Saturday, September 11, 2021

Union Pattern Molly T-Shirt with Rhonda's Square Shoulder Sleeve Design

Today I'm sharing my fifth version of the Molly t-shirt.  This time I drafted Rhonda's Square Shoulder Sleeve design for the sleeve.  The pattern drafting was so easy and the finished sleeve turned out very well.    If you want to try drafting the sleeve, check here on Rhonda's blog.

There isn't much more to say about the process.  Rhonda's post gives you all the details on how to make it.  So there is no need for me to repeat it.

Sorry about the poor quality of the pictures.

Parting Shots:  This is the very first Molly T-Shirt that I made in 2019.

Monday, September 6, 2021

Notes On A Pattern - Vogue V1672


This is the bodice muslin of my next dress.  Usually, I only make the bodice of dresses because the upper body is where my fit challenges are.  Below the waist is a piece of cake to fit.  

My pattern of choice is Vogue V1672 and the fabric for it is from Mood Fabrics.  I purchased the fabric January 2020.  It's no longer available at their online store.  It's labelled as Italian Black Turkish Coffee and Harvest Gold Purse.  It's a cotton blend and has a soft hand.  I think it's perfect for a fall version of this dress.  

Here are my pattern fit adjustments.  I started with the usual full bust adjustment.  Then I created the muslin and tweaked it wear necessary.  In the picture above, I pinned along the upper princess seam between the side and front for a better fit.  For the back, I made the prominent shoulder adjustment/broad back adjustment.  A small dart was made at the shoulder seam.  The back waist dart is deepen as I only need more room across the upper back where my shoulder blades are.  Once I have tweaked the fit on the muslin, I adjusted the tissue pattern again to include the changes.  Now I'm ready to continue to the next step of cutting out the dress.

This dress is described as: Lined dress with fitted bodice, side seam pockets, back zipper, and sleeve variations.  It is available in two size groupings (4-14 and 14-22).

I love the mock wrap bodice and the FULL skirt.  I can not wait to start working with my fashion fabric.  Stay tuned.  I'm hoping to start the work on this one soon.

Happy Sewing!

Sunday, September 5, 2021

Another Butterick B6628 Top

I couldn't resist.  So I made another Butterick B6628- View A last week.  This time I used a viscose knit jersey from Minerva Fabrics.  Love the fabric and the top.  There is not much more to tell.  So this post is super short on the words.  I just wanted to share the latest version of this view.  It's a winner.

Happy Sewing!


Saturday, September 4, 2021

Last Summer Dress of 2021 - Butterick B6600

These past few weeks have been so hot and humid.  Goodness!  I'm so looking forward to fall.  But before I totally shift gears into fall/winter sewing, I wanted to finish the last summer project that was on the cutting table.

Butterick B6600 is a pattern that I've owned since 2018.  And this is the first time I've used it.  I purchased it for the "V" neck top/dress.  I could make ten of these.  

Anyway, here is my review:

Pattern Description: A, B, C: Close-fitting zip front jacket and pullover top and dress have length and sleeve variations. D: Jumpsuit (fitted through the bust), has encased elastic and tie at waist. E: Loose fitting wide leg pull-on pants have encased elastic and tie at waist.  For moderate stretch knits only.

Pattern Sizing:  This pattern is available in two size groupings. (XS-M and L-XXL). I used sized medium with modifications.  I actually graded up some where between a medium and large.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, my dress looks very much like the dress on the envelope.  View C falls above the knee on the model.  I added a few inches to the length.  So my dress falls mid-knee.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were very easy and typical.  I basically glanced over them.  I didn't see any thing difficult or confusing.  The steps that I paid attention to were for constructing the neck band.  It was important that I get it as close to perfect as possible.  Since it is a focal point and using contrasting ribbing brings more attention to it.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  Oh, I have a few likes for sure.  They are:
  • "V" neck 
  • Sort of A-line.
  • Great opportunity to use another stripe fabric in my stash. ;-)
  • Easy to sew.
No dislikes.

