Thursday, August 23, 2018

Rayon Challis Summer Dress - Hacked Dress Vogue 9260

I wore this dress to church on Sunday.  It's the forth of five projects I plan to complete for this month.

I mentioned that I would probably use Vogue 9260 again way back in June.  Lol  Isn't the summer going by super fast?  I actually thought I made the jumpsuit in July; but when I looked back in my archives, it was June 11 when I posted the review.  More on my initial review is here.

The top of the dress is made exactly like the original pattern, but the skirt of it is a easy, easy self drafted skirt.  With the remaining water colored challis, I decided to make a skirt.  So I cut it into two pieces (front and back).   Then with some black challis, I cut two more pieces  for the lower skirt.

Just a few wrinkles across the back.  Pictures taken after church on Sunday.

For the construction, I sewed the water colored challis together along the sides and gathered it to fit the bodice.  Next, I cut the black challis  the same width also sewing them together at the side to form a circle.  Next, I folded it in half with the wrong side facing.  Then I attached the lower skirt to the upper skirt.  No hem required as all edges are sewn together and serged.

A few wrinkles; pictures taken after church Sunday.

That's it.  Just a easy skirt attached to the bodice of the original pattern.

Happy Sewing!


Tuesday, August 21, 2018

Another Flock of Cranes - Simplicity 8014 - Hacked Little Summer Shirt

The flocking cranes continue.  I purchased enough of the crane cotton voile to make my darling daughter a shirt too.

I'm making her a dress, using Simplicity 8014.  So I decided to use the same pattern for a shirt.  This was a super easy pattern hack.  I simply cut the dress pattern the desired length for a button down shirt.  Simple.

My previous review of the dress really says it all as fair as the sewing process is concerned.  My only other changes for her shirt were a small FBA and I did French seams for the sleeve and side seams.  I used the short sleeve instead of the long one.

I came close to matching the cranes on the pocket to the ones on the shirt

So this shirt was easier to make than the dress, which had a lot of steps to finish the sleeve and cuff.

That's it.  Thanks for always stopping by!

Happy Sewing!

Monday, August 20, 2018

Summertime Gingham - Simplicity 8014

Sorry about the frowns- The sun was really high.

Happy Monday!

It's good to be able to work, play, sew and see the light of day.  We have about a month left of summer.  The leaves are already starting to fall from the trees.  It is very humid in the mid-west.  Good thing is the sun is bright and the temps are in the 80's during the day and 60's in the evening. Great weather for my new gingham cotton shirt dress.

This is one of the five projects I cut out to make in August.  With four sewn and one more to go.  I think I did all right for the month of August.  I'd planned to make something, well a few things gingham, since the spring.  This is the first; maybe I can squeeze one more in before the end of summer.

Simplicity 8014 has been on my "to make list" for over a year.  I finally made it!  The dress is relatively easy to sew.  I made view C - A-line dress with yoke, gathering at the bottom of back yoke, breast pockets, front button closure, in-seam pockets, long sleeves with cuffs and tabs.

The pattern is available in sizes 6 to 24.  It's a good basic shirt dress pattern.  I used size 16 with modifications. My finished dress looks very much like view C pictured on the pattern envelope.  In fact, I selected my fabric based on that illustration.

No confusing instructions. Most  of them I followed and some construction I changed.  Overall the was easy to make. The thing I liked most about the pattern is the style options for the shirt dress.  My other likes are:
  • tabs on the sleeve - I have the option of rolling up the sleeve and holding them in place on the hottest days.

  • yoke with back gathering - This is a nice detail that can be easy changed to a inverted pleat if you like.
  • collar stand - I prefer shirt dresses with collar and collar stand.  It just looks nicer.
  • pockets - breast pockets or in-seam pockets or both.  Options..,
  • cuff and continuous lap.  Nice finishing are always good.

My least favorite thing is the faux front placket.  For this pattern the placket an extension of the front dress, instead of a separate piece.  I like two separate pattern pieces.  It's feels sturdier. 

My fabric is from  Last month I ordered about six different colors with various size checks.  It's 100% cotton, the drape stands away from the body; it's on the crisp side before washing.  After washing it is softer though.

I made a several alterations/changes:

  • FBA - my usual, which increased the depth of the bust dart.  The pockets covers part of it.
  • Lengthen the dress by a few inches.
  • Lengthen the sleeves by an inch.
  • View C only has a collar stand; I added the collar.

  • Doubled the yoke.  I cut two yokes using the extra for self lining the other.  I didn't want any seams showing.  It's nicer this way.
  • No belt; I'll use a purchased belt instead.

