Wednesday, December 16, 2020

Plaid Hat Vogue V8403 and Pants Simplicity S2315 To Match



The brown plaid pant suit is complete!  I actually finished the pants and hat almost two weeks ago.  The pants is Simplicity S2315.  I've used this pattern twice before.  So I won't review the pattern again.  You can read the initial review here. 

The hat is another view of Vogue 8403.  There was enough fabric leftover to make a hat.  So I did.  Lately, I'm trying to make use of as many remnants and scraps from previous projects.  I have a really tough time tossing out pieces that are a half yard or more.  


This hat was really fun to make.  I completed it while watching a Hallmark Christmas movie.  So, it took less than two hours to make.  I changed a few of the construction steps.  Nothing earth shaking.  It was a matter of taking my time with the stitching and pressing as needed.  



I enjoyed the process and will probably make at least one more view of this hat pattern.

Happy Sewing!


Monday, December 7, 2020

Simple Turtleneck top with a twist - S8750


I'm finally sharing this turtleneck top on my blog.  It has been a challenge for me to synchronize my Instagram posts with my blog posts.  I need to work on that. Lol  This top was completed early November.  Today, I want to share how I made the full bust adjustment for it.  This is my wearable muslin which I've ready worn a few times.  I do plan to make a few more during the winter season.

This pattern is part of the Simplicity Mimi G S8750 pattern.  My description: a turtleneck with one yoke shoulder and gathered upper chest.  That sound weird but I'm going to go with it.  Simplicity's description is just "knit top." It's is available in sizes 6 to 24.  I used 14 with modifications starting with grading it up a bit.

It looks like the drawing, and the instruction were typical.  Nothing confusing about them.  Pretty straight forward.

What I like about it is the gathers and the front yoke.  Everything else typical turtleneck design.  Nothing to dislike.  This is a simple staple knit top with a little something extra.

The fabric used is a cotton blend.  It was gifted to me.  A perfect textile to test my adjustments.

PLEASE NOTE - I made an adjustment right below the dart because I initially made the dart too low. So I cut a box around the dart and moved it up.

Usually, the first thing I like to address is the full bust adjustment.  For this top the front is drafted as the full front with the exception of the yoke.  Each side of the pattern requires a different FBA.  So, I cut it along the center front.  Then, I adjusted the left side.  The FBA created a dart. This was done by simply making a basic FBA.  Next, I slashed through the gather section on the right side from top to bottom  spreading it about 1.5 inches.   I used the right side to determine the amount of length to add.  Once both sides were adjusted, I taped them back together.  I had to true up the front with the back.  This was not done until the top was tried on and ready for hemming.  Next, the back adjustments. I added a center back seam and made a swayback adjustment. The final adjustment was to add a few inches to the sleeve. 

I used a twin needle to finish the hem.

Really basic and easy project.  I will get a lot of wear out of this top in the coming months.  I hope to make a few more.  I recommend this turtleneck to all level sewists. It's a great staple and good for layering during the colder months.

This is the third piece completed for my blue and red wardrobe capsule.  I was hoping to post about the vogue jacket, but I ran into a little hemming problem with it.  So, I'm still taking a break from it.  Hopefully, I'll work on it soon.

Anyway, this is a great staple to beef up your wardrobe.  It's an easy sew.  I made this top a little over an hour.  Try it.

Happy Sewing!


Thursday, December 3, 2020

Simplicity S8844 Mad About Plaid

This plaid blazer is part of my Brown/Cream Wardrobe Capsule.  (I know it probably seems like I'm all over the place.  But there is a method to my madness. Tee Hee.) Anyway, I've been wanted to sew more plaids this year.  And I was happy to be gifted this stretch plaid suiting from Minerva Fabrics.  When I first selected this fabric, I really didn't know which jacket I would make.  I wanted to choose a pattern that would complement the plaid.  Simplicity S8844 was one of three jackets that I'd plan to make before the end of the year.  

The pattern is described as Misses'/Miss petite unlined blazer with front variations with individual pattern pieces for B, C, D, and DD cup sizes.  It comes in sizes 6 through 24.

The princess seams and the individual cup sizes are what sold me.  My hoped the FBA pattern piece would only need tweaking.  So I used size 16, view A, with still a lot of modifications.  The changes included fit, construction, and design.

