Sunday, July 29, 2018

Vogue 1314 - Dolce and Gabbana Floral Print Inspired Dress

Good evening everyone,

I hope everyone enjoyed their weekend.  It went by so quickly.  Anyway..,

This is another post about sewing with one of my favorite TNT patterns.  Last night I made another dress using Vogue 1314, the lining pattern front and back.  This is my favorite t-shirt TNT pattern.  To date I've made five dresses and two t-shirts.

Not bad for getting the most out of a pattern.  After I finished this floral edition, I think I better copy it onto some issue paper for a back up.  Tee Hee.

This project was quick and easy.  I had no fit issues to resolve. Sewing time was about 3.5 hours.  I used a knit from Fabricmart Fabric. It has a soft hand and very easy to work with. 

My inspiration for this version comes from one of my favorite fashion designers, Dolce & Gabbana.  I simply love the floral dresses, short and long.  The inspiration fashion is above.

I cut the sleeves at 3/4 length and added ruffles.  I also shorten the front and back by 4.5 inches and added a 10 inch ruffle.  No other changes except those that I normally make.  You can read about my other versions here.

That's all for now!

Happy Sewing,

Saturday, July 21, 2018

Simple Khaki Skirt - Olive Organic Cotton Twill and McCall 7392

I just wanted a simple Khaki skirt.  One I could wear with a light airy shirt (My shirt review is posted here.) on sunny days.  Mood has a huge inventory of organic twill, from hibiscus pink to sweet potato orange.  A wonderful selection to choose from.  I would like to buy them all.  But I picked this Olive Organic Cotton Twill for my khaki skirt.  The twill weave is tightly woven and sturdy.  I love the sheen and luster of the fabric.  The color is vibrant and the hand crisp.  Like other natural fiber, it presses well.

McCall 7392 was the perfect pattern for my project.  I made view C with the back pockets of view B.  I used size 14 with a few minor tweaks made during the sewing process.  The description is  semi-fitted skirt with front band and side-front and side back seams; top stitching, back pockets, and side front pockets; waistband, carriers, and stitched hem.  I used buttons instead of snaps.

I really like the style, length, and the pocket treatment.  I always enjoy sewing the top stitching of twill garments.  And the front band was a change from the normal back or side zipper.  For an added special touch, I Hong Kong finished the inside of the waistband.

The instruction easy; nothing confusing.  In fact, I only skimmed through them.

I really like this skirt.  I could see myself making the long version for fall.  I do recommend it.  The style line are good and give the sewist/designer more easy fit options.  It's great for a khaki skirt.

Parting Shot:  Pond at Verteran's Park.

Happy Sewing!

Friday, July 13, 2018

Notes on a Pattern - McCall 7753

Hi everyone,

This is another installment of Notes on a Pattern.  I hope these notes are helpful.  One thing I'd like to point out "again" is that I understand that we all are different shapes and sizes.  With that understanding, I also know that there are ladies that have a similar silhouette as I do.  The thing that motivates me to post my pattern adjustments is it may help someone with their own fit adjustments like so many other sewists have helped me.  Anyway..,

We are three weeks into summer, and it is hot and sticky in the mid-west.  And before we know it, it will be fall again.  So I'm trying to get as much summer sewing done as possible.  For the most part, I'm concentrating my efforts on separates: skirts, tops, and pants.  Of course, I will include a few dresses too. ;-)

Right now, I'm working on fitting McCall 7753 (among other things).  At first I thought I'd take a pass on this one.  Simply because it does not have princess seams, which would make it easier for me to do the FBA.  I can count on having to do some form of FBA for any upper body garment.  Initially, I got tired just thinking about what the possible fitting changes would be.  But about two weeks ago, I decided it won't be too bad.  So I purchased the pattern at a June JoAnn's pattern sale.

I could see myself wearing views A and B.

Looking at the front and back pattern pieces first, I made on the front a FBA.  I'm always skeptical about huge bust darts.  I hate that weird dimpling affect.  One option is to make two bust darts on each side, and the other options is to do the "Y" technique that extends the spread into the upper chest area.  Doing the later produces a smaller bust dart in my opinion.  After I made the FBA on both sides I moved the darts down about an inch and rotated them.  This adjustment created a lot of width across the lower bodice that I don't need.  So finally, I added waist darts.

For the back, I made a prominent shoulder blade adjustment.  To keep the back pattern balanced added the same width on the right side.  For the left side, I'll add a small shoulder dart and for the left side I'll ease in the access as needed.  Finally, I added waist darts.

Here are the pattern front and back after the adjustments.  Plus you can see markings indicating that I need to raise the top edge of the front about an inch.

The back will not have a horizontal seam.  I was running out of muslin.

