Tuesday, January 20, 2009

The Beyonce Black Velvet Dress - M5753 & S4070 PT II



I want to wear this dress to an annual dinner party (October 2009). But hope to have it finished long before then. I'm using M5753 and S4070 to create the bodice for the dress, and M5753 for the skirt minus the pockets. There shouldn't be any problems with making the belt. I made similar belts in the past.




Right now I see the bodice as my biggest challenge. It has two styles incorporated into one: part follows the neckline of one of the McCall pattern views and the other follows a heart shaped close fitting bodice. I don't know what the back looks like, but I'm guessing it follows the same design as the front.

Yesterday I sketched a picture (sleeves too long and the neckline needs to come up) of the dress and finished cutting the patterns.




Afterwards I pondered how to replicate the styling of the bodice. I laid the Simplicity pattern pieces atop of the McCall's pattern trying to get a visual and get the creative juice flowing. Hoping that a process for putting it all together would come to me. I thought of cutting the McCall's pattern where it would join the bodice pieces of the Simplicity pattern. Then I though how would I line the bodice. ..., Still not there yet.






Any thoughts?

Did I Say Multi-Tasking or Multi-Projects?

My Goodness! I have so many projects on the table right now it's making me dizzy and more conscious about organizing processing more. Like cutting all pattern at once and making pattern alterations and muslin all at once.

- Clients: I'm trying to organize a little better to stay on top of all of the deadlines dates and scheduling fittings. I purchased a journal to log all 2009 client projects. The first four projects are first aider's uniform for a junior member (church), two Afrocentric outfits another client, and a dinner dance dress for my niece. All expect my niece's dress has been cut and ready to sew. I need to make a muslin for the her dress before starting the work on the actual dress.




- For me: Yesterday I worked on the pattern alterations for my two "Copy That Style" dresses. The Bodice of the Beyonce dress is a little challenging. I purchased S4070 to address the "heart" shaping in the bodice. The Peter Sow dress can be copied using S2926 with a few pattern alterations. Still working on another coat and several coordinates and UFO's.

- DD: OMG! Her list is BIG! So..., I said all of that to say..., "I'll be making a variety of posts on all projects until there are done.

Happy Sewing!
C

Monday, January 19, 2009

Two UFO's Done! - Simplicity 3690 for DD



These UFO's are from the Urban College Girl Collection 2007. After I finished DD's coat I started working on dresses for me. Good thing she hasn't expanded in the last year. lol

Pattern Description: Misses' Top, vest in two lengths and pants or shorts. I made views A and D.



Pattern Sizing: 4 - 20. I made size 8 for DD.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes. I added a couple of pockets: one the right back and one left front and of the pants. Other than that it looked like the photo and drawing.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes. I looked over them and added under stitches to the construction of the vest.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

Like: DD and I liked the style. And I like that the coordinates were simple pieces that I could sew up pretty fast.

Dislike: What appeared to be a simple pattern for the vest, turned out to be a little wonky. This was a surprise given my DD is very easy to sew for when it comes to alterations.

I read a few reviews after making it to see if anyone else had issues with the vest. Ann (Gorgeous Things) had some problems with the neckline and bust area; and she recommended that you make a muslin, which I didn't. It's not bad, but I noticed a little gaping at the neckline (back) and a little winkle at the bust line. I needed to do a sway back alteration.


Fabric Used: Wool blend from the Textile Discount Warehouse.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:

Vest: I didn't make any fitting alterations, but I did under stitch the vest around the neckline, front, and bottom were the lining attaches to the vest.

Pants: No fitting alterations. I added a coin pocket and a welt pocket.

Coin pocket was added to the seam on the left front were the yoke is sewn to the waistline of the pant. To create a coin pocket, I cut one lining and one fashion fabric pocket 4X4 square.

The lining is placed on the desired location for the pocket on the right side of the pants. It is attached at the seam allowance starting at the 3/4 inch point. Sewing from the edge, pivot, and then along the upper stitching line ending at 3 1/4 point, pivot and stitch to the top of the seam allowance. On an angle the pant and the lining are slash to the corner of the stitched seam.



Turn the lining to the inside and press.



View from the wrong side.




Place the pocket evenly over the lining. Stitch 1/2 half seam allowance along the two vertical sides and the lower width. Sewn pocket.




Turn to the right side baste the pocket to the upper edge of the pants.Then attach the yoke to the waist of the pant.



Finished coin pocket.




I followed Debbie Cook's method of making double welt pockets.







Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, but I probably won't sew the vest again. DD wants a few more pants made from this pattern. Of course with pockets. Yes, I would recommend it to others. But make sure you make a muslin for the vest before cutting into your fashion fabric.

Conclusion: This is a fairly decent pattern with the expectation of the "wonkiness" in the vest. DD really likes the pants. She says that they fit perfectly.

Sunday, January 18, 2009

The Peter Sow Dress - Part II

Yesterday, I made a trip to JoAnn's Fabric to meet two clients (Prom dress and graduation dress). We are at the initial stage of trying to find patterns and fabric. One purchased everything needed while the other client looked at patterns and fabric still trying to decide on style and color.

Of course, I took advantage of the pattern sale (Simplicity 99 cents). I found a better pattern for the Peter Sow dress. (Linda I bet this is the same one your were regarding to in your comment. Thanks!)