For the most part my jacket looked liked the one on the envelope.  The modelled jacket looks a little to full in the upper chest area though.  The instructions were typical.  I didn't see anything difficult in them.  Half of them I didn't follow because I changed a lot of the construction steps and techniques to suit my own preferences.

There were a few things that I like about it and a few things I didn't care for.  I'll start with the likes:

  • The separate pattern pieces for the cup sizes.  I wanted to spend less time adjusting the pattern. 
  • Princess seams.  Easier to adjustment
  • Gathered sleeve cap
  • Separate pattern pieces for the upper and lower collar
  • Separate pattern pieces for the front and front facing
  • Length of the shoulder seam.  I don't under stand why the pattern company makes them so long.  I removed about 1.75" from the end.
  • "Unlined" blazer.
  • One piece sleeve.  I prefer a two piece sleeve
My fabric choice is a stretch suiting from Minerva Fabrics.  It has a slightly coarse hand.  It sews and presses beautifully.  The plaid is Glenn plaid, I think.  It's uneven.  The matching of the plaid was a bit of a challenge.  I came close with the matching; it's not perfect but wearable. For the lining, I used an anti-static cream colored lining from Vogue Fabrics.  Nothing fancy.  I just pulled it from my stash.

I didn't have to make my usual FBA.  I was able to tweak the DD pattern to fit.  Then I made my usual swayback, prominent shoulder blades, and lengthening the sleeves. 

My other changes were more construction and style preference changes.  They are:
  • Lined the entire jacket
  • I made my own shoulder pads.  There was a hallow area between the upper chest and armpit area.  So I made them larger than the average pad.
  • I added hem facings to the sleeve.  This change was because I didn't add enough length to the sleeve.  This worked out fine.
  • Cut the pockets of the bias.  I love the weight of the interfaced patch pocket.  And I love the bias cut of them. It plays of the plain on the front of the jacket adding a little more interest to the style.
  • I sewed on the pocket after the jacket was assembled.
Note:  I need to move the button about 1/2" up.  The length of the front edge are the same.  I just need to move the button.  I noticed it after I saw the pictures.

I want to make this again soon.  But before that happens, I want to make a pair of pants.  I had enough fabric left.  So hopefully, I will share that project soon.  They are cut and ready to sew.

I recommend this pattern to all level sewists.  Make a muslin first.  I had to make two ;-)  It's important to test before you cut into your fashion fabric. 

Overall, I happy with how this jacket turned out.  It will be in high rotation.  The color looks great with red, and of course, brown.

This blazer is not difficult to sew, but there may be some adjustments needed.  Adding a lining was relatively easy to do.  I just used the jacket pattern pieces to do so.  The back facing looks much nicer with the entire jacket lined.

Until next time, happy sewing!

Wednesday, December 2, 2020

Pockets Simplicity S8844

I changed the construction of the patch pocket for my Simplicity S8844 jacket, view A.  The original pocket is unlined, but I chose to line them instead.  Also, I didn't want to try to match the plaid.  So I cut them on the bias.  

Here are the steps that I used to make the plaid on plaid patch pocket.

I interfaced them to help maintain the shape.. Using the pocket pattern I cut the lining 1.25" shorter than the pocket.

Next, I stitched the upper edge of the pocket to the lining leaving an opening. Pressed the seam allowance forwards the lining. 

I Sewed the lining to the pocket starting at the top, making sure the seam allowance is sewn 5/8" all the way around.  Note- For curved pockets, I sew one side halfway around, then flip it to sew the other side sewing slightly passed the end of the previous stitch. 

Next, I trimmed the seam allowance at the curve and notched the edge. Then, I turned the pocket to the right side, using a pointer creaser to make sure the pocket is completely turned out. While pressing I slightly rolled the pocket to the inside to help reduce the possibility of the lining showing on the outside.

Next I stitched the opening closed. Pressed again. Pinned the pocket in place. 

Next step, I usually base it in place and then machine sew.  That's it.

Happy Sewing!


Catching Up

My goodness!  It's been awhile since I did a blog post.  My intentions were to post a detailed post to support each sewing project Instagram post.  Didn't happen.., So now I'm playing catch up.

