Friday, July 7, 2017

Bold Floral Are Always In Order - New Look 6184

There is nothing like a bold floral print.  Perfect complement to a fit and flare silhouette.  Summer time is a great time to show off a pretty floral dress.  In summer I want to look my best and be as comfortable as possible.   I really appreciate a cotton dress during this time of year.  Chicago and the surrounding areas are hot and steamy.

This is the first dress I finished this month.  I started on it about two weeks ago.  But did not hem it until Saturday night.    

I couldn't make up my mind on how long to make it.  So I cut the skirt tea length so I would have the options of keeping it long or making it shorter.  The skirt is self drafted if you want to call it that.  With the fabric being 60 inches wide, I just cut two rectangles the desired length.  Then cut one in half ( 2 back skirts) and used the other piece for the front skirt.  The skirt was gathered to fit the waist of the bodice.

Last year, I had planned to make a few dresses using New Look 6184, but I never got around to it.  So this year, it became a high priority to at least get one dress made using this pattern.  The C view of the bodice was already fitted.  So I was able to go right to cutting out the dress.

My fit changes:
  • FBA, with the new bust dart rotated into the neckline pleats.
  • Lengthen by 1" (front and back)
  • Sway back Adjustment
  • Prominent shoulder adjustment with a dart added to the neckline. 
I would described this dress as a fitted bodice with pleats at the neckline.  There are two skirt variations: one A-line and the other straight with two belt variations.

It comes in sizes 8 to 18.  I used size 14 with the list modifications above. Nothing difficult about the instructions or the sewing construction. 

Instead of using the neck facings, I lined the entire dress with a yellow broadcloth from JoAnn's.  To reduce bulk along the waistline, I used the A-line skirt for the lining.  With the lining, the dress has more body causing the skirt to fall a little further away from the body.  It also makes it opaque.   So no slip needed. The stretch floral cotton is from Vogue Fabrics. It is lightweight and has a smooth hand.  The only other change made was that  I used an invisible zipper instead of a regular one. 

I like the fit and flare style of this dress.  I love this silhouette in the summer especially.  The square neckline of view C is also appealing.  So, I think I may use this pattern one more time this summer with the slim skirt. 

This pattern offers nice options for spring/summer dresses and I recommend it to others.  The construction is easy.  The dress comes together quickly with any problems.

Happy Sewing!

Thursday, July 6, 2017

Blast from the Past - Paisley Sateen Shirting - McCall 7575

Sometimes, the "ole school" in me comes shining through.  Even in my fabric picking.  Remember, way back in January when I came to New York to visit with my sewing friends.  Our first stop on our fabric shopping spree was at Mood.    I bought two yards of this gorgeous paisley print sateen, and I knew exactly what I was going to make.

I was seriously, hoping that it was available at the online store and it is.  Appropriately named:  Pacific Green Paisley Printed on Corded Cotton Sateen.  It has a little stretch to it with a soft hand.  This colorful print is recommended for spring and summer garments, but I think it's also perfect for fall and early winter.  It can be layered with jackets and cardigans.

If you've been following on my blog, this shirt is part of a series of shirts that I am making.  The goal is to perfect my shirt making skills and to jazz it up a bit along the way.  You might find these posts of interests as well.

Lowering the Dart and FBA - McCall 7575

McCall 7575 - The First Edison

Mood Gold Stripes - Vogue 8747

For this shirt, I used McCall's 7575 again.  I will probably used this pattern a few more times over the course of the next few months.

This time around, I made view D with a collar, no tabs.  The only differences in this shirt is that it is longer, I didn't add an inch to the sleeve length, and I used a contrasting black sateen from my stash for the neckband, yoke, cuffs, and pockets.   The constructions process is virtually the same as detailed in my post "McCall 7575 - The First Edison".    

As I learn to make better shirts, my desire to use better fabrics as increased.   I've found that Mood has vast selection of shirting fabrics available online here.   And I kid you not, every fabric that I've purchased has be absolutely beautiful and great to work with.

So, if making your own shirts is on your list on sewing projects, take a look at the selection available at Mood.  The selection is huge and you are sure to find some great textiles for your projects.

Happy Sewing!

Tuesday, July 4, 2017

My Red and Black Circle Dress - McCall 7429

My sewing mojo is in full affect.  For weeks I've been happily sewing up a storm, cranking out garments so fast there isn't much time to photograph and post them.  Fortunately today, I was able to take pictures of three of my latest projects. 

This first dress was finished two days ago.  And let me tell you it was easy right up to making that little twist thing at the front waist.  Then, I was confused by how to make the twist.  I read the instructions three times.  But I did not get it until I just look at the drawings for steps 9, 10, and 11.  Pictures are definitely worth a thousand words.

Before I get ahead of myself, let me go back a few steps to provide some basic information about the pattern. 

McCall 7429 is described as:  Misses dresses:  close fitting, pullover dress has front twist detail at waist, sleeve and neckline variations.  It's comes in sizes 6 to 22.    This dress should be made with two-way stretch knits with about 40% stretch.

My dress is about the length of view B with sleeves and collar of view D.  But based on the diagram and the photo, my dress does look like the dressed on the envelope.

The instructions; typical and easy to follow, until the twist, as I mentioned before.  I recommend taking your time, lay the dress on a flat surface and follow the illustrations.

  • The twist at the waist
  • The front drape
  • The length options
  • The center back seam makes it easy to fit for a sway back

  • The back as that coffin effect, with only a seam down the center back.   I added a little belt to make it a little more interesting from the back view.  
I selected this pretty geometric red and black ITY knit print from Fabric Mart.  Love, love it.  I played Tetis with the pattern pieces trying to find the best way to utilizes the circle print.  The front of the dress is partially cut on the bias with the lower portion cut along the salvage.  Some areas were not straight on so there are a few areas were the pattern of the print is not perfectly matched.  But that's all right.  I think the dress turned out nicely.  I'm happy with the results.

No major fit adjustments.  I really took a chance on this fitting me.  I cut a size 16 making only a sway back adjustment.  

I will make this again, view D for fall/winter.  This is a figure flattering little frock and can be made up in about four hours.  At least for me that much time. 

If it is your style, try it.

Happy Sewing!

PS -  This is my ten year anniversary as a sewing blogger.  So Happy anniversary and I hope you continue to enjoy my blog.  Thank you!


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