Saturday, July 10, 2021

Vogue V1786 -Minerva Navy and Black Jacquard Shirt

I'm happy to share photos of my latest make: Vogue V1786,  a new pattern from the spring 2021 collection. Loved how it turned out. 

Here is a link to my Minerva profile that contains the rest of my review. The previous post included the details on the pattern adjustments. 

Happy Sewing!


Thursday, July 8, 2021

Notes On A Pattern - Vogue V1786

I haven't done a Notes on a Pattern in awhile.  I thought it would be good to share my struggle with this project.  Simply because this is a new pattern and I got carried away when I saw 46 inches as the finished width in the bust area for size medium.  I shouldn't have paid it any attention.  It is deceiving.

If you measure the circumference of the pattern pieces at the bust area, yes it is 46 inches.  But you need to look a little closer.  Once you form the buttonhole placket all of those "extra" inches disappear.  So the actual finished circumference at the full bust is far from 46 inches.  

This is what you actually have to work with minus side seam allowances

And this is where my troubles begin. Word to the wise.  Never go on automatic pilot.

I tried on my first version of the shirt: front, back, and yoke with finished button holes and all.  Guess what?  It did not fit. Ugh..,

Luckily, I had about a yard or so of the fabric left.  So I recut the front (dartless FBA) and the back yoke with a few more little tweaks.  Sewed it together again.  It was a good fit. Next, I checked the collar and collar stand.  They also needed to be recut (size large). After finishing the collar, I needed to tackle the upper sleeve because of the adjustments made to the front and tweaks to the back yoke.  My suspicions were right.  I needed the upper sleeve to be a little larger.  Not so much in the cap but the lower armsyce.  No more fabric.  So I made a little insert (2") cut on the bias.  It worked.  Finally, for the lower sleeve and cuff, no change.  I just eased the excess in.

All of this extra tweaking and fitting because of one little finished measurement.  My bad for not analyzing the design of the pattern a little further.  So, lesson learned again. Lol. This one I should have made a muslin.  Oops I did. Lol

I'm so glad I had extra fabric and I was able to work out the fit issues without trashing the entire project.  

So that's my Notes on a Pattern.  The rest of the review is coming soon.

Happy Sewing!



Wednesday, July 7, 2021

Catching Up

 Good evening everyone,

This is the first time I've attempted to write a blog post since my accident with the hedge clippers.  I'll skip the details.  The good thing is I'm all right.  Anyway, I had a few potential blog posts that got derailed the day of my incident.  It does take forever to type out a post on my computer.  So for a while my posts will be abbreviated. 

I just made another blog anniversary. Fourteen years of blogging on July 4, 2021. It doesn't feel like fourteen years have past. 

Today I'm posting a photo from my first pattern review. I made the faux leather outfit with fabric purchased from Walmart. The second half of the picture is my most recent outfit made with fabric from Minerva Fabrics of the UK.. 

It has been a wonderful journey. I am so happy I chose to start blogging.  It has so many benefits. I seen growth in my ability;  an opportunity to share with others who love what I do; I've gained a host of new friends; I've had opportunities to share my knowledge with others as well as an opportunity to learn from some great sewists. These are just a few benefits.

In the coming days I'm hoping to publish a few short posts on some projects that were near completion or in the works. 

I found a Threads Magazine Youtube video titled, "Pattern Adjustment for a Full Bust Without a Dart."  Excellent tutorial and I used it for two projects that I will post soon.  

Initially, I was going to do my own tutorial based on my own measurements and projects.  But I decided not to "reinvent the wheel".   Posting Threads video is easier.  My reason for wanting a dartless FBA  is to maintain the original pattern design as much as possible and/or to use striped fabrics without disrupting the flow of the stripes with a dart.  I hope that makes sense.

My first project is Simplicity S9222.  I'm still working on this one.  The dartless FBA does not interfere with the drape of the top of the dress.  This is one I decided to make after seeing Carol Crocker-Ware's dress that she posted on Patternreview.  My dress is coming soon.  

The second project I used the dartless FBA on is Vogue V1786.  I love this shirt and think it is great in a striped fabric.  My July Minerva project is using this pattern and a navy/black jacquard.  The jacquard is double layered where the navy stripes appear.  On the reverse side of the navy, it is black, and the reverse side of the black is navy.  So you can use either side of the fabric. Early June, I made a medium blue pair of slacks to wear with this shirt using Simplicity S9147 again. 

This project is actually finished, but I want pictures of me wearing the outfit before I post my final review. ;-)

That's all for today.  Happy Sewing!



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