So sorry.  November has been really busy for me.  I wanted so much to have our traditional family gathering for Thanksgiving.  But weeks before we decide to follow the guidelines set by the CDC and other governmental officials.  I still cooked the major part of the meal.  We shared dishes and eat at our respective homes. Boring..,  My hope is that we have a better Christmas dinner.  But, right now it looks like we will celebrate with only the members of our household.

Anyway, I've completed several projects since my last post, and I wanted to share the details of those projects.  I would be remised if I didn't mention the Vogue jacket V8627 of my previous post.  I actually finished it; well almost finished it.  The hem is wonky.  I remade the lining and installed it a second time.  It still wasn't right.  So I put it aside to work on something else.  Now it is Christmas month and I have a few gifts to make.  So maybe after Christmas I'll pick it up again.  

Meanwhile, I want to blog about some successes.  They are: Simplicity S8750; McCall M7836-B; and Simplicity S8844-A.  I'll start with another jacket project.  There will be a few post about it starting with a mini tutorial about making the patch pocket for the jacket.

Happy Sewing!


Tuesday, November 10, 2020

Cozy Comfort During The Pandemic - McCall M7836

Like many in the sewing community, I find myself sewing more cozy, comfy garments. This shift maybe partly due to the Covid-19 pandemic that has rocked the world.  Other reasons for me are lifestyle changes and anticipated harsh winter.

A few weeks ago, I decided to try McCall 7836. This pattern has four lovely views, which I hope to try. These tops would great to wear with jeans, leggings,  skirts, and even tailored pants with a little modification. Lots of potential and easily a TNT.

My first top is view A. I chose to use a lightweight sweater knit from Vogue Fabrics.  I prewashed the fabrics, then tossed it into the dryer. The knit came from the dryer even softer than before, ready to layout my pattern and cut  out my mock turtleneck top.  This was another super easy project that went together no problems.  

I used sizes 14 and 16 modifying where needed. The upper top size 16 tapering below the bust ending at size 14 at the hem. No FBA, none of my other usual changes.  The fabric is so fluid and light with about 40 percent stretch. It is slightly transparent and does require a cami underneath.  For the hem, I used a twin needle. 

I noticed that the collar does not stand as pictured on the envelope.  This can be attributed to the lightness of the fabric. Also, I could cut the neckline size 14 for a closer fit.  I am pleased with how it turned out. Next version, I will add a few inches to the bottom for a more slender look. 

My likes: everything about the style and the easiness of making the top.

I recommend it to all level sewists.  



Saturday, November 7, 2020

An Audacious, Simple Sweater Dress - McCall M7979

Every once in awhile a lady needs to add an audacious garment to her wardrobe.  For me, a simple, easy pattern paired with a bold textile is a perfect combination for achieving this goal.  It's especially, gratifying when you can achieve it in less than two hours.  So here's my audacious dress!

I purchased the pattern about a year ago.  Almost immediately, I made a test garment out of a jersey snake print that I purchased from FabricMart Fabrics. My test proofed that this style looked pretty good on me given there was quite a bit of fabric in the upper part of the dress.  No need for any of my usual fit adjustments.  That put a smile on my face.  It's takes so much time to make the adjustments. 


What makes this dress standout is the audacious "Ziggin' and Zaggin'" sweater knit from Gorgeous Fabrics.  This was another fabric that I purchased for my birthday in September.  This fabric is super easy to sew.  It's cozy and bold.  Definitely, a statement piece anyway you design it.  

Anyway, today I want to give my review of McCall M7979.

McCall's description:  Misses': Tops and Tunic close-fitting, pullover top A, B or tunic C has  drop shoulder and low armhole and sleeve variations.  A, B: neckband C: Cowl collar.

The first thing I noticed about the description is "close-fitting".  It is only close fitting in the hip and upper thigh area.  They must have meant loose-fitting.  Anyway..,

I decided to make view C into a dress.  So, the only change I made was to lengthen the tunic by a few inches.  My idea for styling this view was to wear it as a dress as well as a tunic with leggings belted at the waist.

The pattern comes in sizes 8 to 24.  I used sizes 14 and 16.  For the most part, the dress looks like the tunic only a few inches longer.

