Monday, October 20, 2008
Pants - Finding the Best Fit - Part I
Sewing has been an art practiced, shared and loved by many women in my family. My grandmother (father) sewed everything from drapes to coats to men's suits. The women on my mother's side garment sew too, but were especially keen on quiting. I started making Barbie doll clothes at age 10 and later started garment sewing at 12. The initial draw to garment sewing was out of necessarity because I was, back then, long, flat, and very thin. Everything RTW that was long enough looked like it was on a hanger. Two of my biggest challenges were understanding how to digest the pattern instructions and translate that understanding into a finished wearable garment using a sewing machine. In those days I had lots of help at arms length when I got stuck on a process. Thus, the start of my sewing journey.
In my early days of sewing, I only had to length sleeves, skirts, and pants. Today I am still long, but curvy, and thicker. As I mature, the uniqueness of my frame becomes more pronounced. Now, with each garment, there are adjustments to make it fit.
In August, I started inventorying my fall wardrobe trying to determine what I needed most. And that is pants. About half of what I own need some type of repair or are too worn period (clothes don't hold up as well as they used to). Because I wear them more in fall and winter, I decided to push a few pairs to the top of the list. But first the fit...,
Threads (January 2006) magazine published an article, "Adjusting Pants for Waist to Seat". This was an answer to my prays. My challenge has been sway back and adjusting the crotch area to the proper length to balance the front and back. This article considered the body space along with the length and curve of it. Perfect. From January 2006 to now I have used these guidelines to achieve a better fitting pants.