Fabric Used:  I purchased this knit from Fabricmart Fabrics earlier this summer.  I didn't know what I'd make out of it.  I just liked the red and white stripes.  When I received it, I immediately tossed it along with other fabric into the washer.  Then I dried it.  When I removed it from the dryer, it was softer and still had the same great recovery that it had before I washed it.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I made a few fit changes along with grading it up in a few areas.
  • Swayback adjustment and added a center back seam.
  • Added a few inches to the length.
  • The neck band was extremely long.  I reduced the length by two inches - pattern.  So that comes to a total of about four inches.  It may have been due to the ribbed knit that I used.
  • The placement of the bands on the sleeves.  Mine are a little closer together than view C on the envelope.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Oh yes,  I'll make the dress again and plan to make a top.  And yes, I do recommend this pattern.  As always, I checked social media to see if other sewists made any view of the pattern.  There were a few people who made the jumpsuit, who posted on Instagram.

Conclusion: I enjoyed making this t-shirt dress up.  It went together with no problem.  I recommend it to all levels of sewists.   

I was lucky my daughter was willing to take pictures of me wearing it the same morning I finished it.  So afterward, I thought I may as well keep it on, which I did. Tee hee.

So that's all for now.  A very simple t-shirt dress that turned out great.  

Happy Sewing!

Saturday, August 21, 2021

Butterick B6628 Top - Another New Top

This third pattern review is also a wearable muslin.  The fabric that I chose is a bit too heavy for the style of view A.  The little front tie is too stiff.  The drape of the front is not as fluid as the photographed top on the envelope.

Butterick's description is:  Close-fitting knit tops have neckline, sleeve and front variations with stitched hems.  A: Tie front, three-quarter sleeve.  B, C: Gathered wrap front.  B Elasticized three-quarter sleeve.  D:  Gathered wrap front with peplum.  No provision provided for above waist adjustments.  For moderate stretch knits only.  This pattern was published in 2018.  

I selected view A because I like the waist tie.  The other views have been published again and again.  Another thing I like about this pattern is that the back has a slightly curved back bodice with a center back seam, which is a little easier to adjust for a sway back.  My other fit adjustments were minimum.  

FBA - It might look a little intimidating.  But it was easy.  I simply added a bit to the front armhole and along the upper side seam.

FBA - For the front side.  Use the front bodice to mimic the FBA on the side front pattern.  I also drafted a neckband.  I hate the neckline finish:  turn, press seam allowance, and stitch.  My neckband measurements are 2" X 8.25" to be placed on the fold.

Swayback - tuck, a little more on the sides, and lengthen at the hem to balance it.

Aside from my small changes, the top was easy to sew, the instructions typical.  No problems. 

I'm going to give this one another try in a lighter knit.  Hopefully, the fabric will result in the drape illustrated on the pattern envelope.

There are a few versions of all the views on Instagram.  Check it out.  So is this is your style, give it a try.

Happy Sewing!


Friday, August 20, 2021

McCall's M8115 - Something New

This month, so far, I've made four new tops.  I'm in "need" of some new ones. Lol.  So I decided to try McCall M8115.  This is one of the newer patterns that also has a name, Sierra.  

The pattern is designed for woven fabrics.  But I decided to used a knit that I purchased at JoAnn's a few months ago.  I made this my wearable muslin.  This top helps me with fit adjustments for my woven fabric version. 

McCall's description is:  Pull-over dolman faux wrap top with hem variations.   It's available in sizes XS to XL.   I sewed View C using between sizes medium and large with a few other modifications.

My version looks similar to the photo and drawing.  The difference is I used a knit and the FBA resulted in a few gathers below the bust.  

The instructions were easy and the top went together with no problems.  I was able to sew it up in a few hours.

I like few of the design elements:
  • faux wrap - flattering on my figure type
  • flared lower bodice - also flattering on my figure type
  • Dolman sleeves
Nothing to dislike.

I made a few of my usual fit adjustments:
  • Sway back tuck, added length of tuck to the lower back to balance the hem.
  • FBA - Slashed and spread, soft gather of the lower edge of upper front bodice
  • Lengthen facing accordingly.
Now, I need to decide on a woven fabric for the second version. I do recommend this pattern to other sewists, all levels.