The instruction and the construction were a piece of cake.  Nothing confusing as I just glance them.  The guide sheet included all the typical Palmer/Pletsch fit adjustments.  Again, I didn't need to make any.  There was also a construction technique for making the cowl with a twist.  I may try that on one of the top versions if I decide to make it again.

Initially, I thought it might look better if I added cuffs to the sleeves and a band to finish the hem.  But when I tried it on, I didn't like it.  So I removed them I made small hems.

I bought this pattern for view B. Then, I became interested in view C after I made my test top.  I like the drop sleeves and the cowl neck. No real dislike.

I may make it again.  And, I do recommend it to others.  

There is a lot of style ease in this pattern.  For most, there will be no need for complicated fit adjustments.  For me, it's was another quick and easy sewing project with great results and style.

Happy Sewing!


BTW  - I'm still working on Vogue 8627 jacket.  More on that later.  

Thursday, October 29, 2020

Notes On A Pattern - Vogue V8627 - Pattern Alterations

I decided to give Vogue 8627 a try.  This pattern has been in my collection for many years.  It is a very simple jacket.  The design lines are basic with an option to sew an asymmetric hem at the back of the jacket.  The front of the jacket has the bust dart rotated to the center front. I pondered how to make a full bust adjustment (FBA) and maintain the integrity of the style lines.  

Today I'm writing a Notes on a Pattern post to explain how I made the adjustments on the pattern to fit me. 

I started the process with just cutting my size, which was not included in this copy.  So I graded the size 14 up to size 16.  Next, I made a muslin just to see what types of changes were needed and to what degree those changes  would need to be made.  My "dream" was not to make a FBA.  HaHaHa.  Just holding the front jacket up to me, I could see that the bust dart needed to be lowered, the center front did not fall where it needed to, and the front waist dart was not in the same location as in the drawing.

I made a muslin using the pattern as is with the size graded up.  As I suspected, the front was too snug and the darts were in the wrong place.  So I definitely needed to make at least a FBA.

Caution - There are many changes to the front jacket.  It may look a mess.  But I'll try to clearly explain all of my adjustments.

Step 1 - I copied the front jacket just in case I "hacked" the pattern incorrectly.
Step 2 - On the copy, I first lowered the center front bust dart by 1".  The area is labelled #1.  This step was pretty painless once I figured out were to cut around the dart to move it down.  I did not want to cut into the area of the collar section.  You can see the slashes around the dart where I avoided the collar/neckline area.  Next, I filled in above where the dart was previously located.
Step 3 - Now, I could start the FBA.  First, I removed the sleeve so I could easily make the FBA.  See #2 slash from the waist up to the apex (which was also moved). The second FBA slash was through the bust dart and the third horizontal slash was made on the lower right side of the first FBA slash. I made a 1" FBA spreading each slash the appropriate amount of space, filling it in and taping it together. This adjustment changed the length and width of the front jacket. Next, the sleeve was reattached.  The FBA created an elongated triangle between the sleeve and the body of the jacket.  Now there is more space between the side of the bust and the arm. 
Step 4 - I didn't adjust the waist dart yet.  Usually that is done during the sewing process of the jacket or the second muslin.  
Step 5 - The sleeve is lengthen an inch or so. 

Below is a picture of the original front jacket placed on top of the adjusted front jacket to show the difference.

Step 6 - The next set of adjustments were made to the lower front and the front edge. These adjustments are made based on the width and length created on the front jacket.  

Step 7 - The final adjustment for the front of the jacket is on the collar.  Sometimes the fullness of the bust creates some gapping in the neckline.  I made a small tuck on the collar and the front jacket where the two are joined.  The small change reduces the possibility of a gapping neckline.

Step 8 - The prominent shoulder blade adjustment was made by slashing through the shoulder and waist darts, spreading the pattern  3/4".  And the sway back adjustment was made by creating a small horizontal tuck across the back as needed.  The added with is also made to the lower back.  The darts on both pieces are adjusted accordingly.  The back sleeve is also lengthen same as the front sleeve.

This ends my explanation of my pattern adjustments for this jacket.  Hopefully the next post will be the jacket reveal and my complete review of the project.  Until next time.

Happy Sewing!


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