  • I did some matching of the gingham plaid from piece to piece.  For the yoke and the collar stand, I cut them on the bias. I intended to do the same for the cuffs, but forgot to.  On the other areas of the dress I came pretty close to matching the plaids.  Incidentally, I used a white cotton for the in-seam pockets.

  • Sleeve - I made a french seam.  It looks nicer than the regular seam.

  • No broad shoulder adjustment - But I could use just a little more room
  • No swayback adjustment - Because I'm going to wear a belt with the dress.
There are options for other dresses with this pattern.  I like view A with short sleeves.  I will at least make that.  My next review will be a shirt I made for my daughter using view C.

This is a good basic shirt/shirt dress pattern that I believe other sewists will enjoy making.  I certainly did.

Next Review:  Shirt made for my daughter using Simplicity 8014, view C.

Happy Sewing!

Thursday, August 16, 2018

Navy, Red and White Crane Print Cotton Voile - Vogue 1247 Top

Cotton Voile is light weight and the perfect fabric to wear in the summer.  I purchased a few cotton voile to beef up my summer "easy wear" tops collection.  Today's review is on this Navy, Red, and White Crane Print Cotton Voile.  It's light weight and airy, easy to care for, and pretty.  It's available in three colorways.  Simply lovely and I had to have it.

In my previous post, I gave some details on the sewing process.  I used Vogue 1247, which is perfect for this top.  Those details are here.

On the sewing table now, is a shirt for my DD using this very same fabric.

I wanted to include a few pictures of the inside job of this top.  There are all french seams; no serging.

Happy Sewing!

Friday, August 10, 2018

Notes on a Pattern - Vogue 1247 Top

Vogue 1247 Top is very popular in the sewing community.  It is no surprise that hundreds of imagines of it are posted online in a variety of colors and textiles.  I'm sure my sewing experience is not very different from other sewists. 

I love sewing Vogue patterns.  There is almost always something interesting in the construction process.  This top has all french seams except for the neckband, sleeve band, and the hem.  French seams are not difficult to make.  But they do take a little more time than the average seaming.  Because for each section sewn there is two seams instead of one.  To make them effectively, you may need to trim the seam then press as you go.  The pressing is something that we, sewists, should do anyway.   This process helps to reinforce some basic sewing practices.  I love how the inside of this top looks with all french seams, no serging.

The entire construction process was great.  It took me about 2.5 hours to complete it all except for the hem.  This afternoon I finished that in a matter of minutes.  I did it the old school way.  First step, press the desired hem; second step turn and pin; finally sew the hem in place.  Perfect hemming.

Part of the lower half of the top is cut on the bias which helps reduced uneven turning of the clothe.  My fabric also helped.  Cotton voile with a smooth, semi-crisp hand.  It's very easy to work with.  If I make it again, I may choose a silky fabric. 

On another note..,

Recently, I purchased a set of specialized feet. There is one that can produced the same hem.  But instinctively, I just follow the method that I've used for years. 

I did make some minor adjustments to the tissue pattern before cutting into my fashion fabric.  I didn't like the wide neckline.  I already have broad shoulder.   So I narrowed the neckline by raising the back about an inch and the front about the same.  I did not make a FBA.  This top is super loose.   At the front neckline a small tuck is needed to help reduce any gapping that may occur.  Finally, I did a small swayback tuck across the lower back.  I was glad it already had a center back seam.  If I make it again, I will lengthen the top by a few inches. 

The construction of the sleeve band, I sewed it on with the right facing the wrong side of the top.  Then fold it to the right side and stitched.  No other changes made.

That's it on the notes for this top.  I hope to post pictures of me wearing the top soon.  As for the skirt, I do like it and hope to make it soon.  

Stay tuned and happy sewing!

Tuesday, August 7, 2018

On The Sewing Table - Dresses and Shirts

It's August already!  I can't believe it.  I wish I could rewind time back to July.  There is so much summer sewing I need to do.

Anyway, today's post is about sewing project for August.  I'm always overly ambitious hoping to sew no less than ten garments per month.  These days I'm lucky to finish four.  Last week I gathered up about fifteen potential projects only to cut out three dresses and two tops (one for DD).  The goal was to cut more, but I decided it was best to stop with this first batch.

Ready to sew:

  • Vogue 1247 Top for me, red, white, and blue crane fabric; it's almost finished.  Blog post soon.
  • Simplicity 8014, View C for me, blue and white gingham.
  • Simplicity 8014, View C (shorten for a shirt) for DD, red, white, and blue crane fabric.
  •  McCall 6116 lavender linen blend for me.
  • Vogue 9260  hacking a dress out of it.

Parting Shots:  This is one of two garments made in July, McCall 7753 Top. Review and more pictures coming soon.

Stay tuned; more to come later this week.

Happy Sewing!


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