BTW - I didn't find any reviews on Pattern Review, and only a few people posted their versions on Instagram.  I guess this pattern is not a favorite or sewists haven't gotten around to making it yet.  Anyway, I think it is worth a try.  

More to come soon.  Happy Sewing, my friends!

Thursday, August 19, 2021

Minerva ITY Silky Knit - McCall M7812 and Simplicity S9147 Third Time Is A Charm

This is a showing of a new top and pair of pants using patterns I've used before.  Once I work out fit issues of a good wardrobe staple pattern, it's so easy to make it again and again.  Such is the case with both M7812 and S9147.

It's been a few years since I used McCall 7812.  Here is the link to my review.  Simplicity 9147 is a new release, and I've made a modified version of the pants three times in less than four months.  Link to initial review is here.  Both patterns are now a TNT (tried and true) for me.  

For my latest version of the top, I used a lovely ITY silky knit from Minerva Fabrics.  I love the bold print and the vibrant colors.  Perfect for my little blue and red wardrobe.  My slacks are made using a beautiful stretch woven that I got from Mood Fabrics several years ago.  It was originally slated for a dress, but I changed my mind. Lol.  I have enough left  for a vest, which I'll make later.  Both fabrics were pre-washed and dried before I cut into them.  

So here is to TNT's.  Which TNT's do you most often grab?  Please share. ;-)

Happy Sewing!  More to come.



Wednesday, August 18, 2021

Jump Starting My Fall Sewing - Simplicity S9222

Today, I was determine to post something.  Anything, in fact, about the sewing projects that I've completed in August.  So, after dinner I decided to start writing this post right away before something else distracted me.

My gardening injury has healed to the point of a slight soreness and numb at the tip of my finger near my fingernail.  Anyway, I'm now able the type out a post on the computer.

Carol's Dress

At the beginning of the month, I sewed Simplicity S9222.  It is a fairly new pattern and I haven't found many reviews on it.  Carol Crocker-Ware inspired me to try it when she posted her version on Facebook.  

So, here is my little review of Simplicity S9222.

Here's the description provided by Simplicity:  "Misses' knit dress with asymmetrical draped bodice; long or short flared skirt has three sleeve lengths.   I'd like to add that the neckline is finished with a neckband and that the bodice drape is created by horizontal pleats at the lower front and back bodice.

This pattern is available in two size groupings:  (6-14) and (16-24).  I used is 16 with almost no pattern adjustments.  Surprise!  Also, I have to admit that the sizing runs a little large.  Initially, I made a no dart FBA.  When I tried it on, there was just too much fabric throughout the bodice.  Especially,  in the front armhole area, the sides had to be taken in, and the center was hanging much lower than the rest of the bodice. Oh, I forgot to say, I didn't make a muslin. So, I ripped out all the affected seams and removed the excess.  Luckily, it was not difficult to readjust the width and length. In the end, my dress looks like the illustrations provided on the envelope. 

The instructions were typical.  Nothing difficult or confusing in them.  I made view C with a few minor changes in the construction.  The pleats were not deep enough for me.  So, instead of making them about 2.5" long, I made them about 5" long. I also added a few inches to the skirt as I have long legs and I wanted it to fall just below my knee.

What I liked most about the dress is the drape affect that the pleats make.  Additionally, the flare of the skirt and that the neckline is completed with a neckband.

My dislike are the length of the shoulder seams.  I don't understand why the Big-four add so much length as the size goes up.  It's almost always too much.  The fit of the sleeve was too loose.  But it's also that way on the model.  

My fabric definitely speaks fall.  I purchased it from Fabric Mart Fabrics earlier this summer.  It was on sale for about $4.99 per yard.  I bought four. It is a crepe knit with moderate stretch. I love the drape of it, and it wears well.

I don't think I will sew this pattern again because I have so many dress patterns to try.  But I do recommend it to others.  It is a fairly easy pattern and the sizing or ease is very forgiving.

This was a good project to jump start my Fall, 2021 sewing.  It was easy to sew with nice results.  I recommend it to all level sewists.  This dress can be worn by itself or with a nice jacket or cardigan. 

Parting Shot:  A silly photo taken after my little photo shoot.

Stay tune for more pattern reviews.  That's all for now, my Darlings!  


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