Thursday, March 28, 2024

Notes on a Pattern - Simplicity S9894 Part II

Hello Sewing Friends,

This is part 2 of fitting the corset of Simplicity S9894.  

I've made the second muslin.  It looks better.  With this muslin, I did the cup adjustments and lengthen the corset.  I wanted to see how it would look with those changes.  The upper front/neckline stands away from the body.  But a little tweaking can take care of that.

I will still raise the upper edge for more coverage, just a little.   And I'm thinking about adding boning to hold it in place.

Here are the second changes to the tissue pattern:

Stay tune.  part 3 coming soon!

Wednesday, March 27, 2024

Notes on a Pattern - Simplicity S9894

Hello Sewing Friends,

I've been working on multiple projects again. Lol.  This is not uncommon for a lot of us.  I’m pretty sure many of you are working on more than one thing.  

Anyway, today I’m starting a new series of posts for a new project, Simplicity S9894.  My focus is on the corset.  It can be used to mix and match with several different dress/skirt silhouettes. My desire is to get the very best possible fit.  

Luckily this pattern comes with multiple cup sizes to help make the full bust adjustment process a little less daunting. The pattern description follows:  Cropped corset top with bust cups has underwire for support. Skirt has a slightly lowered waist and is offered in two length variations. Top and skirt both have side zippers. Top has separate pattern pieces pattern for B, C, and D cup sizes for Miss and C, D, and DD cup sizes for Women.

Size: 10-12-14-16-18, 20W-22W-24W-26W-28W

I started my project with using size 18/Cup D.  Hoping that the bigger size would help me have an easier time fitting the bust.  But that wasn't the answer.  For my first muslin, size 18 was too large with a cup size that needed some work.  The finished garment measurement is spot on as far as what is indicated on the pattern.  So, I scaled back to a size 16 for the best fit around my body.

After that change, I was able to address the fit of the cup size.  I used my bra to help me determine the cup circumference.  

In the photo below see the blue marking that shows about where the wire in my bra cup corresponds with the shape of the corset.       

Note:  The muslin is not pretty especially on my dress form.

The shape of the cup was the next thing to address.  There is too much fullness/length at the apex.  I needed to round out the apex a bit. The photo below illustrates the adjustment made to address the change in the cup shape.



This first muslin is too short for my taste.  So, I will add about 1.25” to the hem.  And to the upper edge, I will add between 1.50" to 1" for a little more coverage.  

My planned pattern adjustment for the bust cup are below.  Of course, if you are planning to make this, your changes may be different.  I wanted to share my changes in hopes that it would help someone else work through the fitting process of this corset pattern.

The pink lines on the front and side front indicate the new curve line. Length extended.

The pink lines indicate the new edge of the bust cup. Width added to the circumference.

For the next muslin, I will address the cup size/shape and extend the length.

Happy Sewing!


Thursday, March 21, 2024

Classic Black Jumpsuit - Butterick B6658

Good afternoon Sewing Friends,

I'm happy to be posting a review of my classic black jumpsuit project.  Last month I made this jumpsuit to wear to the stage play,  "Living All Alone," the Phyllis Hyman story.  It's been awhile since I sewed anything for a specific occasion.


I used Butterick B6658 to make it.  This pattern comes in multiple size groupings  6 to 14 and 14 to 22.  So the pattern has a very large range of sizes that sewists can work with.    

The description is, per the website, is as follows:   Wrap dresses and surplice front jumpsuit with sash are fitted through bodice with built-on shawl collar, hook and bar waist closure, and sleeve and length variations. A: Purchased belt. B: Sash, shaped hem. Wrong side of fabric will show. C: Sash, purchased bias tape for armhole, slash pockets. No provisions provided for above waist or hip adjustments. Note: Separate pattern pieces are included for cup sizes A/B, C, D. 

I used size 16 with some modifications, mostly tweaks as I sewed the jumpsuit together.  Overall, my jumpsuit looks similar to the jumpsuit  drawing on the envelope.  I did lengthen the sleeves and the pant leg.  Those are the most visible changes that I made.  But everything else is pretty much the same as the drawing.  One note is that it fits slightly big across the back and along the sides.  I think I could have used size 14.  I had to take it in some through the sides and I made deeper darts.  These adjustments were all part of the "tweaking" that I did while sewing the jumpsuit together.

The instructions were typical, nothing confusing in them. 

My fabric came from JoAnn's Fabrics.  It is a medium double knit that has a dry hand and a crepe like texture on the right side and a neoprene texture on the  wrong side.  I loved the look and the movement of the fabric.  I wished JoAnn's carried more colors.  I only saw it in black.  This is a great fabric for pull-on pants and skirts as well as jackets.

This pattern has been in my collection for several years.  It is a classic design that is timeless.  That is one of the reasons I decided to buy it.  Another reason is that it has multiple cup sizes included.  With the multiple cup size patterns I'm always hoping to save a little prep time.  Luckily, I was spared the process of doing my typical FBA adjustments. My other likes are the princess seams and that the pattern has pants or skirt options.

I really don't have any dislikes.  Again a word of caution with the overall fit is that the sizing appears to be larger than normal.

My changes:

  • Lengthen the pants
  • Lengthen the sleeves - I really wanted 3/4 length sleeves, but I didn't have enough fabric.
  • Sway back adjustments
  • Tweaking throughout the side seams
  • Tweaking throughout the bust area
  • Shorten the crotch length by 1/2"
  • Adjustment of darts as I sewed

I was able to have an enjoyable sewing experience using the pattern and fabric.  Nothing fancy, just a classic comfort look for the theater.  Not sure if or when I would use this pattern again.  It is good to have classic patterns to choose from.  The bodice, pants, or skirt can be mixed or matched with other patterns to create a different look.  

I do recommend the pattern to others.  It is easy to sew.  

Happy Sewing!




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