Next Step - Make a Muslin

I sewed the muslin together.  As I suspected, there is slight gapping in the neckline, which can be eased.  I need to move the front waist darts over towards the center a bit.  And raise the armhole area of the left side.  I think these additional adjustments will complete the necessary changes for the front and back.

Now, I can make the adjustments on the front and back facings; then check the fit of the collar to make sure it's falls at the appropriate place on the neckline.  The construction is not difficult or confusing.  So, after these last few tweaks, I'll be ready to cut into my fashion fabric.

Happy Sewing!


Thursday, July 12, 2018

Simplicity 8601 - View A in Review

Simplicity 8601 is really a great little pattern.  I like all the views.  My first review is on view A.

The pattern is described as easy to sew pullover tops for misses feature tie waist and sleeve variations.  It comes in sizes 6 to 22.  I used size 16 with a few modifications.

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The top went together with no problems.  And there are no confusing instructions in the guide sheet.

I enjoyed making this top and am very pleased with the results.  I like the center front and back seams, the sleeve variations, the close fit of the neckline, and the tie.

The fabric I used is semi-sheer with a purple on purple polka-dot print woven into the fabric.   It's a polyester silky textile that I purchase in Poland in 2012.   It has lovely drape and falls very close to the body.

I made a small FBA following Sandra Betzina method from her "Fast Fit" book.  This method does not create a bust dart.  I cut the front and back on the bias.  This created some stretch across the body.  Special note: it also create stretch in the armhole.  So be careful when insert the sleeves.  The added flexibility made setting the sleeve easier.  But at the same time you don't want to distort the armhole.  Before hemming the top and sleeves, I hung it on my dress form for a few days to allow the bias cut of the top to settle.

The other small change that I made was to make loop for the button.

I am going to sew it again real soon and I recommend it to all level sewists.

It's cute and easy to sew.  A winner!

Happy Sewing,

Monday, July 9, 2018

Summertime Fun Skirt - Mood Exclusive Coffee and Cars Cotton Voile and 6326-C

This is such a fun skirt!   It's trendy, light and floaty.  Perfect for summertime.  When I first saw Mood's Coffee and Cars Cotton Voile, I simply had to have it.  I did not know what to make at first.  But it didn't take long to figure it out.

The online video clip suggest a blouse with a high weighted pair of shorts.  A shirt was a typical garment.  And that's usually cool with me.  But I decided to make a skirt.  Now, this fabrication is very light and transparent.  I lined it with a White Cotton Voile, also from Mood.  The two of the them together add body and modesty.

For my skirt, I used B6326, view C.  I used my usual size, lengthening it a few more inches.  I didn't make any other changes.  It was easy, easy, simple.  Nothing confusing or difficult in the construction.

I paired my  new skirt with one of my shirts from "The Shirt Project" (last year).  This is the first time posting pictures of the completed shirt.  It's also made with Mood fabric, Italian White Stretch Cotton Shirting.  Sorry it's no longer available at Mood.  There are many other options still available.

I used Vogue 8747 for three of my shirts.  Here is a link.

Sorry, no outside photos.  I did the photo shoot just as the sun was starting to set.  So I took the pictures inside.  And I forgot to  change my shoes.  Oops.  Anyway, the close-ups shows off this really cute print.  It's a winner.

Happy Sewing!

Sunday, July 8, 2018

New Summer Floral Maxi Dress - McCall 7775- View C

I'm pleased to post the second half of my review on McCall 7775-View C.  A few weeks ago, I shared my initial thoughts on this dress.  That post also included some fitting adjustments.  You can read about it here.  I thought I would finish my review a week earlier.  But I had a few hiccups that slowed down the completion of the final dress.  The first things was I didn't buy enough fabric. So I had to go back to the store.  After returning home, I got distracted and didn't get back to it for a few days.

I don't always make a muslin; but this project I thought it would be best to make one because of the neckline and the possibility of gapping along the upper bust and underarm areas.  Good call.  There was just a little gapping, about an inch on either side.  I pinned a little tuck in the muslin, took it off, and then measured the length from the shoulder seam to the side seam.  Finally, I marked where I wanted to ease in the access.  I also had to do a little easing on the facing; not as much though.  This adjustment gave me a snug fit.  Happiness..,

For this first dress, I purchased this floral tropical print from JoAnn's.  It is a rayon/polyester blend.  The hand is soft and it's floaty drape falls close to the body like most rayon.  It doesn't wrinkle as much a 100% rayon, and the polyester content may also help preserve it longer than 100% rayon.  Another thing I like about the fabric.

The construction of the twist can be a little tricky.  One of the illustrations is the opposite of what it should be.  The facing needs to be the reverse image of the dress.  See picture below. I decided to save sewing the side seams of the facing and dress for last.  That was easier for me.

Once I conquered the fit issues, the dress was pretty easy to sew together.  And I like it well enough to make it again.  So, you'll see another version of it soon. ;-)

Happy Sewing!


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