I'm trying to shop my fabric stash as much as possible. So I search through the silk cuts and found this as a option for copying the inspiration dress. It's not the same color, but follows the theme of audacious print. This is not the final selection, but an option. I would love to find something closer to the Peter Sow dress print.





In the meantime, I sewing UFO's. Two finished for DD on Friday evening. Review will be posted probably tomorrow.






Additionally, client sewing is coming due. So I'm working on several projects at once and will post as I go.


Stay Tuned!

Friday, January 16, 2009

Style Watching - Classy meets Sassy


I'm always styling watching, trying to keep up with the latest trends and searching for designs that suits my taste and fits my lifestyle. I've found my second inspiration outfit in Marie Claire 101 Ideas (Nov '08), featuring a Peter Som combo of tweed with audacious print dress and strappy heels.

Gotta Copy it! Here's the Peter Som dress without the coat. It goes for a cool $1,295. I could probably make it for under 50 bucks.



The Old Navy "steal" option goes for $34.50. Now that's more like it.



Strappy shoes: $57.75 at Macys.com



I can use McCall 5818 to copy the dress and New Look 6736 for the tweed coat (A little different).

Inspiration outfit #2 to copy in '09. The list grows on...,

Happy Style Watching!
C

Monday, January 12, 2009

Jacket No. 2 - McCall 4928 View B


This is the second jacket completed over the weekend. A few PR members have had great success with this pattern. It has classic lines and can be used again, again. Hmmm.., Probably a TNT pattern. ;-)

Pattern Description: MISSES’/MISS PETITE JACKETS: Semi-fitted, lined, below hip jacket with shoulder pads has sleeve, pocket and flap variations; jacket A has top-stitched front and flaps, above elbow sleeve length; jacket B has three-quarter length sleeves, flaps, contrast flowers; jacket C has pockets, long sleeves with slit; jacket D has top-stitched seams and pockets, purchased belt; jacket E has pockets, sleeves with slit, contrast flowers, contrast and self fabric fringes.

I made view B w/ sleeves of view C. I didn't make the flower.

Pattern Sizing: 4 to 20. I used size 14 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? They looked pretty standard for making a lined jacket with sleeve and pocket variations. I didn't spend much time reading them. I followed my usual method of constructing the collar and attaching the lining.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Initially what caught my attention was view E, the fringe on the collar and pocket. But when I paired it with the navy wool fabric from my stash, I favored the classic lines of this jacket. There is nothing to dislike.

Fabric Used: Navy Wool - I think its felt wool suiting, purchased at Vogue Fabrics a while ago.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:I made a few pattern alterations:

FBA - I'll let the picture do most of the talking.


I tried a slightly different approach. Using the method, the width of the front side (2) pattern was increased from the bust area to the hemline. I ended up sewing a deeper seam allowance to bring the hemline circumstance back to it's original measurement. I really didn't like sewing a deeper seam allowance for the Front (1) for fear of changing the shape of the jacket. But after I put the front and back together, it still looked like the pattern drawing.



Sway back and Broad Shoulder Adjustment. I did not add tissue to show the broad shoulder adjustment; I just adding about 1/2 inch to the seam allowance and decreased as I cut along the armhole.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes. I'm thinking about making view A. And yes, I would recommend it to others. This one is OOP though.

Conclusion: This is a classic jacket pattern with sleeve variations that can easily be used as a TNT pattern. Welt pockets can be added instead of the patch pocket or flap. So if you have it in your collection, give it a try.




Forgive the hem of my top. I was trying to show the finished hem of the jacket. It didn't show very well against the navy pants.

First Project of the Year! - McCall 5527


This is one of two jackets that I cut out before the holidays. I was able to finish both of them on Saturday afternoon. I wore this one to church on Sunday with a skirt I made (2 years old) from another McCall's pattern. Here's my review.

Pattern Description: Semi-fitted, lined jacket has front and back darts, single button closure and sleeve and collar variations.

Pattern Sizing: Sizes 6 - 20. I made a 14 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Pretty much. The jacket on the model appears to be a couple inches longer than my version. Could be that she is petite.

Were the instructions easy to follow?Yes. Nothing difficult about them. I competely constructed the collar/lapel before attaching it to the shell. Then I attached the lining/facing. This is the process that I usually follow when making jackets/coats for a similar style.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked the design of the this jacket. The wide collar and lapel are what sold me. No dislikes.

Fabric Used: Wool Blend (loose basket weave pattern)purchased from JoAnn's Fabrics about two years ago.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I made several alterations:

FBA - A picture is worth a thousand words. So here are the photos of the FBA.


Front Lining and Front Facing


Jacket Front


Checking the modifications of the three front pattern pieces.


Making the FBA on this type a one piece front pattern was alittle tricky for me. I added bust darts instead of trying to rotate the add length at the side seam to the verticle dart below the bust line.




Broad Shoulder and Sway Back Adjustments

The drawing shows the collar resting about an inch beyond the top of the shoulder seam. I didn't think to increase the width of the lapel and collar to maintain the design.




On the Hanger

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I plan to, but I have soooo many jacket patterns that I want to try. So not now; maybe later.

Conclusion: Cute little jacket that was easy to make and can be worn over dresses or other coordinating separates.

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