sleeve length.  I had enough fabric for the long sleeve so why waste the fabric.

The instructions were typical.  Nothing difficult about them though.

This dress was simple to make and easy to wear.   Those were the first things that draw me to the pattern.  Next, I thought the twist front would save me on the FBA.  And it did.  I actually, cut the neck and shoulders at size 14, gradually cutting up to 16 along the front armhole through the hem.  Pretty much cutting the back the same way.  I did make my usual sway back adjustment and added a little belt across the back to give the dress some definition along the my waist.  Lastly, I lengthen the sleeves 1.5 inches.The adjustment that I forgot to do was lengthen the dress a few inches.

This lovely poke-a dot ITY knit came from Fabric Mart Fabrics.  I purchased it during my Sew Camp retreat. It was the end of the bulk measuring about 2 yards, 58" wide.

I might make it again.  Between the two twist front dresses that I've made, my favorite is the McCall's (M7429) red and black dress that I made a few years ago.  But I do recommend this pattern (B6621)   to others.  It's a quick sewing project that yields great results.  I like my new dress.  It suits me.

Parting Shots:  I wanted to take this opportunity to showcase one of my sewing students.  Bonnie B. has been taking lessons from me about a year and a half.  When she first came, all she wanted to learn was how to make darts.  Well, since that first dart making sessions the list of sewing technique achievements is about a page long.  I'm happy that she is sewing a large variety of projects.  She wearing McCall M7356.

My Red and Black Circle Dress - McCall 7429

My sewing mojo is in full affect.  For weeks I've been happily sewing up a storm, cranking out garments so fast there isn't much time to photograph and post them.  Fortunately today, I was able to take pictures of three of my latest projects. 

This first dress was finished two days ago.  And let me tell you it was easy right up to making that little twist thing at the front waist.  Then, I was confused by how to make the twist.  I read the instructions three times.  But I did not get it until I just look at the drawings for steps 9, 10, and 11.  Pictures are definitely worth a thousand words.

Before I get ahead of myself, let me go back a few steps to provide some basic information about the pattern. 

McCall 7429 is described as:  Misses dresses:  close fitting, pullover dress has front twist detail at waist, sleeve and neckline variations.  It's comes in sizes 6 to 22.    This dress should be made with two-way stretch knits with about 40% stretch.

My dress is about the length of view B with sleeves and collar of view D.  But based on the diagram and the photo, my dress does look like the dressed on the envelope.

The instructions; typical and easy to follow, until the twist, as I mentioned before.  I recommend taking your time, lay the dress on a flat surface and follow the illustrations.

Likes:

• The twist at the waist
• The front drape
• The length options
• The center back seam makes it easy to fit for a sway back

Dislike:

• The back as that coffin effect, with only a seam down the center back.   I added a little belt to make it a little more interesting from the back view.  

I selected this pretty geometric red and black ITY knit print from Fabric Mart.  Love, love it.  I played Tetis with the pattern pieces trying to find the best way to utilizes the circle print.  The front of the dress is partially cut on the bias with the lower portion cut along the salvage.  Some areas were not straight on so there are a few areas were the pattern of the print is not perfectly matched.  But that's all right.  I think the dress turned out nicely.  I'm happy with the results.

No major fit adjustments.  I really took a chance on this fitting me.  I cut a size 16 making only a sway back adjustment.  

I will make this again, view D for fall/winter.  This is a figure flattering little frock and can be made up in about four hours.  At least for me that much time. 

If it is your style, try it.

Happy Sewing!
C

PS -  This is my ten year anniversary as a sewing blogger.  So Happy anniversary and I hope you continue to enjoy my blog.  Thank you!

Draped in Vogue 1442 - A New Summer Dress Classic

Vogue 1442

I love this dress.  Sandra Betzina is so right!  This is a terrific summer dress.  It's rated as easy, but I had to do some tweaking before I was satisfied with the shape of the side and the drape.  There is only four pieces with the main body large enough to wrap around my entire body.  It's essentially a rectangle with curves.  The other three pieces are the shoulder strap, the neck and armhole facings.


I'm continuing my little stripe challenge.  This fabric came from Fabric Mart.  It is an ITY jersey with four way stretch and a smooth hand.  Love it.

The pattern description is misses' tunic and dress pullover tunic or dress has shoulder strap and underarm stitching forming drape, mock bands, front and back cut in one, no right side seam, and stitched hem.  It comes in "Sandra Betzina" sizing A through J.  I used size E through the bust, size C at the waist, and size D at the hip to the hem.  My selection of "sizes" created a curve along the side giving the dress some shape.

The instructions were easy to follow.  It is important that you follow the construction and final sewing of the strap as you may need to make some adjustments.  I needed to.  I did find the draping of the front right side interesting as you attach the extended strap to the inside of the dress to create the front drape.


My dress does look like the picture on the envelope, with the exception of the stripes going in a different directions.  I thought this was a more flattering look for me.


I like the drape and the ease of wear.  This is a simple, carefree look.  Perfect for summer and vacation.  The dress has a sort of Grecian style look to it, which I also like. 

I did make a few other minor changes:

• 2" to hem
• Adjusted the strap at the back by 1"
• Added clear elastic to the neckline.  I was afraid the neckline would loose it's shape over time and wear.  After I sew the facing to the top of the dress, I then sewed the elastic from the side seam (front) to the beginning of the drape section.   I used a zig-zag stitch placing the elastic right next to the stitched seam on the seam allowance side.  And repeated the same for the back.  This helps the dress remain snug along the neckline, side and back.

I think I may make view A, tunic.  And I do recommend it.  Not too many people made this one.  It is worth a try.

Other thought:

I did notice that there is some blouseness at the back. And I thought of putting a couple of vertical darts in the back.  Then I just decided to leave it as is.  I can always decide to do that later. ;-)

Happy Sewing!

C