Notes On A Pattern - Vogue V1786

I haven't done a Notes on a Pattern in awhile.  I thought it would be good to share my struggle with this project.  Simply because this is a new pattern and I got carried away when I saw 46 inches as the finished width in the bust area for size medium.  I shouldn't have paid it any attention.  It is deceiving.

If you measure the circumference of the pattern pieces at the bust area, yes it is 46 inches.  But you need to look a little closer.  Once you form the buttonhole placket all of those "extra" inches disappear.  So the actual finished circumference at the full bust is far from 46 inches.  

This is what you actually have to work with minus side seam allowances

And this is where my troubles begin. Word to the wise.  Never go on automatic pilot.

I tried on my first version of the shirt: front, back, and yoke with finished button holes and all.  Guess what?  It did not fit. Ugh..,

Luckily, I had about a yard or so of the fabric left.  So I recut the front (dartless FBA) and the back yoke with a few more little tweaks.  Sewed it together again.  It was a good fit. Next, I checked the collar and collar stand.  They also needed to be recut (size large). After finishing the collar, I needed to tackle the upper sleeve because of the adjustments made to the front and tweaks to the back yoke.  My suspicions were right.  I needed the upper sleeve to be a little larger.  Not so much in the cap but the lower armsyce.  No more fabric.  So I made a little insert (2") cut on the bias.  It worked.  Finally, for the lower sleeve and cuff, no change.  I just eased the excess in.

All of this extra tweaking and fitting because of one little finished measurement.  My bad for not analyzing the design of the pattern a little further.  So, lesson learned again. Lol. This one I should have made a muslin.  Oops I did. Lol

I'm so glad I had extra fabric and I was able to work out the fit issues without trashing the entire project.  

So that's my Notes on a Pattern.  The rest of the review is coming soon.

Happy Sewing!

C

 

White After Labor Day

When I was growing up, wearing white after Labor day was one of the biggest fashion faux pas.  These days people are wearing whatever anytime of year.    Fashion is anything at anytime of year!  Believe it or not, I'm still a little jaded when it comes to certain fashion faux pas.

Today's post is about two white fabrics that I purchased this summer from Mood Fabrics:  Helmut Lang Optic White Tissue Weight Cotton Poplin  and Soft White Stretch Blended Cotton Jacquard.  Both textile were great to work with.  There is something special about working with natural fibers.  Cottons are easy to sew, press and super comfortable to wear.

My shirt is part of a "Shirt Project" that I completed this summer for a Haute Couture Club presentation. I used Simplicity 8416 to make, and the contrasting fabric was gifted to me by one of our generous club members, Andrea Birken.   I made no fit adjustments for this shirt.  But I wanted to add a little color to it.  Threads magazine, published an article on customizing your shirt.  This is where I got the idea to add the contracting fabric details.   Check out the details.

The pants are Burda 6879.  This is my third pair of pants made with it.  My reviews are here.  All of them have been made with Mood Fabrics.   For this pair, I made the pants wider for a more relaxed fit.  

So what are your feeling about wearing white?  

Happy Sewing!

C

Valentino Inspired Dress - Fancy Mood Floral Roses Jacquard and Simplicity 1011

Plain and simple:  there is nothing like a beautiful piece of fabric.  Just the mere fact that it is gorgeous makes you imagine how proud you feel to wear something made of it. This is the case with Mood's Black Malaga Floral Roses Jacquard and Eggplant Polyester Lining.  The pairing of these two fabrics was a winning combination for my latest dress.   This jacquard is rich and luxurious, the pattern is intricately woven with a glossy under tone.  It has a smooth hand, unlike most brocades, but just as radiant.  The lining is perfect for it.  It is very smooth and has similar movement as the jacquard.

My inspiration for this dress comes from one of my favorite designers, Valentino.  I'm always dreaming about making something spectacular drawing from the simplest details in hopes of translating them into my very own creations.  The vertical lines that are seen throughout Valentino's Fall 2016 collection is were I drew my inspiration for this dress.  I posted a few pictures on my blog.  

Pattern Description:

Simplicity never really spends anytime given good descriptions of the pattern.  So, here's my description:  princess seam "V" neck bodice with individual pattern pieces for B, C, D,and DD cup sizes.  The four panel high-low skirt of the dress has four inverted pleats: two in the front and two in the back.  The dress includes two sleeve options or can be made sleeveless with a belt that is attached to the back with two buttons.  The pattern is available in sizes 10 to 28W.

My dress does look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope with the exception of my "small" design changes.

There were no confusing steps in the instructions.  Like all the amazing fit patterns, Simplicity include instructions on how to fine tune the fit as you sew.

My Likes -

There are a lot of reasons why I like and chose this pattern:

• It included my cup size and I wanted to test it to see if it would fit with minimum fit changes.
• Princess bodice, easier to fit, if the "Amazing Fit" bust size didn't fit.
• low-high skirt.
• "V" neckline
• Lantern style sleeve, five darts, makes for an interest sleeve detail. I only wish it was a little more pronounced.

I have no serious dislikes.  




Fit Changes -

I decided to use Simplicity Amazing Fit S1011 in hopes of limiting the amount of fit adjustments that I normally make.  Surprisingly, that was the case with this pattern.  I used size 14, DD cup, with only a few tweaks.

After making the muslin, I determined that a few small changes would produce a better fit:

• Add 1/4 at the fullness of the bust area to the side front and front.
• Add 1/2 width to the back, creating a neck dart.
• Make a swayback adjustment.
• Add an inch to the length of the bodice.  In hind-sight, I think that was too much.
• Add an inch or two to the length of the skirt so that the hem would fall at my knee.
• Add an inch to the belt, for good measure, didn't need it.

It seems like many changes, but these were mostly small tweaks, unlike the full process of making a FBA that I normally make.  There is one more tweak I should have made, and that is to the length of the shoulder seam.  It's too long.  Next time I'll reduce it by 1/2 inch.

Design and Construction Changes -

•  I lined the entire dress.  The pattern only gives instructions on lining the skirt of the dress. 
• To emphasize the vertical lines, I added a floral trim with a Medallion style motif along the front and back seems of the bodice.  Luckily, I had buttons with a similar design to hold the belt in place.
• Added hem tape to the skirt of the dress.  It looks nicer.
• The instructions (#4) has you to form the pleat by bringing folds to broken lines.  I simply bring the lines together, basting to form the pleats.  It's easier.
• Step 1b, I didn't follow.  I prefer to stay-stitch along the front and back; then slashing the seam allowances to fit the curve of the side front and side back.

I like how my dress turned out.  And I will definitely use the bodice again for another dress and as a sloper.  This is a good basic dress pattern that can be used to create a variety of looks and styles.

It's a little chilly and windy outside.  Resting my coat for a five minute photo shoot.

Happy Sewing!
C